CSF All Aluminum Performance Radiator For our trucks FINALLY!!!

Good question. I don't think an extra 4 psi of pressure will hurt, OEM is rated at 108 kpa which converts to 15psi. But, guess I'll take one for the team and find out for everyone

Edit, does the Tacoma heater core have plastic tanks? I've never have seen a Tacoma one in person. I know from the Fords I work on have always been aluminum

 

That drain plug looks waaaaaayyy better quality than the garbage one that was on my csf .

 

no beuno

My original intentions was to purchase a CSF radiator, then I heard about experiences with bad customer service here at TW and elsewhere. And after seeing you post this I said nope, I'll shop around for something else. Was going to go with AFE untill I heard a valid rumor that Mishimoto was joining the Tacoma Radiator game..

 

I have had this happen once before. So let's say hypothetically from the perspective of the manufacturer, the drain plug went in just fine. Then when you tried to pull it out, it galled all up.

In my case, I had just finished welding on an aluminum threaded flange for a threaded cap, for my radiator overflow tank(custom). It had just cooled down enough to hold. I threaded in the cap by hand, which was also aluminum. Anodized, if it matters or not. Unscrewed it, and rescrewed it to check that nothing was warped. Walked two houses down to show my neighbor. Tried to unscrew it......only a slight bit before bound up. And there I learned that it had galled up somehow. Had to twist it off in a vice and weld a new one on again.

Something related to the timing of the weld, to the insertion of the cap, caused that problem. May not be the same. May be. Someone reading this may know exactly what happened. I do not. Just that I not give it more time to cool, when messing with threaded aluminum pieces.

**edit** Just realized that I had already stated that. I will leave this explanation, as it has more detail.

 

You adding in an additional sensor too?

 

I would assume plastic tanks on both.
I had a problem with my Ranger overheating and they put a 16lb cap on. It ended up costing me both a heater core and a blown radiator. The radiator is supposed to control heat not act as a containment vessel for a nuclear power plant. At normal temps it shouldn’t need very much pressure overhead and we have an overflow for any excess. These high performance radiators should be able to keep things cooler without resorting to adding pressure. I’d recommend starting with an oem pressure rated cap and only going over that if necessary after confirming the heater core specs. I suppose an alternative would be to install a bypass valve to protect the heater since it isn’t needed in hot weather anyway. The AC is on different plumbing. Yet another switch for your bank of off-road switches.

 

I am, and also a trans temp gauge too. I want separate closed temperature monitors that doesn't rely on a APP/scan gauge. I don't trust the stock temp gauge.

 

If you do want to utilize the increased pressure the all aluminum radiator can withstand you need to address the shortcomings of the rest of the system or the next weakest link will leave you high and dry.

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...1488,heat+&+air+conditioning,heater+core,6864

 

Oem pressure is maybe 15-16 lbs, a TRD cap is 21. The aluminum Rockauto part is supposed to meet or exceed oem specs but I didn’t see any actual pressure rating. Up to you really but coolant systems are supposed to be low pressure so although bumping it will improve performance it comes with risk. The Ranger failure I mentioned happened well shy of 100k. I’d get a 16lb cap and carry the 19. Risk/reward. If you need the 19 all you’ve lost is what went into the overflow which isn’t really lost and you swap in the 19. If the 19 was too much you lost whatever broke plus the coolant that went with it.

 

That black looks nice. Id trade you for my AFE

 

As annoying as it is, heres a video showing the insides next to the heater core

 

I saw that one lastnight when l was looking for specs. Heater core replacement isn't in the copy of the online FSM that I have which is weird.
Our quick service dept has a whole pile of old evaps, condensers and heatercores in a corner. I see what they do daily. Dash and underdash work isn't for me. I'll stay in my dept doing motor rebuilds and swaps ..

How about a complete harness replacement on a Raptor due to excessive heat from the exhaust system. Harness was too damaged for any kind of wire repair.. One of the rare times that M time was allowed on a warranty ticket

 

Eesh. Needs some better shielding underneath....

 

I doubt there are many folks subscribed to this thread anymore, was more active back when the original CSF came out. But taking my chances... I'm looking for a Tacoma shroud, which someone might have removed when they installed the CSF for a FJ/4Runner.

I want to fit the shroud to my Tacoma CSF (thicker, leaves gaps around the edges) and seal it up and have it ready to go when I do a bunch of other things with the engine. Thanks.

 

I might have mine…..I honestly just don’t remember. If I do, it’ll be in one of 2 spots where I keep spare parts. If I have it, it’s yours, just cover the shipping.

 

is it smart to replace the radiator as preventative maintenance?

I replaced one on a friend's highlander at 140k (burst end tank) and saw one leak on a Jeep of similar year and miles

leaning towards CSF 3200, $90 on RockAuto
(6spd)

might be convenient to do while in there changing tstat, wp, pulleys, rad mounts bushing kit

 

I think this thread is about the aluminum radiator and not the $90 one

 

I get it. Figured it might not hurt to ask here first since many may be replacing theirs due to leaks or preventative maintenance.
Unless the truck is supercharged or overheating, spending $400-600+ on an all aluminum one seems like a waste of money/excessive

 

I think i spent $350 on the AFE one on a sale. Im not supercharged or overheating. I haven't put it in yet. Might be one of the few left subscribed to this thread