Home Improvement Today?

Door and trim installed today. Gonna take some work to get the 1x's looking good. I picked out the best treated boards I could find. Didn't need treated on all of it, but the boards looked better than the pine 1x4's. I wasn't splurging on the pre-primed. Those don't seem to hold up outside anyways. So, once they dry out I'll get a good coat of primer on them and fill/caulk as needed.

 

If your dining room baseboard has an ogee, then yes, a tiny miter instead of a boxed end would look better.

 

Okay, but if we use flat baseboards, then it would be okay to just keep it boxed? We're not a fan of baseboards with profile; it doesn't really match the house very well or our furniture choices.

 

What is your baseboard material? Are you ok with seeing end grain? How exactly "polished" do you want it to look? Do you want to go through all of the trouble to fix all that and then leave off one little detail?

 

All good things to consider! The baseboards are going to be painted a fairly dark gray (hints of blue), so any grain that would be exposed I guess would be completely covered. MDF seems like a logical choice since the wood won't be visible. With that in mind, I guess the question is whether a flat edge would be polished "enough" (no end grain showing) or if I should try to make a little self-return on a miter. I just don't want it to look like an afterthought if I lop the edge and leave it.

 

Garage looks good, may it stay forever clutter free lol

I know it’s sorta too late, you already installed the bottom trim like it was interior baseboard, but………
you need to bend up or purchase https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gibralt...derized-Steel-Z-Bar-Flashing-SZB34B/202092871 some metal to flash the top edge of that trim then figure out a way to tuck it 3-4” up behind the siding. Unfortunately this is likely going to mean pulling the trim and cutting (then paint) the siding 3/8” above it’s top edge. Water’s gonna get in there for sure and have a hard time drying out the way you have it and rot/capillary spread moisture will occur, engineered wood or not.

 

Sounds like you answered your own question.

 

I vote miter

 

Yea, that was a pretty big oversight by me, you're absolutely correct. I (well at the time hired out, was young and didn't know how to do anything) enclosed my carport at my old house in Mississippi the same way. It seemed to hold up pretty well. I did keep on top of the caulking and paint though. Got about the same amount of rain as we do here. When prices come down I want to change the siding out anyways to a cement ship lap style. This is a quick budget minded job.

 

Sounds good
I went with the LP lap siding over the hardi/cement option
Everything about it is easier to work with and if you install it right with good drainage/drying pathways there should be no difference in longevity

 

For the time being I'll be using Dynaflex 230 to seal everything up. It holds up a lot better than your typical painters caulk. Gotta give the treated wood about a month to dry out before I sand, oil prime, caulk, and paint everything. Unfortunately there will be bouts of rain till then, but it is what it is...

 

Made a little more progress today trying to decide if I need one more row of the clear bins before I do one for parts/fastener organizers

 

Miter that corner.

 

Not much compared to some of y'all but I completed my very first home improvement project on my very first house, replaced the busted screen door handles so they don't creak and slam in the breeze and wake me up.

 

Okay I'll make a little self-return on there. I agree it would be cleaner. Give me a couple of weeks and we should be done. Thanks!

 

It might be nothing, but with that being an outside corner and especially by some steps that I assume would be somewhat high traffic, how resilient do y'all feel mdf trim would be to dings/kicks?
I'm a klutz that smacks into corners with my feet almost daily, and my kids have seemingly picked up that gene (yippee!), I just think that a solid wood baseboard would hold up a bit better. Even if it was just for that run, and ya switched back to MDF for the rest of the run, primed and painted should blend well.

That said, I 'assumed' in my thinking, so you know what that means...

 

That’s a good point! I don’t think it’ll be too big of an issue in that specific corner. There’s a pretty wide gap where the flow of traffic should go between my table and the kitchen entrance.


I think the biggest threat to that corner is the dog who’s bowls those are

The riser board should be solid wood, though, for sure.

 

haha awesome! Ya the previous pic made it look like it was a lot narrower. Somehow with a 6 or 8ft wide opening, I would still find a way to stub my pinky toe on that corner every other day... Anyone sell steel toed slippers?

 

Can't go wrong with Dynaflex 230

May I suggest using Arborcoat Stain or Superdeck Solid color stain for your trim unless you want a higher sheen than flat. Both will save you the priming step, easy to use/clean up and because it's deck rated it stands up very well on trim.

https://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-ca...atalog/bmaes/arborcoat-premium-exterior-stain
https://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/products/superdeck-solid-color-stain-250-voc

Great job on your garage

 

Does anyone have suggestion for storage/organization totes or boxes for garage/basement use?

I'm going to put some garage shelving in my small basement, and I want to put stuff in some kind of box or tote, to protect all the stuff from getting dirty and dusty. It'll be mostly stuff I don't need very often. It's currently taking up space in a bedroom that needs to become a nursery.