TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

even if its 39$ id buy one. cheap insurance.

 

After shipping and all that, that's around what one of them costs. I think like $36 two would cost you $50 something.

 

What's he want for the Mk III?

 

Mine just showed up last week.

 

I'm curious that since there's two spacers for each of the pulleys could a joined spacer that fits tightly on the studs lend strength to them? Keep them from flexing in the middle?

Any engineers or machinist thoughts?
@XPOTRPR


@Athlaos I forget what type of engineer you are.

 

I’ll let you know shortly

 

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I want the sims and contemplating buying the headers/sims then selling the headers. He won’t just sell me the sims. However, if someone needs them because they are buying the headers I get it.

 

What type of idea are you proposing here? I know it's something regarding strength, but I can't picture what you are saying. Make a crude drawing so I can see and understand it better.

 

I think what he is saying if we had spacers where inner hole is a tighter fit on the stud, vs how it is now which its pretty easy to slide the spacers on/off.

 

If I got it right I'm actually understanding that he's saying to make a support for the middle of the two studs where the spacers between each of the two pulleys are.

 

Ohh I think you are right. Hmm I am not sure if that would help strengthen them or make it more weight for them to hold. It would certainly distribute the forces on both studs I think but I am no engineer

 

Instead of two spacers make more of a billet bar, possibly with round raised spots where the stud goes through if needed for clearance for the pulleys.

Don't know if the bar could be attached to the block somehow but tieing the two studs togethet with a snug fit may keep some wiggle down.

 

If you're going that far and replacing a bolt with a stud, why not build the spacer into the stud so that you put the inner pulley onto the stud and then install it, then you slide the next pulley onto the other side of the stud and then secure it with a nut or whatever.

Best yet would be to support the end of the stud in a double-shear style.

 

It would add weight yes, but if it's billet aluminum machining then it's sort of a moot issue.

It would keep wiggle down indeed and would solidify the setup, from the beginning of the block/ timing cover, to the middle of it with the bar and finally to the outside where the tensioner sits.

That would actually help relieve stress greatly from the entire thing because all of the action is happening in the middle, not the outside or the inside, so there is a greater chance of flex there.

 

Nothing would be getting replaced though? The only replacements here would be the spacers that are already there with a unification bar.

 

Here's a question for you guys, I haven't personally tried it yet or at all, but can you fit a 6303 bearing into a pulley that originally housed a 6203?

 

Hmmmm... I see what you're getting at. I think that would help for sure.. make them a little more rigid I suppose. My only concern would be do they need to flex individually by design for any reason? Otherwise.. I dont see why it would hurt anything.

 

Two isolated bolts break out of 10s of thousands and peeps freaking out and trying to reinvent the wheel

 

I see this side and I also see the side of how much did that damage cost. Nst crank pulley is like $180 ish, that lower pulley is ~$300 from toyota not sure how much superchargers online charges, plus the stud and in Roberto’s case the timing cover. I’m really curious if we couldn’t just support the tensioner in another place like how it uses a little bracket from the ac compressor. Maybe that could be beefed up or another one up higher.

 

There's not many of us running the rouch tensioner and it's happened twice. If it happens to one or two more guys over the next year then it's a thing.

My case wasn't nearly the ordeal of Robert's luckily.