Gas mileage with 285/70/17’s

@aStrauss what app are you using? That’s beyond detailed. I know the truck itself has one but I really dislike the stock Head unit. @auskip07 & @Marshall R how much $ and do you think if I did calibrate my Speedo I’d get better mpg’s or just have a more accurate reading? I’ve tried playing with my psi seeing if I could get a little more gas out of it. I drive a shitload for work. 50/50 HW and city. I’ve been told I drive like a grandpa lol but if you end up behind me just know I’m trying to make this $50 I put in my tank last.

 

@macabo37 yea bro. My truck looks great and so will yours after the lift but be prepared to spend some money in gas. About $50 with Louisville KY ($3.19) gas prices twice a week but like I mentioned in my last post. I drive a litt more than 2k miles a month.

 

A KDMAX tune will greatly help your mileage. I don't have 285s but running 265/70s with a lift, TRD CAI and exhaust and getting about 2 mpg better than before on the same trip route to work. Around town I'm averaging about 20 plus.

 

265/75/16 actually corrected my speedo so no calibration needed. I check it with a GPS speed indicator on my Radar detector. I got 22mpg last week running from Atlanta to North Alabama around 170-180 miles. Anything above 20 is good.

 

285/65/18 here with a 3 inch around and the KDMax tune. It was 19-21 before and now its a solid 14.7mpg.

 

I confirm.

285/70r17 w/ 3" Ironman lift and I'm at 13-16.

Have e rated wildpeaks and a full size spare, but 5.29s and a tune will change all that. Don't really care about the loss. I care more about what the tranny and gears are doing, and they are suffering lol. Engine has no balls. So 5.29s and a tune then I'll be good to go.

 

Try the tune first befor the gears

 

Gears are going in before the tune. Already purchased.

 

oh snap post pics

 

Will do. No ETA yet.

 

Exactly. I notice 3-4 mpg difference beteeen summer and winter driving.

 

According to the data posted by Toyo for their AT2s their weight difference between 265s and 285s is only 16lbs per tire or 64lb total. I find it very interesting that only 64lbs will make that big of a difference on fuel milage. Been thinking about putting the 3inch ready lift with 285s but might have to reconsider.

 

It's a different size. More resistance. Also, you might want to edit that post and read the rules.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/code-of-conduct.709480/

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/political-threads.37177/

 

The surface area in contact with the friction force is not that much greater with a tire that is just taller. Have you ever tried to calculate the milage yourself using the odometer and do you think gears are going to help your fuel milage that much?

 

I have, and the 5.29's are not meant to help fuel mileage. Bigger tires need more rotation. Thus, you suffer in fuel mileage. Huge difference in both size and weight vs 265/70R16 stock tires. Even 265/70R17.

Have you ever seen this: 657 revolutions per minute vs 617 is why. Bigger tires have a higher rolling resistance than smaller tires which means they require more resistance and effort to get them rolling.

 

I think the final drive ratio with an auto and 5.29's are very similar to the manual and 4.30's. Highway mpgs should be similar too.

 

It'll be interesting to see if your rural mpgs with the auto are similar. I'm averaging 18.5 to 19 mpg on 55 mph roads in Michigan in cold temps with winter gas. Freeway mpgs drop around 1 to 2 mpg at 75 mph because of the final drive ratio.

 

It is, but tire size dependant again. There was a thread on here floating around about it, and I know it's probably covered in the thousands of pages on both the 4.88 and 5.29 threads, but good luck finding it lol. Not sure if you saw my post because I edited it, but if you have not seen the Tire Size Calculator, check it out. It's pretty close but load ratings can also slightly change things. For example, my E rated wildpeaks are 32.9" compared to the average wildpeak at 32.7". But the estimate is decent. Not sure if you are planning for rims too, but that's another factor. I did the math on my rims/tires.

My setup:
5x rims: 130#
5x tires: 295#
Total: 425#'s

Stock:
5x rims: 116# (They are 24# each but I knocked 4# off for the steelie on the spare)
5x tires: 175#
Total: 286#'s

Also keep in mind the lift components are slightly heavier than stock.

The real factor is the rotational mass, it's basically the weight difference except exponential. That's actually a lot of weight off of the wheels. Add in the added revolutions it takes and there goes your MPG's.

I average 15mpg where I live. Even stock it was maybe 17. That's just the roads I live on. Mountains, Winter, Wind. So I lost about 2mpg going up in tire size and lifting. I actually get better mpg's around town the way the roads are up here. I can get 16 maybe 16.5.

Lots of factors come into play here and this is also why so many people report different numbers. Also, 4.88's, 33's (and under) and a tune will get you some very decent MPG's for our taco's.

 

Im right at 290# for 4. 3" 6112/5160 lift. Running Nitro terra grappler g2's. 285/70/17 sl's. Around 45# each. Made a big difference in ride quality and mpgs. Learned my lesson with e rated tires around 20yrs ago. Unsprung wheel weight really hurts mpg and wheel hp.

 

Yea, unfortunately, every set of other rating tires I've had result in flats and punctures. Too much shit on the roads up here and while most the trails are not too bad, they are rocky. Good mention on the unsprung wheel weight. Lots of people think it can't make that much of a difference, but it's different than carrying the same weight in passengers. That's something I was trying to reiterate but I think I skipped.