Powering a Fridge

so you don’t need two batteries duh.

Plus any good fridge has a low voltage cutoff so it’ll turn off before it kills your battery.

 

We need to get back to teaching ohms law in middle school.

 

No lol, that's not how that works... You can wire your fridge to the stock battery without ignition. Ignition source will only power the fridge while your ignition is on.

 

Nah...that's why we have Jackery's

 

Oh shit my bad, I misread the post and didn’t realize he wired it to keyed power. That’s a terrible idea for a fridge. I thought you meant his ignition battery. I know better than that…







I guess that’s what I get for being a smartass

 

Why is your ground wire red?

 

Because for some reason the ground wire on the stupid relay I bought was red. Wasn't trying to repin the harness just to change the color of wire. I agree it's annoying but not annoying enough to change.

EDIT: it's the same relay that has the black power wire on the fuse block...

 

That's why they make colored tape. Fix that ish' haha.

 

I have to power up a fridge in the back seat with always-on, I was thinking for the short term, grab this and run it to the battery. Long term I'm going to drop a 12V port in the center console. But until then....

Is this what I should be looking for? Chop the end off and put connectors on for the battery, run this to the back seat for the fridge?

 

Id really put in some sort of low voltage cutoff somewhere

 

The fridge (I think) will have that. That's the only thing running that would do it.

But good idea as a backup, when I put the socket into the console I will put one in/get one with one built in.

For the "oh shit I need a fridge in two weeks" timeline, I have a jump pack in the back seat

 

Good point, I forgot fridges even had that built in... Also I like your planning going on so you can procrastinate

 

This would take me 35 seconds to drop in for a weekend, tearing into the center console includes relocating my radio, replacing the cup holders with a new one that holds nalgenes, putting in a power panel, running antenna cables again as needed, running radio power again as needed, redoing the storage pocket adhesive, and now (probably) doing the low voltage cutoff a second backup too. Which I might do, since I want to run the radio direct to the battery.

That's a days worth for sure, and the only weekend day I have is the saturday before Easter. Banking on it not raining that one day is risky

Besides, this way I can try out where and how i want to do the fridge and see what works better or worse, too

 

In my A/C I built a little platform to hold my Dometic, and had someone run a 12-v plug from under the drivers side cubby -
I plug the Dometic into that while driving.
When parked it gets power from the Jackery 1000 Pro. When the Jackery needs a boost I hook up the 200w solar panels.

The A/C Plug up front is where I plug my brake-controller in otherwise I'd use that.

I can run this little mini-fridge for 4-5 days no muss no fuss and it's as cold as the fridge at my house.

The 12-v plug in the back runs up under to the battery in an ignition-only setup so it's only drawing while the truck is running.

 

I have a dual battery setup both agm, cascadia 4x4 solar panel on the hood, dedicated 12v 10 gauge to the back with blue sea panel back there, has a voltmeter, cigarette outlet, and usb. Inside the cab I also ran a dedicated wire to the cigarette lighter. So the fridge can be in or out, and always on.

 

I did a 12 day trip Running my 1000watt jackery to fridge never busted out my solar panels.



rear seat delete with my fridge and my trusty companion coco in the back in her bed. Have the jackery plugged in 12v so charges while driving

 

This seems like the simplest option I've seen. So you literally just plug the jackery into the outlet and that's it? Also is there a way you can plug it into the cab? I'll be storing my fridge in the back seat.

 

This is the setup I'd like to roll with. This is probably a dumb question as I know next to nothing about electronics, but where is the jackery plugged into?

 

Highly recommend a low voltage cutoff and if youre going to go this route, buy the bulk wire (good quality wire) and dont buy the cheap china wire and connectors that can start a fire with the voltage running constantly.

Biggest draw on fridges is the temperature difference inside vs outside. If its in a truck thats hot (in texas for example) and the truck is off, the fridge will work drastically harder keeping temperature than it would outside the vehicle. Low voltage cut offs are nice, but on a single battery setup, it will cut the voltage off when its below 12v, which is too late for starting the vehicle as it wont turn over likely with >12v. Dual batteries or dedicated power for the fridge is ideal, dual batteries and pulling constant off the accessory battery with a cutoff in the middle to prevent overdrawing the starting battery is the ideal setup but can be costly.

Really if youre wanting to fun the fridge with the truck on/off at all times, think about fire hazard(s) and just make sure you have safeties in place to prevent raw voltage/current just flowing in the case of an emergency.

We are Genesis dealers if youre wanting a dual battery setup that fits in the OEM battery location and comes with the necessary safeties in place to prevent compromising the trucks starting battery and is a very nice/clean setup with accessory terminals ontop of the dual battery setup to keep wiring clean and prevent the usual "stacking" of eyelets on the battery connector.

 

Jackery is plugged into 12v so while I’m driving it is getting charged if needed