What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Ya, I've seen quite a few people talking about P0420 with no drivability issues. The truck was running completely fine, so I didn't trip out too much about it. Just don't like bullshit codes tripping my CEL, because if another code stacks on top of it, I might think it's just the BS code.

I guess as long as the CEL isn't flashing, I'm good...

 

X2 for bad cats. People always throw parts like the front AFR sensor and rear O2 sensor thinking its bad sensor, but its not. It's a catalyst inefficiency, the cats are bad/going bad and your down stream sensor is signaling that back to the ECU.

 

My current nemesis is P0770, malfunction of shift solenoid E.

 

Mine used to do this also. My theory is that it has something to do with very little to no load being on the engine for miles. It's always on after the turbo install now. CEL isn't important unless it's flashing. I check it occasionally. Actually I have torque tell me the codes when it connects to it. Kind of gets annoying sometimes especially when there are 3 or 4 codes for her to read.

 

Ceramic wax today. Sealant and carnauba wax tomorrow. Also planning on borrowing a throttle body from a fellow TW member tomorrow so I can send mine into MaxBore.

 

Good looking impulse red ride

 

a little wheel swaparoo.

 

Finally got some time to work on my truck. On the list of things the truck needs was a new antenna and I figured that would be a quick and easy start. Normally I'm a big fan of Toyota over-engineering but didn't expect I'd have to take half the truck apart to get the antenna out

 

I spy some Kendas! How do you like them? What size? I’m planning on getting those hopefully soon.

 

They are 265/70 R17 RT. I didn't pick them but have been pleasantly surprised by them. Bought the truck down in Miami and drove it back to Orlando, road noise wasn't bad at all and ride smoother than I would have thought. Running 33psi in them for road. Haven't played in the dirt with them yet.

 

it's the cats

 

lmao...

Just like every time someone says their truck over heated, it's the head gasket.

My wife actually reminded me that about 12 years ago, I had to replace an o2 sensor to pass smog.

I can guarantee that sensor wasn't OEM.

 

How did the antena turn out?

 

Still to be determined. Had to order a new one and still waiting for it to arrive so put the truck back together and will do it again when it arrives. On the positive side getting more familiar with trucks history. Found that a/c blower motor has been replaced and that rock lights were wired to the head unit so taking advantage to rewire them to rocker switch. Shout out to TW which reminded ne to run a string when I finally got the cable free of all the clips and pulled it.

 

I had that code on the runner. It was one of the cats. I don't remember what code I had on the Tank, but I swapped the spark plugs and it went away

 

Well, I haven't done anything yet, per-se, but this just showed up... Can't say I'm all that happy with the packaging or how long it took to arrive, but at least my existing housing has been going strong with the patch.

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Now to find some time to finish fabbing up everything that needs fabbing, and getting it mounted. Too bad I don't have a Zane-sized shop. @Speedytech7

A few questions I suppose while I'm posting...

1. For moving the rear diff over to the new housing - is that just a "bolt-in" process (with new sealant of course), or am I going to need to do adjustments/shimming/something?
2. I think that as far as alignment of the housing goes, that I want to get the truck at its normal resting height (as much as possible) and then get the rear drive shaft (and all the u-joints) to be as straight into the diff as possible, yes? As in, tilt it up so that the u-joints have as little angle as possible.
3. Once I have the orientation of the housing set, then I glue on the spring perches so they are level? Of should they tilt forward or back a bit to counter axle wrap?

 

If nothing else, it looks absolutely rad.

 

Diff should just bolt in as is... can glue or gasket it. I would take a measurement with the truck on the ground and see what angle your existing pinion flange is at, then set the new perches on the new axle and snug it up on the truck unwelded and knock it into position to match the pinion angle and lateral centering. Then tack

Depending on when you do it, you are always welcome in the new shop, but I'm not done moving things just yet.

 

Perfect timing for you to do a whole write up on the install before I get mine and have to do the same things

 

I would do a 'diff stud elimination' while you're at it.

I.E. on all the shorter studs, replace with a grade 10.9 button head run in from the back side. You'll need to reuse the longer studs around the elocker actuator. Use a normal bolt on the bottom as a drain as it looks like you don't have one anymore (good call).

There's a good picture somewhere about what angle you want your pinion to be at with our double carden driveshafts. Need to try to find it.