Motorcycles BS Thread 2.0

Dang, that sucks! Sorry to hear. Back in college I had a buddy selling his R6 and a guy came by with an envelope full of cash. Buddy let him take it for a test ride without opening the envelope and the dude never came back with the bike. Envelope was full of fake money.

 

I think my friends is a 2018?

My Africa Twin has cruise control. Its very nice, but I've never had anything like it before. Traction control, wheelie control, abs on/off, engine braking adjustment. And new its 14,400 + tax etc. i think its an awesome value.

I don't know much about the Triumphs though.

 

Lol that is true! There was a level of trust on both sides even though we only knew each other through here.

 

A few years back when Harley Davidson bikes were going for above MSRP and demand outstripped supply we had an instance here in York where someone replied to an ad offering a fairly new Harley for sale, lots of accessories, low miles, etc. Supposed buyer told seller they were a doctor at a local hospital and asked if they could bring bike by the hospital where they would be at work so they could check it out. Seller, assuming a doctor would be an honest person, agreed. Seller rode bike to hospital and texted said doctor to let them know they were there with the bike. "Doctor" wearing scrubs strolls out of the ER doors and begins conversation with seller, asking all the appropriate questions then asks if he can take a quick test ride. Seller agrees even lending the "doctor" his helmet. Doctor and bike were never seen again.

 

Side note - Even if you get a check, your bank deposits it and the funds are made available, there is a chance the check doesn’t clear and the bank takes the temporary credit back. This could happen because a new teller doesn’t notice red flags or because you didn’t give them enough information.

I will only take a cashiers check if it’s from my credit union or the the seller let’s me deposit and wait 5+ days before delivery of the bike.

 

That's what I have always been worried about and figured a cashier's check was safer than possible counterfeit cash. Although in retrospect getting a hold of that much passable looking counterfeit cash would probably be harder or more expensive than it's worth for a $3k bike.

The whole situation sucks and I'm pissed about the money but even more than that I'm upset that I didn't get to pass the bike on to someone that could use it to learn to ride and would appreciate the work I put into the thing. There's a good chance it just ended up getting stripped down for some of the good parts and then dumped. My wife found it listed on Offerup the next day but sent a message and then it immediately went sold and the profiles he had were deleted. So he knew we were on to him and probably decided to cut and run.

 

spring itch is in full swing so just checking in

@jgr81 love that Husqy. Love all their bikes lately.

and as for chains. I know they get power to the road really well, but makes me love the shafts all that much more. Wait, that came out wrong...

Just brought home another antique that I need to get road worthy ASAP. 60's on Sunday. I've got two for the bench but one, ironically the one with 103K on the odo, is turnkey and ready to go.


cheers gents.

 

How would that even work with selling it the next day? Would he even be able to sign over the title?

that really sucks though man.

 

Which is bullshit cuz its the definition of felony check fraud.

 

See also: me getting stuck at a stop sign on a hill yesterday and getting forced to learn hill starts to get myself home


Me to the 10 cars that suddenly decided to turn down my quiet street, and me awkwardly letting them pass me from a quarter mile out :

 

Lol this happened to me on my second day of riding. On the third attempt, I gave it too much gas and popped a very quick and short wheelie.

 

Your rear brake is your friend at stop signs, just get in the friction zone and start to ease up on the brake as you give a little throttle and you're golden. I think it is way easier than in a car since you can keep pressure on the brake while working the throttle and clutch.

 

Yeah, just a new thing to work on. I'll get it in time.

 

Or have a fancy bike with hill hold.

 

Coming from 2 manual cars to a bike was a big change in clutch thinking for me. Most motorcycles have wet clutches that you can reallllly drag through the friction zone vs. a standard car or truck's dry clutch where you typically want to release fully as soon as you can. Don't be afraid to rev it up high and slooooooowly release the clutch until you start going. It takes a lot of clutch abuse to hurt it doing that.

 

When I started to try riding a dirtbike for the first time years ago I didn't know anything about wet clutches and thought I wanted to release it as fast as possible just like a car. Almost lost the bike out from under me a few times when it grabbed and ran. It made the experience less than great and I didn't even want to ride again for years.

On the Duke 390 especially you need to give it more gas than you might think because it is setup from the factory to run very lean and it's easy to kill it if you aren't on the throttle.

 

Wondering how low I should let the center tread get before I'm in "sketchy" territory. Keeping in mind that, despite my fantasies of riding trails/fire roads every weekend, the vast majority of my mileage is going to be commuting back and forth to work (75 miles each day) until school lets out in mid-June...

 

When I did an off-road ADV class a few years back, one of the exercises we did was to do a short track/loop in 3rd gear as slow as we could. Gave my clutch hand a huge workout just modulating in the friction zone almost the entire time.

 

Yeah, def need to be a little higher in the revs. Im also used to car manuals, and aside from wet vs dry clutches, letting the clutch go at 4k RPMs in a car mindset seems insane, but thats where my 390 seems to like taking off from in first gear.

 

Haven’t ridden one but that seems way too high. I haven’t had to rev any of my bikes like that to get moving, just need to find the right combination of throttle roll and clutch release timing to go. For my bikes now that’s almost no throttle roll on while releasing the clutch on the 250L and a lot more throttle with a slower clutch on the 1250R. Neither one really goes much above the idle rpm before the clutch is fully released and bike is moving along.