Drive shaft just disconnected from rear axle due to failed u joint

Hello,

New guy here looking for some advice after the drive shaft disconnected from rear axle due to what appears to be a failed u joint (Pictures Included Below). I'm not a grease monkey, so forgive that i don't know all of the part names, but it appears that the needle bearings came off (I found one frozen into the ice where i usually park), and that led to a rough disconnect from the rear yoke.

I started to notice increasing shudder over the last 2 or 3 days, but i wrote it off to snow and ice throwing off the balance after running a few laps on a ice drifting course on my local lake (damn that was fun, and the Tacoma drifts pretty well in 4wd).

I found an older thread on hear that speaks to a coverage extension beyond 60,000 miles for fixing u joints that are causing shudder during acceleration, so i'm going to plead my case to the dealership. Being that a failure of the Spicer brand u joint has gone beyond a slight shudder (which hasn't been enough to bother me over the last year of driving) to a complete disconnection of the shaft. Can't see how they could deny me, of course hat doesn't mean they won't.

If denied, i would like to fix this myself, but I have some questions about the process. When switching out a drift shaft I guess you have to make marks on the shaft to maintain alignment. The forward side of the drive shaft is still connected, and i will mark for alignment if/when i disconnect to fix it.

Is alignment now lost with the rear differential with this type of disconnect, if yes, how would you go about realigning?

2011 Tacoma 4wd Access Cab (83000 miles)
Pics and Warranty Extension docs
Internal Email from Toyota to Dealers MC-10123422-9999.pdf
Service Technician Bulletin - MC-10146002-9999.pdf


Regards

 

That is worn out due to lack of grease. There is no dealer that is going to cover that. Look at the pictures that dry bearings have been eating for a while. You should have had someone look at them when it first started the vibration. The rear yoke is also damaged and will need replacement.

You need to get all three of the universal joints replaced along with the rear yoke and possibly the center support bearing. Do not go to the dealer or he will rob you.

It should not effect any alignment.

 

The reason your driveshaft became disconnected is due to the deterioration of the flange yoke. Replace this too or you will be experiencing this issue again even with new ujoints.
Even though your issue is not related to the TSB letters you attached, you are also way past the mileage and year limitations of 60k miles or 60 months.
Spray PB Blaster or preferably liquid wrench on the bolts to make removal easier. It'll be easier to install the DS ujoints to the new yoke off the truck.
Kudos for doing it yourself. You will have plenty of help here on TW to guide you.

 

Find a local driveline shop. They will fix up your driveshaft cheap and quick.

 

Appreciate the responses, glad I signed up on this forum.

I won’t wast my time with the dealer then. Might take it to my uncles shop, he might be cheaper than the dealer, but he’s a shrude sob, no discount on labor, but maybe a little fam discount on the parts.

 

Second to find a local driveline shop to fix it up correctly and it needs to be sanded, painted, and do not forget balanced.
You have option to pull all of the shaft(s) out and take in but measure transfer case output flat flange to the rear diff flat flange (unbolted shaft) or tow it in and let the shop do everything. Should probably do the front driveshaft now too if you have the $$. All the new u-joints should have grease fitting (ask shop to us correct u-joints that do). The slip joint should be greased also and have a zerk. You can look at Tom Woods for info (or other sites) and options.

 

Maybe pay your Uncle and ask if you can help?
Knowledge is valuable. There are things I’d be willing to pay someone full price for, if they’d allow me to be hands on with them.

Plus, I’d rather have a “Shrude SOB” do a good job.
Than “Nice guy” do a poor job.

 

Everyone gripes about shop prices until they own a shop. And thinking just cause its family, ya think you're owed a discount just irks me. As a mechanic, I price based on the job and attitude and I do friend and family discounts if I like them or they are struggling, but if they mention discount before I decide, automatic full price. If ya cant afford a professional, ya sure cant afford an amateur. Just food for thought.

 

Rear flange + a new ujoint and you will be back on the road no issue, there is no "realignment" needed unless you want to be super anal and get the whole shaft rebalanced. The driveshaft itself looks OK, but rear flange is donezo as obviously is the ujoint. Under 100$ in parts.

 

Great stuff. I shouldn't have brought up my Uncle, I was trying to be funny, for what reason idk, but for the record, i've failed at a couple business startups, and I have the utmost respect for him as a successful business owner, and for being one of the hardest working people i know.

How do I figure out the correct rear flange to order? It's proving difficult determining the right part. Do I need to remove it and take measurements with a micrometer? I tried going by what i figured out is just a casting number. The dealership says they cannot order that part individually, and that I have to buy the entire drive shaft assembly to get it. I've found the flange selling separately on parts websites and ebay, but none actually provide a confirmed list of vehicle compatability, because i guess there can be a lot of variation between the same model tacoma's or at least that's how I'm interpreting it.

Oh, and they denied me straight out on that special extended warranty for the u-joints because it's only certain VIN numbers, and not just all 2005 - 2011 tacoma's.

Wishing i had a Toyota custom shop close to me so I maybe get some clear answers, although this forum is proving to have a lot of helpful members.

 

I believe this one will work.
But I prefer Spicer.
https://www.nitro-gear.com/YOKT5004020-p/yokt5004020.htm

@6 gearT444E might even know the part # for spicer.
He knows a lot when it comes to the driveline on these trucks.

 

Any driveline shop or auto shop can do the repair, it's a fairly basic procedure with the right tools.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/293727412060?fits=Model:Tacoma

 

While you're on ebay buying stuff you also need one of these to prevent this from happening again:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/223543294600?epid=16016557886

 

^THIS. 100% THIS! I love being hands on and learning about how things work. I would love to "help" work on what I'm not comfortable doing myself to learn.

 

You probably got it fixed already, but definitely that flange is a gonner. You can get them online for about $60. You don't need to replace the drive shaft unless it got damaged when it separated. My buddy and I just pulled my driveshaft and replaced all three U-joints and the hangar bearing. You don't need a shop unless you need a new drive shaft. Total in parts was $140 through NAPA. You need a ball joint press to change them all out in good time. Hammer away all day otherwise, if you choose. Ball joint press is a free rental from any auto parts store. Great youtube videos out there. Its bolts, butane torch and a few trips to the hardware store to get the right fittings because the bolts are squirreled away a bit. My cheat sheet is 3/8 inch sockets, variable speed impact wrench (your basic cordless style is fine), and wobble extensions will make your job go a lot faster. Wobble extensions are the key. That and a torch to heat those bolts up.

 

give this a try

 

God I hope you are not serious.

 

Looks legit.

 

Send it!

 

is that the hybrid exhaust shaft?