TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

good but not good to hear. I was debating getting those but had heard some feedback of the axles not being as good and some boot issues. No use yet but following to see if they are a decent replacement or not.

 

For those who've installed the URD headers, any tips and how many hours should I expect for it. I'll be installing mine and the fuel pump in the next couple of weeks.

 

1 million hours.. . i have no idea. I need to install some shorty but I'm going to have someone else do that.

 

Seems like all the extreme toy crawlers love Napa. I just want my boots to not crack and fall apart. Ironically the inner red silicone boots are looking great. Go figure

 

Do the passenger side first. Get your confidence going then disconnect the steering shaft and it’s easy from there.

Make sure your tank is on E before tackling the fuel pump. Or you are going to have a long day

 

Yah the lifetime swaps are a bonus. I’ll have a +2 axles so the Napa Ones would not work.

 

Luckily in your circumstance they were able to make a sleeve to fit perfectly center in there for you to get it just right. This is like a wide open area with a very hard remainder of a stud jammed up in there. I can't think of any other way to remove it other than the welder/ nut method, but it seems like no one wants to undertake that method for some reason.

 

yah I def got lucky on that one. You just need some crazy SOB to pull out the welder and go. If I knew how to use mine id say lets go.

 

Shoot, if I had one I would probably give it a go myself. Lol. My buddy has one but the guy has not been answering. I don't know what happened to him.

 

Not sure if you tried this yet. Heat the stud as best you can & use some wax (beeswax or paraffin) or kroil? Let it cool down & try extracting.

 

The night before go and spray PB blaster on all the old nuts. Then again in the morning. That will help tons. If you have access to a lift I'd say use that for sure. It helps to be able to stand under truck at the perfect hight when you shove your arm deep into the bowels of the engine bay.
If the studs give you any trouble, use the double nut method to get them out. Tighten two nuts against each other as far down the stud as you can, then turn the bottom nut to the left and the stud will turn.
If you plan on removing the SAIS in the future, there is a single nut on the backside of the engine that holds the cross tube. Remove it while you're in there. Otherwise it gets buried when you have everything together.

 

I’m in the middle of a replacing bearings and my rotors seem to have a little play. Is this too excessive? I get That it’ll tighten up when the other in is in I’m the back of the housing I’m having trouble uploading a video. It seems to be 1/2 mm at the needle bearings side

 

Passenger side first, then the disconnect the steering shaft as stated. One last thing that made the drivers side a little easier was to loosen the bolts on the starter. That will allow it to wiggle and give it just enough play to have more room to slide the header into place.

 

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also, with this, disconnect the battery.

 

hmm...i didn't disconnect the steering shaft...probably would have made things a lot easier...well somewhat easier lol. that sais tube on the headers is what really made it complicated, to get at the top side screws

 

Do any of you guys have the 2 hps heater hoses installed. If so, can you share a pic……

 

+1 on this. I have it sitting waiting to go on. Doesn't look too hard to get on with the s/c installed. But thinking I need to go buy a pair of long needle nose plyers or something to make it easier.

 

Just want to double check, is this correct? Can’t find it anywhere

 

those clamps on the firewall connection are a bitch to get on and off. was getting pissed when I was putting my engine back in. the engine side probably not that fun with the engine installed

 

I want to see them installed to see how they look and to see where exactly they go