Wyoming B.S. Thread

Thanks!

So the seal I will get from Toyota. For the flywheel - I don't know much about brands or if there are differences/tradeoffs, etc. Are they all "the same" and it's just about price, or is LUK better than Toyota, Does one offer different performance characteristics, etc.?

 

Toyota one will be more expensive. They're pretty much like brake rotors, just as long as they're flat and the same weight it'll be the same no matter who made it.

 

Unless you specifically wanted to get one with a different weight.

Guessing Dan will want to stick with factory though. Also, if you could make it work when you're in the middle of that job, I would rather have the OEM one machined, than install a cheap aftermarket one.

 

I had fitment issues with my LUK flywheel, but I believe that's exclusive to the 4cyl.
Just ended up going to orielly's and getting their "power torque" brand or whatever and it's been fine.
As long as the weights are the same as OEM, it'll have the same characteristics. A heavier flywheel would make the truck rev slower due to the increase in rotational mass it has to turn around. Opposite for a lighter one

 

The machine shop I'd take it to won't be open on a weekend... but the Napa down the street grinds em I think. I can find out

 

Depends on your time/value. Cost savings are not worth the time to drive it to a shop, wait for it to get machined, and drive home. Shit, if we take Zane's land cruiser it's a wash just in gas prices.

 

I live a mile from two Napas but I have the Corolla so we might come out on top

 

I honestly would pay more to have the OEM one machined vs installing one of the shitty cheap ones.

 

I've done both, there are some good third party brands, Sachs and Luk are fine and have always been balanced well. But AMS I'd stay away from. Have a Nissan with an Oriellys (cheapest shit avail) flywheel that works fine with a high performance clutch holding over 700lb ft of torque.

 

I'm sure it's hit or miss. I've just read of all sort of issues with them, from out of balance, to starters not engaging, etc. and there's no reason not to machine the factory one unless it's completely trashed.

I get the convenience factor, but removing the trans again to replace shitty parts isn't convenient.

 

RIP Monte...

Yeah, honestly we could have Dan's ground, this isn't a stepped flywheel anyway so anyone should be able to do it. I'm in the industrial area, someone's bound to be open

 

Best part about a 1st gen clutch is the slave unbolts so you never have to bleed the system!

I've swapped 2 trans in my truck the last 2 months and never bleed the clutch.

 

I did a clutch in a 2nd 4r a few months ago by myself and it took me about 10 hours. If you have it machined, Marlin has a recommendation on the step height that I've been happy with. Can't remember what it is off the top of my head though.

 

It is a stepped flywheel. And needs to have a .5 mm step to be in OEM spec.

Nice. MC was leaking so I rebuilt it and the slave. Don't think I've gotten all the air out if the system or something else is wrong. Slips all the time. Brand new lce performance kit.

 

I very much value getting in there and doing this once rather than having issues, if for no other reason than I like to get out on trips as much as possible and spend as little time possible wrenching (because I spend a lot of time on just general maintenance stuff with how many miles I put on the truck).

From that perspective, since this is a "once every ~220-300K" item (doing the clutch), I'm a bit price insensitive. The OEM flywheel is pricey - $486 - so 10x the cost of the Luk, and maybe a similar 10x to getting the OEM one ground.

In my ideal world, I'd get the OEM one ground at a reputable shop, since I like the idea of not "wasting" something that can be made good relatively easily, but I also don't want to end up getting it ground "cheaply" (by some place Zane doesn't really trust) only to find out that I'm doing the job again. Given all that, should I just not care and chalk it up to a few tanks of gas either way? Seriously. I'm going to spend half that just driving to Zane's from home.

Maybe I get an OEM one, then get the old one ground (at the good shop that's closed weekends) for future reinstallation?

And... go!

 

You already know what I think

 

why? You planning on keeping this truck another 200k+? I doubt it.

Or burning up your clutch and destroying your flywheel? I doubt it.

 

Considering how fast he went from 60k to 2xxk, that might not actually be all that long from now

 

nah. It'll have rattled apart is some other major way by then IMO. 400k with half that on bumpy roads at speed? Core support will go for sure. Body mounts maybe. Bed sides. It is inevitable.

 

Find a fly wheel in a junkyard and have it resurfaced. Recycle, the power is yours.