Transmission cooler data and other other stuff

In this video he explains why. The transmission section starts at 4:08. When I get to 60K, (only at 900 now), it'll be drain and refill for me.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TevK-u3vkx4

 

Unless pan is removed, a drain and fill is the only way I would do mine. Flushes stir things up than do not need to be stirred.

 

Why do some people ask a question then ignore the answer? Why do people think everyone suggesting the same thing is hearsay? Why do people who ask a question about something they would like to confirm believe “their” opinion isn’t hearsay.

You can’t make this stuff up. Here you go….this is what you want to hear right? Go get a transmission flush at S&S transmissions in Groton, CT (eastern CT). End of thread!

 

Yep. I saw it a mile away a while ago. OP is gonna do whatever they want and this thread is a joke.

 

To be fair...
At 80K, he needs a full fluid replacement.
OP says he doesn't want to deal with ATF fumes. Fair enough...That leaves the dealer or a transmission shop; either one is going to likely use a machine, because it's quicker.
IMO...There is a distinction between a cleaning flush(detergent) and fluid exchange flush(old out/new in), both via machine. A cleaning flush is a bad idea... Fluid exchange is a maybe; depends on the shop(method, machine, knowledge, etc). That's why I provided a link to ATRA certified shops. While not a guarantee, it will increase the odds of having it done right.

The service manual instructs you to drain/refill three times with cycling procedure between each, for full fluid replacement. I have done it and found the ATF is adequately exchanged. OP could convince a shop to use this method, but he's probably going to pay shop time instead of a flat fee.

 

Great point that the service manual identifies the drain and refill BUT the OP has continuously accused our suggestion to follow the manual as hearsay.

 

So with a pan drop, how much fluid should I buy?
Is it ok to change from Toyota WS to aftermarket at this point?
75k miles at this point, might as well, eh?

 

The system’s capacity is 10.6 quarts.

Each drain and refill will be approximately 3.5 quarts. HOW MUCH of the old fluid you’d like to remove depends on the number of drains and refills. See below.

• The first drain replaces 3.5 of the total capacity of the 10.6 quarts which is about 33% replaced.
• The second drain of 3.5 quarts will remove about another 2.2 quarts of the old fluid giving you about a 54% replacement at this point.
• The third drain of 3.5 quarts will remove about another 1.6 quarts of the old fluid giving you about a 69% replacement at this point.
  
• The fourth drain of 3.5 quarts will remove about another 1.0 quart of the old fluid giving you about a 78% replacement at this point.
  
• The fifth drain of 3.5 quarts will remove about another 0.7 quarts of the old fluid giving you about a 85% replacement at this point.
  
• A sixth drain of 3.5 quarts will remove about another 0.25 quarts of the old fluid giving you about a 87% replacement at this point.

This means it will take 6 drains, or 21 quarts, to replace approximately 87% of the old fluid. This is precisely WHY I perform ONE drain and refill [4 quarts] every 20,000 miles. Doing it this early means fewer overall drains than otherwise needed to keep the transmission void of very old fluid.

 

It's threads like these that make me wish I opted for the manual transmission. (just drain and fill, no filters to deal with, no shifting gears or checking operating temps during the procedure either.)

 

Why do you think I ignored the answer? I asked for a good shop to do a flush and you gave one, thanks. You also supplied an opinion on the efficacy of a fluid flush, which I did not ask for. Also, if someone blames a fluid flush for failed part, but does no investigation into failure cause. That is hearsay, why did the part fail? Was it high wear? A plugged valve? They don't know unless they do a teardown of the transmission the find the cause, which they never do. And by flush I simply meant the remove of the old fluid, with the pump in the transmission and the addition of new fluid, no cleaning detergents involved. I also would like to try to go to a new fluid type, another reason for a flush instead of a drain and fill, as mixing fluid brands is bad. Ws is expensive and hard to find in a pinch.

 

Every place I talked to plus my Toyota dealer told me not to flush the trans even at 70k. They all recommended to drop the pan and do a regular service.

I have a place in West hartford CT that did my trans service on my 2nd gen at 70k. Dropped the pan. New filter, cleaned the magnets, new gasket etc. Cost me around 200 bucks. They also road tested the truck before and after and used their scanner to check for any transmission codes and make sure the trans was functioning correctly. Truck shifted so much better after the service.

Shoot me a PM if you want the shop info. I know how hard it can be to find a decent repair shop these days.

 

Oh, sorry. I didn’t make the connection of you ignoring the question/answer once you found the shop I recommended. I identified the shop in Post #44 and you continued to post with #48, 50, 52 and 56. Hmmmmm.

 

My 88 Mustang had two drain plugs. I went to a "Jiffy Lube" type place. They did not realize it had two drain plugs. I have changed my oil ever since.

 

You can mix WS with other fluids no problem.

 

The Car Care Nut has a great video on why you should not flush.

 

I was sold on the no flush thing after literally every shop I talked to advised against it including 2 Toyota dealers.

 

I keep posting cause I'm having two much fun.

 

I don't trust the dealer as far as I can throw it. Can't even torque a filter bowl right.

 

It’s too. Not to.