Anything welding

Decided to try a smaller cup, because in theory it should work better in a joint right?

 

6 x 12 utility trailer with foldable tail gate cut list:

Top rail- front: 1-79" 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" 14 guage (square tube)
45* both ends

Top rail- sides: 2- 148" 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" 14 guage (square tube)
45* 1 end

Side/front up rights: 11- 22" x 3" x 1 1/2" 14 guage ( rectangular tube)

Cross members: 6- 72" x 2" x 2" x 14 gauge (angle iron)

Tongue anchor/cross member: 1- 72" x 2" x 2" x 1/8" (rectangular tube)

Frame Sides142" 2" x 3" 14 guage (rectangular tube)

Frame ends 2- 76" 2" x 3" 14 guage (rectangular tube)

Tongue 1- 70" 2" x 3" 1/8" (rectangular tube)

Tongue angle braces:2 52" 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" 14 guage (square tube)
45* 1 end

Tail gate sides: 4- 79" 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" 14 guage (square tube)
45* both ends

Tail gate ends 4- 19" x 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" 14 guage (square tube)
45* both ends

Tail gate middle supports 4- 16" x 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" 14 guage (square tube)

tailgate ex. steel: 2- 18" x 77" (3/4" rough surface)

Fabricated fenders: 2- 12" x 48" 16 gauge (bent into a channel)

Here you go guys.

This was $780 in iron

$400 for tires wheels

$300 in lumber.

$250 for odds and ends

Edit: Forgot the axle and spring shackle kit $350

 

Do you build them per customer specs?

 

It's the only way I can make any money. A person can buy this trailer from a big box store cheaper than I can make one. Its the add ons where I can make it worth my time.

People seem to like these trailer. I lost count at the 200 mark. Been makeing about 10 to 2o per year for 25 years.

 

Those look nice!

I just weld on nuts to the ends of ours; keeps costs down but it does add a bit more work

 

My Go to is bead blast if that is an option!

Burn it off with a torch is another we used in the field . Then hit with the wire wheel on the grinder

Then experience counts I have no problem burning through paint while welding and getting a good weld it is that seam sealer that is far worse then paint.

 

Once you use Weld on Nuts you get spoiled !!

Then the weld on Female pipe nuts make building manifolds much easier.

 

Yesterday, different cup size and today, a different electrode.

Left half is with 2% lanthanated (blue), and right half is 2% thoriated (red).

 

If possible try some of the clear cups it makes seeing in tight corners easier

 

I may just have to buy some.

We only have cups 4 through 7, and none clear.

 

Some welders weld for years and have no need but school it can not hurt to try new things.

 

I use basically everything and the kitchen sink. Usually an angle grinder with a wire brush on it is my go to. I have 4.5" all the way up to 7" on the 4.5" grinder (those get sketchy lol). For super tight spaces I have an assorted wire brush set for my cordless drill. It can get messy but for heavy strip jobs I have used chemicals to strip the paint too.

I have never tried to burn through paint, but I assume if he wanted to try this he would still need a bare metal spot to start no?

Beautiful!

 

Thanks!

Just a newbie starting TIG.

Btw, regarding the welding on paint, just run stick. That'll burn through paint like nothing.

 

Push the weld when MIG welding helps getting a decent weld thu paint.

 

Of course you need to complete the circuit to start the arc no matter the process

 

Some people feel smaw is outdated and no reason to learn .

Then it just might be to hard a process .After all having to change electrodes can be hard work.

 

I'll often fab up my own ground.

I'll clamp a scrap piece of iron in my ground clamp, weld a 1/4" bead on the end then quickly touch the paint on the part needed welded. The hot melts thru the paint, then I'll tack that scrap iron to whatever is getting welded. Now I know I have quality ground.

 

Personally, I love stick welding and plan to keep it up on the side so I don't forget how to use it.

 

I've welded on the frame with stick before, I know I wasn't ever good with it but no thanks I'll stick with my Mig welder and .023 wire. Can't get slag pockets that way And that is afterall what the OP was asking about haha.

 

If you get the heat just right the slag will peel right off