Ride not very smooth

2011 Toyota Tacoma DCSB Off-Road...

I've been having some issues with my truck.. Worn tires, cupped tires. A popping sound in the front end when first backing up or pulling forward (intermittent). Front end wanting to "walk". And a roaring sound.

I used to have the RC spacer in the front to level out my truck. Which it did. I put them on several years ago. Rear leafs broke several years ago (after spacers). Replaced by me with skyjacker leafs. Raised the rear about an inch or so over stock. The rear has been higher again since doing that. Everything was good for a long time.

The noted issues have been going on for a several months. Here is what I have done fix the problems..
Replaced wheel bearings (orielly) Replaced CV axles (napa) . Replaced upper control arms (Freedom Off Road). Replaced Struts with Bilstein 5100's (highest setting and stock springs) and new tires. 265/70/16 General Grabber ATX. I've had General Grabber before. Work completed yesterday, over the past few months of course. Tires and Struts were last.

Now... All issues appear to fixed. Hopefully that popping sound too. Still up in the air about that. I don't hear it all of the time. Maybe I'm paranoid now. But I have one or two issues... still.

The ride is not as smooth as I had hoped or from what I remember how it used to be. I know its a truck, but it's not as smooth as our Durango or the in laws Expedition. Steering wheel does not shake. Alignment issues good. Tire balance is good. It's just a little rough. I'm not relaxed while driving. Today coming to work was the longest drive in it as work was done by 5pm yesterday.

In town or at low speeds, it's great. When I get to 55 mph. I can just feel it! Any idea appreciated. I have an idea myself, but would like to hear input first. Also. It's still a little low in the front. I need to take measurements today.

Thanks to all.

 

Did you remove the spacer lift when installing the 5100s?

You might want to look into replacing the coil spring up front with something taller and moving the retainer to the lowest setting.

When you say alignment is good, what are the alignment specs? Do you have the printout?

What's the load rating to the tires and how much air pressure are you running?

 

For the popping sound I would check your ball joints. As for the rough ride it could be the different setup you have for coil overs. It normally take 1,000 miles or so for them to settle. It all depends on the springs used and the preload. You could have to heavy of a spring that is not allowing the truck to cycle. I had an OME lift with 886 coils and went back to 885 coils to settle the front end.

 

I presume you had the LCA bushings and BJ's checked before all that suspension work? That's normally the cause of the popping noises and cupping tire wear you describe.

 

I don't have a alignment specs. Truck rides straight when letting go of the steering wheel.

Tires are General Grabber ATX. I'll need to check tire pressure.

5100's are at highest setting with stock coils. 124,000 miles on truck. I thought truck was sitting level now. Maybe not quite. I'll have to measure. I'm thinking this what is making it ride a little rough though.

 

I was told they were OK. I'll check again. Might just replace anyway.

 

For sure check them. The quick check is jacking it up and grabbing the tire at 12 & 6 then ensure you do not have movement. This can be misleading as you cannot duplicate the forces the truck puts on those parts. But if they are bad you normally have some play and that is a dead giveaway. If they are bad address it quickly, you do not want to be driving if one comes apart. Also, it can be a bear to change them. Most find it easiest to change the complete LCA with the new ball joints already pressed into them. You can remove them but you will need a shop or a large press to swap them out (the actual pressed in ball joint). And the part that can make this more frustrating is that a lot of times the cam bolts in the LCA get seized and they can take some time and some torches to remove. If you buy new LCA's i would recommend purchasing new alignment cam bolts to be installed with them as the ones you have might get destroyed tearing it apart. While you are in there you might want to pick up some aftermarket OME or another brand coils. You can get some that are a little longer to achieve the lift you want while lowering the tab on the shock. And with a weaker spring rate which will improve the ride.

If the ball joints check out and are good. The popping could be one of the springs tweaking in the spring perch due to the preload. Just take a look at all that. Good luck, you will get it figured out.

 

I will do as suggested. The pop was present before putting in the news Struts. Seems like as soon as I get it back from the shop, it's good, then starts again. After cv axles sound was gone, then came back within a day. Struts and tires yesterday. Sound gone. Just now backed out of my driveway. Heard the pop again.

As for tire pressure. It was 46+. Just drove 15 miles though. I backed it down to 36. I will check again when it cools down.

 

Check this.... Sway bar links. Popping sound and not so smooth ride? This is just the drivers side. Upper and lower are busted.

 

Yeah, holy crap, that's a lot of air pressure for our little trucks. I run 35 in front and 32 in back unless I'm hauling something heavy. Of course, the best pressure will vary depending on the tire but I think 36 is still a tad too high.

 

Thanks. I just checked it cold. I put pressures at 34.
Sway bar links are bad. Pretty sure I see a busted boot on lca balljoint. Possibly one on the tie rod end too.

 

Sounds like you're getting it sorted out.. but don't forget to check torque at the lower control arm cam bolts. Should be 100 lb/ft and it's easy to come up short if just tightening with a big box-end wrench. My trusty alignment guys stepped in the doo-doo once or twice and left them loose, I had a popping sound when I got it back

 

The popping noise can also be the bolts that hold the Lca to the frame are not torqued properly. Happened to me.

as far as tire pressure, I run 31-32 psi all around and have 30k on my tires and they are wearing out evenly. I have about 350lbs in the rear of the truck. Tire psi makes a huge difference. I used to have it at 38psi when I got the truck and didn’t like it at all. Hopefully your tires are not “E load”

also, the bilstein 5100 with the stock spring on the top setting is a rough ride. You put a lot of tension on the stock coils. Had the same set up in my 4Runner. I would suggest to get a ome 885 spring and put it on the lowest setting.

 

Thanks. I'm getting ready to replace lca's. Hopefully that will help too. I'm going to check on the 885 springs.

Also.. Is there anything to this "Tacoma Lean" that I've heard about? Are the coils left and right specific?

 

Hopefully it’s something simple.

no, the springs are the same. the Tacoma’s are heavier on the driver side. All the driving controls and the fuel tank are on the driver side. So some people are fine with it, some people like me, put a 1/8” or 1/4” spacer on the driver side strut. To level it out. I put a the 1/4” spacer on my truck and I’m still leaving 1/2” drivers side.

 

Taco lean is a thing but I wouldn't worry about it. I didn't make any adjustments for it.

Someone here took moving measurements and their truck leveled out when in motion.

 

Thanks everyone.

 

another thing to whoever sees this thread. just some more thoughts i have.

when shopping for suspension, look at what kind of valving it has. progressive valving or digressive valving. i wish i did my research on this before.

My 4runner, i went with the bilstein 5100. And now with my Tacoma i went with bilstein 6112/5160. I complained that the 4runner was stiff, so i got better struts for the tacoma but these are still "rough" as well. The bilstein and icon shocks are digressive shocks so they dont really do much at slow speeds and small bumps. But they absorb big bumps just fine. That does give you a more planted feel on the road so your truck wont be "floaty" or all over the place. Can take turns with out the truck having a lot of body roll. Much less nose dive under breaking.

Thats why a lot of people say kings and fox ride like a Cadillac or a cloud. They are progressive shocks. They absorb everything which makes them much more smoother over all the small ruts and bumps in the road. But....they are more sloppy on the road. How much more? I dont know.

I should of done more research before buying my set up, but i will wait untill my suspension goes out and then i will most likely buy the fox shocks. Just something for people to think about.

Have a coworker that just bought icon setup for his tundra and is complaining that he spend $3500 and its too stiff for him.