Home Improvement Today?

What is emergency heat?

Also, in Florida; I really couldn't give a shit if the house had heat or not.



Forgive the newb, first house, my outside unit is probably just as old as the A coil and thermostat, everything seems to work well but if I upgrade the thermostat do I need to upgrade the A coil and outside condenser/evaporator?

Can everything be upgraded individually?

 

Looks like a heat pump set with the wiring… emergency heat is an electric strip heater that is used if something goes wrong or as back up heat….

 

Emergency heat is used is heat pump (air-to-air, water source, and geothermal) applications, not sure about others. When the system can't produce enough heat, a set of electric accessory coils heat up in the blower to supplement the lack of energy. From what I've been told, heat pumps don't like temps below freezing and temperature differences greater than 5 degrees; "emergency heat" may kick on in both instances.

HVAC tech has come a long way, it may be worth looking into a new system if yours is as old as that thermostat. The long term cost savings could be significant.

 

I'm really considering split units in each room like I had in Japan.

 

Installed 1 pallet of sod today, started feeling itchy. Took a shower now I am covered in hives.




Yard is looking better and it’s even mostly level! Only 8 yards of top soil later the yard now has a 1:30 pitch away from the slab. Crazy

 

Pictures of hives not displaying.

 

I need to replace the wax rings on my two toilets, would you guys bother with this or just get a traditional wax ring?

 

Traditional wax ring, no flange (horn). Just plain ol' wax.

 

It Depends.

Generally agree with D09

Butt, is your fecal floor ring recessed or level/above the final floor surface?

I have had assinine applications with the flange, like 3/4-1" below the floor. Pisses me off as eventually piss leak with just a single 1.99 wax ass ring.

 

Benadryl is your friend.

 

Need to replace this conduit body with a 4S box to accommodate two more wires. The stud is laying flat against the sheathing. How would you mount the new box? I was thinking just screw a 2x4 to the face and mount the box like normal.

 

These are through back mounting holes, just use 3/4" screws and go right into that 1"x#" board.

 

Why not use a deep octagon/square/whatever junction box and screw it to 2x4 that is there already?

 

I told my wife she has to lay the rest of the sod.

 

Can't believe I missed that. Thanks for the sanity check fellas.

 

Metal boxes also work... 4square etc.

 

Use a metal box with a metal cover.

 

Any finish carpenters in here?

I bought a 1970's craftsman home for Christmas and am getting ready to install a solid hickory floor (boards are acclimating). The previous owner... basically paid no attention to finishes. Home is gorgeous... but man did this guy not give a crap about fine detail. I have to re-do all of the window trim, re-texture some walls, re-finish exposed box beams because he got paint on them, etc. Anyway, I have this 70's style step-down from my dining area down into my living room. There's a janky edge I'm trying to figure out how to properly finish:


The plan is to put matching wood nosing on the step (it's 9 ft long) because that's just what you do, and then put a white riser board under the nosing to match the color we're painting the walls. Then I'll transition into a fully rectangular baseboard trim painted gray. I'll have to do a little drywall patch to fill the gap but that's not a big deal. My question is, how do I handle the exposed edge of the trim that's on my elevated dining area? I'll be ripping those baseboards out and replacing with rectangular boards, but should I put a tiny little miter on the exposed edge? Or just leave it as a box end.


Picky, I know, but I figured it's still worth asking about. I'll have to do the same for the other end of the wall/trim.