Rear fog light(s)

But it does blue too….

 

I would need safeguards to prevent my kids from punking me on that one...

 

HAHA. Well luckily it has 3 available presets. So theoretically you don't need a controller if you only use 3 settings. For my bike it would be red running light (30% power), red brake pop (flashes 3 times full power and goes to 70% steady on) and amber turn signal (100% power). But if it were my truck and depending on mounting position I think I would only use brake pop, amber turn signal and white/flood for additional reverse lights. Go back to page 5, I have links and videos from youtube.

We've all seen police car's lights and know exactly how bright/intense those lights are. They are made to get your attention no matter the weather condition and they are made to be extremely reliable. To my knowledge it is the only light that has 4 colors in one assembly that uses all the lenses for every color.

For the Feniex Quad they also have a recessed mount that wouldn't look nearly as bad.



https://www.feniex.com/surface-mount/quad#collapse42

 

There is this little gem too which I considered at one time too.

https://www.customdynamics.com/dual-color-run-brake-turn-plasma-rods

 

I think I remember something about “modes” now that you mention it. I did a little investigating on these, and they seemed pretty cool, but I didn’t do too deep of a dive. But having different modes activated by different trigger wires (I think that is how it said they work?) could be cool. I am just a sucker for lights that do stupid stuff . The surface mount could be cool too. My original intent with the VLED was to have it rear mounted behind a slot in the aluminum. But, since I am doing these with brute force and a router, that idea didn’t work too well .

Those are pretty cool too.

 

I've looked into those as well, no doubt they are awesome and sleek!! I think I have seen them on a couple HD's, didn't ask the owner but I was pretty sure it was those. Very few strip lights with red/amber out there that are that nice. But $179 for the 8" and even more for longer ones is a bit much for what it is in my opinion. I think the Feniex Quads would draw the eye more due to it's intensity and functions, plus similar end price at $99ea. While a brake flasher could be added to the Custom Dynamics strips, it adds more cost.

I appreciate the find!!

Ya I'm a sucker for lighting that has out of the box functions too! Hence why I got into retrofits.

There is also this option as well. Oznium makes a Red/Amber switchback strip and profile makes a "smoked" sleeve for their Profile LED strips that the Oznium strips could also fit into. The only thing I'm not fond of is the LED spacing on the Oznium strips. I prefer a tighter grouping that wouldn't look dotted so to speak. Ozmium also has controllers for the light strips as well. I've used some of their products in the past and they are great!!

https://www.oznium.com/flexible-led-strips/bi-color-strip

https://lightwerkz.net/collections/accessories/products/profile-superstrips

 

Houston we have a problem. This works as designed while on ACC power but as soon as you start the engine it shuts off almost instantly. Without the engine on I can shake all the connections and not even a flicker.

 

What circuit did you tie it into?

 

Front driver's side fog light.

 

Did you tap into the positive wire at the fog light or into the circuit using an Add-a-Fuse? Do you have a test light?

 

I tapped into both the positive and negative wires of the fog light itself. I do not have a test light but shouldn't need one since the front fog is still shining brightly.

 

How did you tap in? Did you use Scotch-Locks? The reason I ask is that as handy as they are, they're fairly unreliable.

As for the test light, you'll need one to determine where you have power and where you do not. Obviously you have power at the front fog, but where do you lose it heading back to the rear of the truck?

 

No scotch locks. Tapping the fog light isn't actually correct. The DD ford f150 fog light kit comes with a h10 to DT plug convertor. I replaced the DD plug with a Starkey products h10 to dual DT plug adapter. From there I used Ford Motorcraft non insulated crimp connectors with glue lined heat shrink for all the connections. Since my f150 doesn't have a key when I say ACC power it is actually the vehicle completely powered up without the engine running. I only lose power to the rear fog when I start the engine. When it is on under power without the engine on I can shake and wiggle the whole harness without so much as a flicker.

 

Used these. DT plug up front and another on the Hella rear fog.

 

Awesome! You definitely didn't cheap out on the wiring! That said, we still need to determine what's really happening. Even with the best products, installation techniques and intentions, sometimes weird things happen. That's where the test light comes in so handy because it allows one to find out exactly where you are losing power or ground. You can also use a Digital Volt Meter, but a test light is almost as good and a lot easier to use.

 

Went to Google and the first result was your thread on F150 forums. I saw this thread as well, wondering if you ground to frame instead of feeding ground back to the DT connector will help.

https://www.f150forum.com/f118/help-wiring-multiple-fog-lights-488525/

 

Or maybe thicker wire? Resistance could have an impact on voltage. Troubleshoot by connecting the rear light directly to the splitter?

 

Eliminated the switch and relay and rear fog stays on when truck is on. So we know wiring us good front to rear. I am going to try putting the rear fog and relay grounds to the frame. Might not be today though, my old body hurts from all the crawling around and kneeling yesterday

 

You could also ditch the relay. That rear fog doesn't draw anywhere near enough current to require a relay.

As for the old body hurting, apply alcohol.