Transmission cooler data and other other stuff

two?

 

I wouldn’t ask because it wouldn’t be appropriate but I do wonder how you make a living or might it be government assistance.

 

I build jet engines. No joke

 

We were brothers. I did my time there then went to P&W Rocketdyne for the space shuttle main engines. I’m now at Sikorsky and am able to double-dip by collecting my UTC pension after the Lockheed sale. My guess now is Hr, IT, or Finance.

 

Shop floor sev tech now in xray inspection

 

Awesome

 

SHHH!!! Don't let them hear you say that... they will never shut up.
Give these manual guys an inch and they start their own thread...

 

You seem well informed, is Valvoline max life a suitable alternative to the ws fluid, or should i stick with the ws fliud?

 

A "good shop" doesn't do flushes, these are nothing but a high profit generating un-needed service, don't believe me then please point out where in your owners manual ii it shown to have your transmission flushed?

 

toyota also says its a sealed unit that needs no servicing. Fluid gets worn out even toyota says it doesn't.

 

I will say one thing about you. You ain’t got no quit.

 

Now i just wanna know about Valvoline maxlife, don't know how long its going to take to an answer.

 

So, at some point this week or maybe next weekend I will be installing an tru-Cool - Max LPD47391 transmission cooler. There will be pics and a brief how-to write up. I sure lots of people will tell me I did it wrong and how I should have done it. After that I will be replacing the transmission fluid. I would like a flush, as the previous posts indicate, and then tell you all how my transmission immediately exploded post flush. If a flush is to expensive, or to much wait time, I will do a more standard DIY repeat drain and fill to replace the fluid. May also replace fluid with Valvoline max life. Also with so pics and a brief right up because I will do that wrong as well I'm sure. Will try to include some before and after temps on the cooler install.

 

The lube guard fluid make the Toyota ws look cheap, but will consider it if the full replacement is done and not the drain/fill. I put a Tru cool cooler in my v6 rav4 for towing after reading your right up on them. Its a very informative right up and if I had friends that asked me about transmission coolers, I would divert them there.

 

Thanks. We’ll be looking forward to it. Don’t worry about the unlikely criticism. We are all here to learn and figure out how to accomplish our next project. The only thing I see as an issue is your continued misuse of the word to versus too, lol.

 

The truck is a 2016 double cab, with 83k miles. Temperature data on transmission taken with scan gauge 2. Outside air temp 22 degrees F. All temperatures in Fahrenheit. This is with an unpinned thermostat. I live in eastern CT, its hilly here not in the mountains by any means but its not flat, its always up or down. So there is a lot of shifting happening.
160 Degrees after minute 12 Mile drive. 20min stop, went to store, 147 degrees at the start of driving, 172 after a 9.5 mile drive, stop at gas station to fill up 170 degrees at the start and 176 degrees after 6 miles.
So now for my interpretation of the data. I've had the scan gauge plugged in for sometime and have noted the transmission temperature habits. I also have 2007 rav4 v6 with a Tru-Cool Max LPD4739 cooler that a took on a road tip through some mountains with the scan gauge. The rav4 is not made for towing so the shift/lockup points are quite bad, but the transmission stayed at about 150 degrees through the mountains while towing. One thing I nave noticed is that the rpms or engine load did not effect the transmission temps that much, they almost always stayed about 30 degrees cooler than the water temp, which make sense. The transmission fluid will always exit the radiator at the same temperature as the engine coolant, it will than enter the transmission cooler, which will drop the transmission fluid temperature a set amount, depending on the ambient temperature and the cooling capacity of the transmission cooler (in the case of the Tru-Cool Max LPD4739 this was 30 degrees). Any spike in the temperature of the transmission fluid, came not with and increase in engine load, but with an increase in engine coolant temperature. At steady climb up in the mountains and the water temp would creep up with the transmission fluid temps. Sitting in start and stop traffic with a lot of shifting would change it much less then you would expect, and what change I did see was more likely due to a loss of air flow over the cooler. So to sum up the cooler will only lower the temp from the 180 degrees that the radiator makes. The size of the cooler will determine the difference between the radiator temp and the transmission temp, unless you completely cut the radiator out of the cooling circuit. So why am I telling you this, well it has to do with the trucks transmission thermostat, the ones being sold with the tru cool kits. Should you pin it or not? I would say no to pinning it. That stuff about the rav4 was to show the relationship between the cooler and the radiator. The radiator doesn't just cool, it will heat up anything that is less then 180 degrees. As the fluid leaves the radiator it is 180 degrees, and after 12 miles of driving in hill areas the truck transmission was still only at 160 degrees. If the thermostat was pinned it would quickly reach 180 degrees with the engine, and the hotter the fluid gets the faster it breaks down. Now we need to bring in the TF2 temps. TF1 on the scan gauge is the temp of the fluid entering the transmission, tf2 is the temp at the torque converter, generally the hottest part of the transmission. TF2 temps spike quite high during shifts and in low gear, or any point the tc is unlocked. Temp spikes as high a 40 degrees are not uncommon and 220 degrees (180 plus the 40 degree spike) is to hot for most fluid to handle with out braking down. An unpinned thermostat will take much longer to reach that 180 degree point, even on hills with lots of the converter locking and unlocking. The spikes were always a consistent amount with 40 degrees being the highest. So what ever the operating temp is, it needs to be low enough to accommodate the spiking fluid temps in the tc. If you have a cooler, you still shouldn't need to pin the thermostat open. All pinning it open does is expose the fluid to the 180 degree radiator temps early. Even if your towing a big load, the second the fluid temp reaches 180 it will open like it was pinned.

 

TLDR don't pin your thermostat, tc temp spikes are bad and coolers are good

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...l-toyotas-write-up-with-many-pictures.526283/
This is gearcruncher's cooler thread, its very good, better than mine.

 

Ok so here its goes.
Parts
-Tru-Cool - Max LPD47391 kit (cooler)
-Spool of gates 3/8 transmission cooler line
-2 Midland 38-874 Brass Inverted Flare Male Swivel, 90 Degree Elbow
-Some SS m6 nuts, bolts, and washers.
-Toyota automatic transmission oil cooler tube part number 3290704060
-Some 1/8 aluminum stock
Some general notes. I went with this cooler kite because I dislike barb hose fittings, they really only have a sealing surface a the top of the barbs, and most hose clamps will only cover one of the barbs. That's not a lot of sealing, notice that hose clamp fitting on you car only have one barb, to help retain the hose, and then is smooth on the sealing surface. The cooler tube is for were the cooler line go through to the engine bay (in pictures), it needs a little support bracket that I made from the aluminum stock. Makes the install a lot cleaner at a spot were rubbing would be bad. I used SS hardware because I live in the salt belt, no need if you don't. If you do use SS hardware, you can't assemble it dry. SS is very prone to galling and needs some kind of lubrication.

First step, take off the grill. Its easy, there is 2 screws and 2 plastic push pins, then the whole thing pops off.

Second step, find some holes for the mounting brackets, I like to avoid drilling were possible. This prevents rust from getting a foot hold, But if drilling will give you a cleaner setup than go ahead and drill. Here are the holes I used.
Top Passenger side



Top Drivers side



Bottom passenger side



Bottom drives side, this was an unused threaded m6 hole.


After you pick the holes you have to fab up the brackets, here is how I did mine. The top 2 are in the pictures above
passenger side

drivers side


And the whole thing hanging loosely.

Make sure the grill will fit back on a this point.

Third step, route the cooler lines. Here is the cooler tube with its bracket, if you don't want to buy this you can just run the cooler lines through this same hole.


The Bottom cooler hose on the radiator is the the outflow one, this is the one you want going out to the cooler.


And then the want the outflow side of the transmission cooler to hookup here. This shot is from beneath the truck.

Once they are routed check to make sure they don't rub anywhere. The stock hose has a retaining clip and an anti chafe wrap that you can move to the new hose to help with this. Pop off a hose at the cooler and prefill it, this will only work if the inlets are on the top. If you can't you need to check the transmission fluid level after the you are done with the install.

Fourth step, make it all tight, and do the leak check. If there are no obvious leaks, put the grill back on and take drive to heat up the transmission. Keep checking for leaks every time you drive till your happy its not going to.

I will get some new temp data later in the week.