Magnuson Supercharger Mega Thread for 16+ Tacoma - Unboxing, Install DIY, Dyno Video

14.7 is a stoichiometric meaning it’s the mixture where all the fuel is consumed due to air and fuel being at the perfect ratio.

The stoichiometric ratio is not always the best for power, fuel efficiency or longevity. Some cars can cruise leaner than 16:1 for example.
For power 14.7:1 is never ideal in the real world due to several factors despite it being the theoretical most powerful ratio. That ratio leads to hotter combustion temps among other things. 12.5:1 at WOT is usually considered ideal for many engines. The richer mixture leads to faster ignition and increased cylinder pressures as well as a cooling effect from the unburnt fuel that protects against pinging and such.

engines with boost often need to enrichen the mixture even further beyond the 12.5:1 sweet spot to further increase the ping resistance. (The cooling effect makes preignition from hot spots less likely.)

 

Ahhhh that makes sense. Thanks for the explanations.

I just need to get my mind thinking in the right direction. When you say “enrichen the mixture even further beyond the 12.5 :1 sweet spot” my mind tells me that’s a larger number but richer means a smaller air number right?

So, at idle and cruising you’d see 14s?

 

Any idea where these are in stock right now? I'm feeling like an impulse buy

 

The first number is the number of parts air, the second number is number of parts fuel.

A number less than 14.7 is rich, a number greater than 14.7 is lean.

mziggy or formidable can tell you what a Tacoma sees at cruise. I spend enough time staring at AFR gauges on my race cars. I don’t want to know on my Tacoma lol. I just trust the tune.

On my 52 year old Opels I run 11.5:1 rich on startup, 12.8:1 rich at idle (it’s a reverse flow head with flow issues to the outer cylinders at idle so it needs a lot fuel to compensate).
15:1 lean at high vacuum partial throttle cruising.
Between 12:1 and 13:1 high rpm low vacuum cruising this is because at high rpm I have lots of mechanical advance. The evaporative cooling of the rich mixture keeps it from pinging.
At full throttle is we’re all the fun is though. My goal is 12.5:1 but I’m happy with anything between 11.8:1 and 12.8:1 within that range I have less than 2% change in HP on either side.

 

Try Underdog Racing.

They had them in stock when Magnuson was telling me 4 months.

 

Any updates on the automatic tunes? So stoked for this to come out just curious

 

After the dyno showed that we had more work to do on both transmissions, that's what I've been working on. I'm sorry about that, I know everyone's been waiting for quite some time. Unfortunately, these things happen.

As has been noted, the fueling tends to be uncooperative in stock form, and as @Formidable has noted, I don't want you guys sustaining 13's in boost. Doing so has a number of potentially bad consequences.

I've been testing multiple methods fueling, each with their own pros and cons. I think I'm settled on what I would like to do but either way, testing continues.

I don't just test in one climate or setting and then call it good either. Warm and cold weather testing is done simultaneously. @Double Down and @Doostur are a couple of the latest testers to come on board, in cold and warm weather climates respectively, to assist in additional testing. They've been very helpful with a number of tunes that deliberately experimented with some stuff that likely felt pointless to them, but the data is very valuable and helpful to the project.

@GoldenBrew has been ripping around on his favorite test tune to date in Colorado and even reported an honestly shocking 20mpg with his truck, although it should be noted that he has minimal mods on his truck, beyond the SC and his regear.

I believe, or hope, that soon we'll be done with this fuel BS and move on to final tune adjustments.

I do have to say that while I am not 100% certain about the answer on this since more observations may be required to say for sure, I believe I will commit to recommending that anyone who runs the YW FI tune OR the Magnuson tune to have their restrictor bolt installed.

 

Awesome!! I appreciate the update and look forward to running it when it’s ready!

 

Just a short video on idle after installing the jlt catch can.
https://youtu.be/GYBqvD6YlrU

Also, I have noticed my mpg has been down considerably, but I don't know if it's the winter blend, my driving style (aggressive) or what. I did read up on what formidable posted about the brass nipple. I may plug it back in just to see if that changes anything. I will say that at least the new tune update has everything smoothed out and the SC kicks in nicely in lower gears. IMHO

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...l-diy-dyno-video.693562/page-24#post-25456376

 

Hey, Ive got some hours towing while boosted.

 

Had the installation completed a little over a year ago and needed to update the software. Thanks to all for the great info, reassuring when you get going on a project for sure.

 

Just curious, what’s RSG charging for the install?

 

Anyone sc'd with 35s, whats your 0-60 time?

 

Probably about 90 seconds.

 

$1500, but I was almost twice that with all the bells and whistles (gauges, spark plugs, aftermarket front bumper adds to labor, etc)

 

Awesome, thanks! You happy with it so far?

 

There's a lot of questions about boost/vac and AFR gauges so I would throw out my setup for anyone thats looking for Boost/Vac,AFR in one gauge. I mounted the gauge in a Craven Speed mount and used 1 of the 2 gauge cups.

https://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/psb1.php
https://www.cravenspeed.com/the-flexpod-gauge-mount-for-toyota-tacoma-2016-2020/

 

Very. It drives awesome around town, even on the interstate uphill at 6,000 feet elevation. The real test will be fully loaded on a trip. Taking a week to camp at the end of this month, so will know for sure!

 

Thanks for sharing all that info guys. I literally just put my brass restrictor back in.