How many ground straps are there for the 3.4

I’m looking at replacing all the ground straps for my 1997 truck with the 3.4,
Anyone know how many there are and general locations for these?
Thanks in advance

 

Wouldn't hurt to add more than needed.

 

Not sure Just what your calling Ground straps as each circuit has a ground and many share a Common Ground.

From the factory off the negative battery terminal one goes to the inner fender one goes to the Steel engine Block.

Myself I also run one to the frame in some cases to the starter bolt and The ECM ground.

 

Oh, we're not talking about those straps people have that scrape along the ground to prevent static shock?

 

My new starter and battery looks to be drawing most of the current when it's turning on and my ECU is showing a voltage drop below 11 volts.
Maybe I just need a large cable strap to the frame or engine off the negative side battery

 

I see no reason you'd need another ground cable or a larger one than factory. Factory equipment is more than sufficient (by design).

Is it starting normally? I'm no electrical expert, but if it's starting normally, I wouldn't be too concerned about a momentary voltage drop when starting.

 

Keep in mind, from the factory there are no, as in zero, electrical loads grounded thru the frame on a 1st gen. The only benefit in adding a frame ground is in the event the engine ground cable fails. When this happens the ground path (from all loads including the starter) will default to the steel fuel line/e-brake/throttle cable and that tiny ground wire from the neg battery terminal to body. The inner steel brake/throttle cable can heat up to the point of melting any plastic it touches, plastic pulleys etc.

 

This firewall ground goes to the block.

 

I got into adding a ground to the frame from years of fighting with trailer lights and brakes it was just much easier and is now more of a habit.

All my vehicles have 7 pin plugs and brake controllers .

 

I have yet to see one of those installed see a few hanging by the fastner from the firewall over the years.

First time it gets removed it is gone in most cases and lost.

 

I’m not saying you do this, but whoever works like that with little regard to put things back correctly would not be welcomed to work with me on my vehicle. Rather than tossing things aside that someone deems unnecessary, why not just do it right? Reminds me of the saying “never time to do it right but always time to do it twice” and that’s the opposite of how I approach a project.

 

One on the pass cyl head, hard to see on the rear. Almost yanked it off when I pulled the head. Also there is a big one near the oil filter and I think another on the intake drivers side.

 

i am curious just what is the electrical reason for that tiny wire from the firewall to the engine?

I see no electrical issues with it not being there. i am much to lazy to replace things like that. It could add another month to the job.

I would really like to know .

 

Answering past the sarcasm, I don’t know what it’s there for. Getting that answer would probably take way longer than just hooking things back up correctly. But if you’re genuinely curious, email Toyota. I’m sure they know since their engineers decided to put it there. I doubt the reason was to give you one more thing to throw away.

 

Must be a good reason because anyone in product design knows that

Agreed. I have pulled a few heads in my time, did a turbo 2JZ but the 5VZ is quite a pain so to take any shortcuts is not worth it unless your time is worthless. Just to pull the exhaust manis took me most of a day. Luckily since its a truck it has those openings in the wheel well or it would be almost impossible. Never seen any cyl head where you have to pull the cams to get to the head bolts but not like I have done that many. Is that common? Definitely makes it harder especially since on a lifted truck you are in a very awkward position. All of those damn connections in the back of the engine are a royal pain. And if you are getting a valve job you have to reassemble cams on the bench, then disassemble again when you get heads back.

Pulling the transmission and transfer on the ground is next in line on the PITA scale. I cannot believe how heavy it is and no flat area on the bottom of the trans so its very unstable on the trans jack. Unfortunately have done that twice alone. I don't recommend it.

But no one is forcing me to this myself so I can't complain too much.

 

I was quite serious My Local Toyota Service Manger does not know the techs there do not replace them if they are missing !

That is why I never did .

 

But obviously it doesn't add a month onto a job to connect a wire. If Toyota techs at X dealership don't know and don't hook it back up, that's their bad call to make and a place I would avoid - their actions aren't justified simply by the shirt they wear. Modifying an electrical pathway when you don't know its purpose is not a wise move, even if you've gotten away with it for this long as far as you know. But then ago that's just my opinion which is worth what you paid for it.

If I were to speculate as to this wire's function: seeing how it has some slack wrapped up in tape, maybe it's a failsafe connection to keep critcical functions like airbag deployment working in case of a partial cab/frame separation. But that's just a guess. I don't really need to know since mine is still there and intact.

 

The battery cable harness has the ground straps built in. In addition to the one already posted at rear engine/firewall.

I just did a big 3 upgrade for a TW member and it's a bitch taking apart the loom and running new wire. I would add wire outside the loom to the body and engine block to keep it simple. Here is the original wiring below. I marked the ground points.

 

The triangles note the harness ground points.....

 

I'd guess it's to help handle the load. The ground going from battery to fender/apron is as tiny as that wire. I bet they added that rear one from firewall to block to help distribute the grounding needs.