1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

Corroded fog light connections, best way to clean them?

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Goliath, Mar 10, 2022.

  1. Mar 10, 2022 at 6:24 PM
    #1
    Goliath

    Goliath [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Aug 28, 2016
    Member:
    #195777
    Messages:
    447
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jason
    Rhode Island
    Vehicle:
    2009 Access Cab TRD Sport
    This past December I had my frame replaced and had a few issues arise that the dealer took care of. One that still is still lingering is the fog lights are not working. The circuit is intact, however I’ve discovered the pins in the connectors are severely corroded. I’ve inquired at the parts dept into getting new ones but was told they’re “discontinued” and to try a junkyard. I’ve gone to a few auto parts stores and one was able to find some at $80 a piece. I was also able to locate some on Amazon but read mixed reviews from those who used them. Guess it’s just easier to clean them. What would be the best way to go about cleaning these things? I’ve read about using baking soda, CRC QD electronic cleaner, even vinegar. Looking for a little assistance and advice. Should I even go this route or just try and get new ones? ThanksAC719D22-F8D5-4231-B16E-82A1765C62D6.jpg
     
  2. Mar 10, 2022 at 7:03 PM
    #2
    BlkDakDave

    BlkDakDave Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 20, 2012
    Member:
    #89422
    Messages:
    1,046
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    David
    CC TX
    Vehicle:
    07 AC PreRunner TRD/Off Road
    Before you go out and buy new ones, try out your ideas. You are on course of doing it yourself and saving some $$. I would disconnect the battery before trying to remove the corrision. Any type of mild acid, vinegar, coca-cola or baking soda should be throughly rinsed off. Maybe a small file or something simular could be used the corrision instead. Also the CRC QD electronic cleaner is good electrical cleaner that can also be used for cleaning the MAF sensor. You may also want to think about adding some dielectric grease. I actually use petroleum jelly on a lot of electrical connection. Works great on battery connections.
     
    Hallzilla likes this.
  3. Mar 10, 2022 at 7:09 PM
    #3
    Toy4me

    Toy4me Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Aug 19, 2012
    Member:
    #85061
    Messages:
    3,735
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Tom
    NNJ
    Vehicle:
    '10 DCLB TRD Sport MGM
  4. Mar 10, 2022 at 7:11 PM
    #4
    fxntime

    fxntime Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 28, 2015
    Member:
    #167977
    Messages:
    1,757
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    2015 Tacoma off road TRD and 2014 FJC
    Once you figure out how to clean them well I'd use Alnox and get it worked in well to the female fitting by installing the male side several times and working more Alnox in each time. Then clean off any excess where the plastic fits together.
     
  5. Mar 10, 2022 at 7:14 PM
    #5
    Toy4me

    Toy4me Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Aug 19, 2012
    Member:
    #85061
    Messages:
    3,735
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Tom
    NNJ
    Vehicle:
    '10 DCLB TRD Sport MGM
    My wife approves of this post :anonymous:.
     
    cajunbull61 likes this.
  6. Mar 10, 2022 at 7:56 PM
    #6
    Hallzilla

    Hallzilla Member

    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2010
    Member:
    #44472
    Messages:
    15
    Gender:
    Male
    Hopetown
    Vehicle:
    TRD sport
    Fox 2.5 JBA
    I feel bad for you dudes who have to deal with these types of problems. Hopefully you can work it out, and maybe go through other connectors while you are at it to make sure something else isn't going to fail on ya downstream.
     
  7. Mar 10, 2022 at 8:23 PM
    #7
    Geeves77

    Geeves77 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 16, 2020
    Member:
    #319439
    Messages:
    2,010
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Mark
    Northeast
    Vehicle:
    2011 Tacoma DCSB
    3 inch Icon lift with UCA’s
  8. Mar 10, 2022 at 9:45 PM
    #8
    TacoTuesday1

    TacoTuesday1 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2019
    Member:
    #296781
    Messages:
    6,513
    Gender:
    Male
    SoCal
    There are special cleaning tools. You can always crimp on a new pigtail.

    Stupid that they would discontinue it, especially on a car not that old, whose terminal end pins are probably used in many other locations and even on current model vehicles since there's no reason to change that design if they (hopefully) got it right the first time.
    It's the mark of a successful brand to keep producing parts like this to keep their cars on the road; if they are not, then something is wrong.

    I believe Audi/VW phases parts out after 30 years, and Mercedes policy is to produce them for a lifetime. Or at least used to be.

    That being said, it's a possible excuse of a lazy or incompetent parts person to just have you leave and say "it doesn't exist" when really they don't know where to find it.
    Sometimes you can only find terminal end pins from the manufacturer. Because they have strict quality control at the factory crimping them on and do not trust the technician to do that in a workshop.
    However, they still usually sell "repair wire" (per wire), as well as wire itself, with the terminal pins already crimped on the end. Some of the crimping tools and dies can cost $700 at a factory.
    They then leave it up to you to do the cutting, and crimping, such as with an NSPA Krimpa-Seal or similar of appropriate gauge thickness.
    Which is a mechanical crimp (not solder), shrink tube sheath outer, adhesive lined inside to seal out moisture. $1 or less per/each

    Those pins definitely look bad and you should replace them to, at minimum, rule it out of the equation.
    It would be cheap to find one that is not corroded at a U-pull yard, cut it off, then crimp it on.
     
  9. Mar 10, 2022 at 9:59 PM
    #9
    steveo27

    steveo27 Ask me about my weiner

    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2013
    Member:
    #110326
    Messages:
    5,788
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Steve
    Pittsburgh
    Vehicle:
    '11 TRD Off Road & 1992 VW GLI
    The same shit everyone else has.
    Depin each one and clean em. You’ll never get all the corrosion off of them unless you did.
    I went through the same issue with mine.
     
  10. Mar 10, 2022 at 10:18 PM
    #10
    othater

    othater Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Aug 22, 2009
    Member:
    #21558
    Messages:
    354
    Gender:
    Male
    SoCal-Walnut
    Vehicle:
    06 Prerunner SR5 TRD Sport
    This site contains affiliate links for which the site may be compensated.
    #10
  11. Mar 11, 2022 at 3:43 AM
    #11
    Too Stroked

    Too Stroked Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2017
    Member:
    #208501
    Messages:
    3,723
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Tom
    South shore of Lake Ontario
    Vehicle:
    2021 4Runner SR5 Premium
    Speaking as one who worked in the metal finishing business for years - and one who lives in the rust belt - skip cleaning them. Although you might be able to successfully clean them, you will have several problems. First, some of the base metal is gone, so the sockets / pins are no longer the correct size to mate and make a good electrical connection. Second, you will have no plating left to protect the base metal from future corrosion.

    As others have said, simply cut out and replace the connectors. There are plenty of replacements available. Just make sure to properly seal all of your new connections and use dielectric grease on the new connectors to prevent future corrosion.
     
  12. Mar 12, 2022 at 9:25 PM
    #12
    Goliath

    Goliath [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Aug 28, 2016
    Member:
    #195777
    Messages:
    447
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jason
    Rhode Island
    Vehicle:
    2009 Access Cab TRD Sport
    Thanks guys, I appreciate all the help. That’s why I love this place, there’s always someone who knows, who has seen, or who has done exactly what you need done.

    Think it’ll just be easier to cut and replace the connectors in the long run. Found a decent set on Amazon that I’m going to give a try. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JHTHVZD/?coliid=I1F0NEOFCXIDE7&colid=2YNIOYTP84AM1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

    If these don’t cut it I’ll check out the ones from CarID that @Geeves77 mentioned above
     
To Top