Is it normal for cv to rub at full droop?

I have fox 2.0 suspension with SPC UCAs. I went to replace my CV axle because the boot is torn. I noticed I could hardly spin the wheel once off the ground.

I found the boot is rubbing on itself and on the lower control arm at full droop. Should I be concerned about this? Is there a fix? Reduce front lift (I’m close to level front and back)? And should I hold off on replacing the CV or go for it?

 

Sounds like your CV axle is binding up. This is common with aftermarket CVs. Many do not have the range of movement the OEM axles have.

 

This is an OEM CV axle. And yes it’s rubbing and possibly binding. The wheel is very hard to turn part way through the rotation. I can’t remember if that’s normal or not. I think it’s not normal from my vague memory. The truck is in 2 wheel drive.

 

Still sounds like that axle is binding up. Is the front end up on jack stands? Both front wheels off the ground?

If so, try two things. One is the see if the opposite side does same or similar. Also, with it still on the jack stands, use your floor jack to raise the lower control arm on the side that is binding about an inch and see if the bind goes away.

 

Yes both wheels are off the ground. Both wheels bind at full droop.

If I jack up the CV a little, the binding is substantially better. It’s still a little stiff due to the boot rubbing. Maybe all CVs rub boots a little at full droop (wheels off the ground) since trucks aren’t normally at full droop when the vehicle is driving.

 

Some may. It depends on the coilover lenght as the CO is the limiting factor.

If you use your truck in flexy situations, I'd be concerned. That bind will cause damage. Adding limit straps is the workaround.

 

Should I reduce the preload on the coil to lower the ride height a bit? Will the maximum extension remain the same?

If I reduce the preload will I still need limit straps? And will I need a shop for the limit straps install? I can’t weld.

How on earth is anyone running these coils on this truck without having binding?

 

You might be surprised by how many of us that use our trucks hard offroad are running limit straps. I am with my ADS COs.

How much lift are you running. If it's more than 2", reducing it may help a little. The IFS on our trucks is best if 1.5-2" of lift is not exceeded.

 

I believe it’s a 2” lift.

I also still have my OEM UCAs. I chose to use SPC, which may have been a mistake. I was reading the SPC allows for more droop than OEM.

 

The boots will rub at full droop, that's normal. With the front drooped down the axle angles will be steeper, naturally. You don't want them to rub at ride height though, that's what will cause them to wear out quick

 

Is it normal for the CV to bind when the wheels are off the ground? I can barely force the wheel to do a rotation when the truck is jacked up. If I jack up the CV I can rotate it with slight rubbing.

One of my CV joint boots is torn, and I can see the other one is about to tear off as well.

I’ve had the lift for less than 5k miles.

 

Yeah that doesn't sound right. The wheels should still spin freely when fully drooped. Sounds like the axle on that side needs to be replaced, and like mentioned above OEM or rebuilt OEM axles are the way to go, aftermarket axles won't articulate as much without bind

I have a Pep Boys poverty spec axle on one side, OEM on the other. The side with the aftermarket axle droops down about 2" less than the OEM side when jacked up. But both spin freely, so I suspect in your case that axle is binding badly and will soon give up the ghost

 

Toyota discontinued their reman axles but a lot of dealerships still have them, much cheaper than a brand new OEM axle and you'll get more $ off if you give them your old one.

CVJ also sells rebuilt OEM axles, same deal if you send in your old one

 

This is true, the aftermarket UCAs do allow for more droop because their ball joint/uniball has more range of motion. Unfortunately, if you were to swap back to the OEM UCA, that upper ball joint would become the limiting factor. I think that would be a bad idea with those COs.

 

CV axles at their limit and binding, normal.

 

My CVS are OEM. I also have a set of new OEM CV axles in a box here. I was going to install them today and decided not to after noticing the CV angle/binding at full droop looks too extreme.

Thanks for confirming. So my current plan is to reduce my lift .5-1” in front and install limit straps.

Anything else I should do?

Is it ok if I drill and bolt to install the straps, or do I need to weld it? Any recommendation on limit strap brand/model to use?

 

Do you think the boot will tear again? Will it damage the CV if I try to drive it at full droop (wheeling)

 

Your boots will rub and tear if your angles are severe enough during normal driving.

That's why you'll often hear people say keep your lift at 2".

You can get away with a little more, sometimes, but the higher you go, the more of a chance you have to rub.

As for wheeling, you're not at constant droop throughout a long trip. Only small moments of articulation really and it's not enough to suddenly tear a boot.

 

I use straps and associated parts from Kartek. These were recomended to me over other brands. I use their 7" strap which is the smallest they make.

https://www.kartek.com/parts/nylon-...rap-with-4130-heat-treated-chromoly-ends.html

As for mounting, the bottom mount was easy, I bolt the end of the strap to the unused anti-sway bar mount on the lower control arm. The top mount will have to be welded to the frame.

 

Thanks for the photos, that’s super helpful.

Based on what I’m seeing in the photos I think I’ll get:
- 2 straps
- 2 adjustable clevis
- 2 weld on brackets
- 2 nuts
- 4 washers
- 2 bolts

Does that sound right? (I kind of wish it was all in a kit/form on a product page so I would know if I got everything I need.

If I get a cheap stick welder can I weld it myself? Or should I get a pro to tig weld it?