Ironman 4x4 Foam Cell Pro

I think you’re on the right track. This is a great lift and they have had great customer service. They are getting bigger in the US as well.
I was in the same boat as you. Minus already having the JBAs. I had decided on the billies until I looked more into IM. Being able to rebuild them at home if needed, put them at the top of my list.
I went with SPC to avoid the color combo lol. Now, you could have the springs or UCAs painted. There have been a few people here that had the coils powder coated, I’m pretty sure @the.shelbysaurus had gotten hers painted. You could also paint them with rattle can suspension paint.

 

Right track as in going with performance 2.5” front and performance rear or going with IM or both lol?
Hmm painting I like the sound of that but my eagerness to install the lift immediately doesn’t lol

 

Going with Ironman. Honestly, I would say performance 3” up front, that gives you the 720# springs and constant in the back. If the back ends up to high or stiff you can remove a leaf or two to lower it. They’re the same price as the performance. I would have done that if I knew before hand even though I’ll probably never have enough weight to justify it.

 

Is this because the 720# gives you a smoother ride? Wondering if I can adjust the threads to bring the 720 back down to 2-2.5”.
Yeah I’m thinking about doing that with the rear. I was trying to search through the forum to see if anyone has any experience removes leaves from the constant one.

 

I searched a while back and Ironman said to remove leaves 5 & 7 to adjust if needed.

 

Yeah, the 827# springs are major overkill it seems. I think that there's actually just a spacer that gets added in somewhere? Some fine print somewhere had the details. If I were you though, I'd order the 2.5" performance and then email/call and have them swap out the springs for the 720# (TOY65A I believe?). Easier than trying to fuss with it yourself and they'll be pulling the individual components to build your kit anyway.

Also, yeah, like hyrule_trd said, I got my springs powder coated. I ordered un-assembled and it only took about a week for the PC. If you go that route be aware you'll need to buy top hats. IM sells them, but you could get cheaper ones.

 

The 720 will be smoother and less stiff. If you’re pairing with E rated tires, it’ll be a little stiff no matter what. With the weight on yours it probably won’t be that bad. IIRC, upgraded UCAs also add to the stiffness depending on the brand you choose. I think all the UCA bushings at the bolt are stiffer than OEM. I can’t be sure about that with the IM or JBAs though.
Yes, you can adjust the foam cells with 720# to 2-2.5” . The nitro set is not adjustable beside the different length springs.

 

Alright, does anyone here daily their truck with no sway bar here? just curious on pros/cons

 

I have for the last 13 years. The pro of it, some might say, is for better articulation off road when set up with aftermarket suspension. I took mine off when I upgraded to Camburg coil over and I’m currently running Ironman and never even thought about putting them back in. Keep in mind this is when I used to take my truck off roading. The con of it is body roll. I remember taking my first curve on the highway on my way home after taking off the sway bar and my reaction was “whoa!”. Now I don’t even remember what it was like driving with them on.

I’m sure there are other pro/con but those two seem to be the most common.

 

Been lurking this thread for awhile. Decided to go ironman yesterday. Wanted to give heads up to anyone looking that right now they have a sale on a "build package" for 2700 bucks.
That includes fcp stage 2, heavy skid plate, recovery kit, tire repair kit and normally 2 ditch lights and a37 inch light bar. Also the treds that come with orders. That's what the stage 2 alone costs so a very good deal. Now, the 37 inch light is out of stock so you'll notice that when you click the page, a pop-up will tell you you can call them and customize your kit. I called and John did that for me and sent an email link to me that lead to a cart with all that minus the light for 2675. They may even let you trade in the skid for sliders or something similar. Sliders are only for dclb by the way. I ordered last night and received
tracking info this morning.

 

Great info and welcome to the group!

 

Thanks Hyrule, can't wait to get it installed. My insurance replacement truck came with a 1 inch spacer in front.... Nothing in back....... Oh, and 285 70 17s.. Lol. So halfway there but that spacer deal burns my eyeballs to look at.

 

Been running no sway bar since I installed my IM suspension last summer.. There is a little more body roll but it's not that bad.

 

Was also a no sway bar dude for 20 years... Definitely more body roll on road but a huge leap in off road articulation... Never seemed so bad it was dangerous or anything just lil different at first. Easy way to check, just disconnect one side.. Try her out and see.

 

I made a trip to Ironman retail place yesterday. Something of note, on their taco wall, they had everything on display. The difference between their "performance leaf pack" and their "constant" was more than leaf count. Constant was thicker and appeared to be even slightly wider. Wish I had taken a pic but I am positive they are thicker individual leafs. Just something interesting I noticed. I doubt simply removing a few leafs gives you the exact same pack as the performance.

 

Thats pretty interesting to hear. I’d like to visit there one day but I’m pretty positive I’ll never be out that way.

 

Got around to lowering the coils a bit more today. Ended up lowering the spring seat about 1/4”. I think it’s right where it should have been and feels great. Sitting around 8.25” drivers side and 8.0” passenger side. I can go over the speed humps at 30-35 with not weird bounce back. Seems like I’ve gotten ride of the excessive preload cuse I can’t maths. I’ll have to make sure there are no driveline vibes but that’s after I’ve driven it for a few days and getting to highway speeds.
@Fletcher37 the ride feels great and my kid even said he noticed “it’s not as bumpy or fun as it used to be.”

I couldn’t use the IM tool with the spring under compression. I needed some type of extension on it and nothing in my garage worked. I think a 3/4 drive might fit in one of the holes but the largest I had was 1/2 and no adapter.

 

So what does that get your lift height to currently @hyrule_trd ? If I woulda known for sure a guy could unpreload their "a" springs to around 2 inches a lift I woulda gotten them for sure. They couldn't gimme a for certain answer on that.

Edit. So did you use a compressor to aid in adjusting then? I bought their beefy ass tool in hopes I could figure a way to adjust with just truck lifted on jack and at full droop.

 

I’m sitting about about 2.5” lift right now. I do have a front skid and sliders to help weigh it down a little. There looked to easily be enough room to go down at least .5” on the coil. I’ll get a pic of that tomorrow.

I adjusted while on the truck and under load. I think the tool would have worked better than the gedore in the products below if I had some type of extension. The gedore did work, I just took the jack stand handle and used that on the end.

I toyed around a lot with buying 650lbs coils to throw on there. One reason I didn’t is it would have needed either an adapter or to let the spring sit on the lock nut. I was not comfortable with that so opted with the IM spring.

 

I don't even know how much lift I have anymore. I've forgotten where I started when it was stock. What's the typical stock height (center of hub to bottom of the fender)?