Ugly Gold 4 door Hoor SAS-LS

I have a Handler 140 so definitely know yours is a capable machine. Some of the welds look a little undercut from what could have been a bit too much heat. Looks like 3/16 flat bar overlays?

 

Yeah, 3/16 on the top plates. The sides are all 1/8. @Kwikvette said that too. I think I was moving too slow as well so it was getting real hot. Still using a shit helmet and kinda hard to follow the seams moving fast. Ill try turning it down to 3 and see if it makes it better tomorrow. Thanks for the tip. Still trying to figure this welding thing out.

 

good winch, pulled a ranger twice and a taco once after I wired it up on the trail
Some say if you really want it to last, pull apart the gear box and take all the china grease out and repack with some good quality stuff.

 

Until you get a nice helmet, keep one of these on the area where you're headed and get your face as close to the bead as possible. I use a $35 HF helmet - also practice with a mock pass for each bead so you know if you are well positioned and don't need to adjust mid-weld before you pull the trigger.

 

Yeah I noticed in the post you tagged me in you were running really hot.

Fortunately, it's a lap weld and not a fillet weld as undercut would leave your metal a bit thin and susceptible to cracking.

Try running your verticals downward; running up is meant for really thick metal where penetration is important. However, running up means a lot more heat applied.

 

My step bro ordered one from HF and they sent it and then a week later they sent another. That was 8 months ago and never charged. So, I snagged it. Its big as shit but free!

 

Nice snag!!!
I was sold on it after watching a YT video of a guy hooking his 4R to an overhead crane with it and winched himself up in the air with just the winch power.

 

x2. having a good light on your welds helps tremendously.

 

Oh shit, yeah I saw someone do that with a 4th gen. Idk if it was a badlands though. Thats ballsy!

Ordered a lincoln 3350. Should be here next week. Super excited! Im getting grinders elbow.

 

Stuck that winch control box behind the grill and in front of the radiator if you can.

Building that frame takes a long time, just wait until you get to the steering box mount. Pretty sure I have 20+hrs into my steering box mount alone. I also didn't grind shit unless there was a clearance issue, if someone wants to critique my welds I I'll just kick them in the nuts, as long as it holds I DGAF what it looks like.

 

Funny. Today, I was thinking about that steering gear. I know that fu$%er is gonna have to go right up in the core support. Im prob gonna have to make changes on that front frame drop. That's why Im not plating it till the axle is all setup.

With these projects the most important part i'm seeing, is planning for failure ahead of the failure. Im already gonna have to cut out my front frame x-member for this damn winch.

At this point, if I was to do another one, I'd have the frame cut off and tied in over a 3 day period. This one started sunday and I will be done tomorrow. But, I get in the shop and all the bullshit in life goes away and I just start making shit and I love it.

 

My advice is worry about the winch last! And yea it seems like 2 steps forward and 3 back most of the time.

 

There's a guy in the Coastal thread with a .stl file to 3D print a smaller box to hold the control box internals to mount inside the engine bay.

 

Motor mounts today. Just gotta put the tcase’s on and then I can weld them in. This is the template only w another plate so I can unbolt. The motor is as far as I can go w out it hitting hood. Prob 2” or a bit more from stock.

 

Yeah. I abandoned winch for now. Go back later when axle is in.

 

@malburg114 's front half looked like this too!!!

 

That truck is nice AF. I haven’t seen the mounts or frame but I know he has set it up to be real low. I’m basically using all the info I’ve gathered and doing as much as possible to make sure everything clears w a low stance. If the super charger wasn’t hitting the hood I could prob get like 3/4 of an inch higher w the stock intake.

 

If your remaking all the transmission crossmembers etc, move the motor back too. And use something else than a toyota steering box. They’re weak and leak after very little wheeling. I used a psc big bore box from a tj/lj.

frame looks good. I should have done the raised section in the middle to avoid notching mine.

page 65 of my build is when I started making the new frame

 

That is so funny. I was about to look up what you used and how you did your gear cause i remember seeing it on the inside. Ill check all that out now. Yeah, the frame geometry turned out good if the driver side works out. Im not happy with the finish on the outside. I may end up sanding smooth and adding another plate with the holes just for aesthetics.

How much do you think I should move back? I am at 14.75 from front of core support to cam cover which is identical to stock. I have about 3/4 of an inch before the passenger manifold hits and I already beat that area in.

 

I’d go enough back to give more room for uptravel against the oil pan and clear the ac pulley. I ended up having to move my axle farther forward than I wanted to clear the oil pan and ac pulley and get the uptravel numbers I want. The tire still rubs the fenders at the marker lights and I’m about ready to do a comp cut on them