Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

That’s definitely the issue, or at least a big part of it. Go drive it around the block and take another look at it.

 

this ^

 

thanks guys. Yeah after messing with it more I flipped them. The thinner part of all the eccentric washers are on the inside so when you rotate it puts more force on the inside tab to push out. That’s at least how I understood it.

 

my 1st gen Smittybilt winch is just a rebranded T-max whinch. T-Max is an Australian company that's on par with ARB and the other Aussie companies. I've heard that the newer gen Smittybilt winches are Also T-Max as well, but i cannot verify that claim..

found the T-Max logo when I took everything a part to regrease the planetary gear set, and to clock the clutch lever thingy years ago..



I recently added a Harbor Freight Badlands wireless winch controller into the mix after replacing the solenoid that shorted and upgraded all cable to 2AWG after a hard recovery of a rolled over T4R..

The recovery details are here https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/monkeyproofs-misadventures.697489/page-3#post-24925796

 

Kinda funny watching a 7000lbs 2wd truck make it through a section that some Tacoma guys couldn’t

 

Tire size, suspension flex (that actually works), wheel base, power and skill make a difference. Share details of the trip route please.

 

Couple of years ago a friends wife of mine and myself un-stacked each of those sections of every rock while my buddy was working on his taco. We did a good job too. Not only removing the rocks, but moving them out and away too. When we all done and ready to continue up, a all stock Sequoia caught to us, we ended helping the dude up through the 3 sections by... stacking a few rocks. I ended up winching him up the last little thing..


My usual line going up or down at the first one going up..



And the Sequia with a little help with the winch..

 

Spent an insane amount of time fitting glass this weekend. Probably damn close to 10 hours a fender. They are close enough for body work to start now. And I finished the 934’s up as well. Just have to get my bumps and straps in up front and I’ll be on to the rear this coming weekend. Moving at a much better pace than anticipated.

 

Fit the JD battery tray in the back seat. Going to have to make some modification to the overhead strap but for right now it’s in there secure.

Looks a little sloppy because I was trying to hide as much slack as possible. I’m going to remove the cubbies at some point and build this area out different. 2/0 awg power and ground to the old battery location with bus bars. Ran a single 2 awg for switch pros on its own fuse.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/coastal-offroad-armor-kits.758771/

For guys looking for a bumper solution in conjunction with the JD Relocation.

 

What is everybody doing for hydro bump setup? 1" at the hub enough? Or 1" at the shock shaft?

 

Not that I have any input, but do you mean the bumps start engaging at 1" at the hub or 1" at the shaft?

 

I'm talking about travel remaining before metal to metal at bump.

 

I'm still not following but I'll wait for someone else to chime in and continue the discussion and maybe the lightbulb will go off for me. In my mind, you go all the way up to metal on metal, back off a smidge, and that's your full bump but maybe there's something I'm missing.

 

You have to account for bump pad wear. I'm just wondering how much to limit the up travel.

 

Neither... the point of the bumpstop is to prevent the upper Uniball from topping out as there will still be shock shaft showing when this happens. Simply limit the travel to prevent the cup from binding

 

Right, but exactly how much should I limit it before metal to metal. Or is bump pad wear not a thing to consider?

 

If you want to be safe and never have to worry about it then limit the wheel travel at the hub by 1/2” or so

 

Thank you!