TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

You say "not man enough", I say I just like to keep my brain cells. Since having a 1966 Caprice in high school that I ended up always smelling like exhaust and unburned gas, I really hate the smell. In fact, I hate the smell of the Tacoma with fully stock exhaust and all cats at startup since it's so damn rich on cold startup with the TRD Tune.

 

IS500 yah or nah?

Not even 10k in and my RAV4 Prime is already giving me issues. I have absolutely 0 need for a big V8 compact sedan, especially more so after I move in 2 years but the car screams cool. I wanted the new Sequoia but after doing some uneducated guesstimating and comparing to the Tundra with the MAX drivetrain I’m going to assume it’ll be out of my price range.

 

I did on my truck. It wasn't bad though on cold starts you'd get a little smell. But once warmed up it was fine and you couldn't notice. This was with the factory 2nd cats and stock exhaust after the URD Headers btw.

 

I have dt lt and stock mid pipes/cats. I was catless, running the dt mid pipes, but it was pretty loud, even with the vibrant resonator. That I could stand, but my truck lives in an attached garage and the stinky fumes were just too much. Still a slight stink with mid cats and long tube, but not near as nauseous.

Eventually I want to do full custom from headers back, true dual exhaust like @12TRDTacoma but with downstream cats somewhere in there.

 

You know my pain. A couple weeks ago when the FJ was down, I had to drive the track car to work and at times it's a blast like go karting but mostly unbearable for anyone besides me. Had to tell my wife to close her eyes lol. And recently been noticing my startups getting richer on the FJ, even after fixing my coil problem (cats are probably ready to go). My UCON ems startups smell just as much.

So the OEM secondary cats? Was this on the stock y pipe? I'm just trying not to add more smells. It gets pretty awful now when stepping heavy on the skinny pedal with stock header/primary cats and stock Y. I know it's part of the game but I don't like smelling of fumes, getting out of the car Everytime I drive my car.

 

Slight stink is okay and on warm up is inevitable. I just don't like going into work or running an errand and smelling like a gas bath. I like the true dual idea. I think a 2-1 works for me with a Y like the DT. May just have to decide on a quality CARB EO cat and save some pennies for awhile.

 

I need to revisit this whole different than OE pulley that I have running on the lower idler right next to the crank pulley. I was thinking about it and if that pulley sees the most severe duty out of the bunch then wouldn't it make more sense to run a 6203 bearing over the larger 6303 bearing? The 6203 has a higher max RPM rating than the 6303 and if that's the case wouldn't you figure its better to run the smaller bearing over the larger?

 

I’m debating what to do. Have shorties and will hair use stock cats then castles Y and go from there. Maybe high flows if it’s too bad

 

I did jba long tubes and stock secondary cats. It was fine. There really wasn't much for excessive fumes.

 

freight harbor.

 

Much needed page 1 revisions and additions made. As always boys, to find something on page 1 fast, the search function in your web browser will help narrow down your scrolling time in finding what you need.

Provided are belt routing diagrams, new disclaimer on HD Roush tensioner for all members, lower supercharger idler part number, much needed info for the pulleyboys qwikchange pulley hub variant fitment discrepancies, HPS silicone radiator hoses link, and now the microblue ceramic bearing links.

I feel like I covered most of the bases here that I needed to add a long time ago, but for one reason or another couldn't roll in (most of the time forgetfulness).

Now if we could get a middle spacer/ center support tie in made for those pulley retention studs that @TodayWasTHeDaY proposed, I think we'd be absolutely bulletproof on our supercharger rolling assemblies and their retaining hardware.

 

Logic says the larger bearing will turn slower, right? Of course, we are talking a very small difference in diameter, so this is really a moot point.

I think you'd be safer running the bearing with the higher max RPM rating.

 

I

is500 would be fun. I’d get one

 

Damn frusturating how expensive cars have become. When I bought my 1st gen Tacoma it was $8500 and 5 years old. I've seen people asking $45k for a 5 year old 3rd gen. Thinking I'll dip my 2nd gen in a bucket of POR 15 so the body lasts as long as the drivetrain and be buried in it.

 

it is frustrating. but i feel very fortunate to have one of the best tacomas in my stable. realistic or not i wouldnt sell mine for less than 45k.

 

i agree. im going to give the ones @TRON has had great luck with next.

 

thanks for all your time building such helpful resources for us all.

 

@12TRDTacoma could we add the ceramic bearings to page 1 that @TRON is using. Thanks for all the work keeping page 1 updated.

These will replace the (4) 6303s and (1) 6203 needed when changing the bearings in the idler and tensioner pullies on the s/c belt drive.

https://www.microbluebearings.com/products/6303-Ceramic-Ball-Bearing.html

https://www.microbluebearings.com/products/6203-Ceramic-Ball-Bearing.html

 

That was exactly my thinking. I may wind up sticking with this 2.8" lower idler and just swap out the bearing in it for a Timken.

By next go around that these bearings are ready to explode, I'll switch to the Microblue ceramics. I'd be happy to pay a little more, but right now I need to keep this thing operable with locally obtainable items.

I'll pick up a set here within the next few months ready to press in for next time. I really need to invest in my own set snap ring pliers now instead of constantly borrowing them. Lol.

no problem at all good sir!

Thanks to you guys for being such a resourceful and helpful group. Everyone here has played a hand in contributing in some way, shape or form. Even the newer guys and that is awesome.

Yeah, we certainly can! I will add them shortly!

EDIT:

Added!

 

I would like to add the original install manual to page 1 as well. I know the PDF version of it exists and someone has shared it, or a link to it before. Would someone care to shoot it over my way so I can do so? Thanks in advance guys!