ECGS bushing install failure

Why does Toyota not fix the problem, my 2005 had this. My daughters 2022 4Runner had the same trouble, 3 weeks at the dealer and they replaced with a new diff with no loaner. Fixed for now but how long will it last, first started making a noise after a week and little over 500 miles.

 

The part of the puller that seats inside of the bearing was just a little too wide. Maybe a few mm. I could tell it wasn't perfectly aligned and took more time grinding it down that actually pulling the old bearing and seating in the new one.

I was able to get the entire needle bearing out with very little fuss and in a single piece. I would say getting the old axle seal out was more of a pita lol

 

They did make changes to the bearing and there is a new part #.
However, if I remember correctly the new one is shorter than the old one.
The ECGS bushing is longer and maybe just “slightly” smaller in inside diameter.
The longer part is what makes the difference. There’s more “bearing” surface.

Anyways, I really don’t why they use the needle bearing.
I’m a parts changer at best, I’m not an engineer. I’m sure there is a reason they keep the using the same style bearing?

 

I used a seal puller, popped right out for me.
Just be careful not to dig in to the mating surface on the Diff.

This is the exact one I used.

 

That's actually the only thing that worked. It sprouted some legs and walked off to a different spot than where I placed it previously that seal is pretty stout. I used a 2" PVC reducer to get it nice and flush after pulling it

 

Here some pictures of after I got it to fit.

 

That is GREAT information.
Saves others a lot of time

 

Let me know if you guys need any other measurements of it

 

It looks like you also tapered the ends so they are not as thick?

 

Correct. I felt like it was too thick to get in-between the bushing and the diff inside

 

When I was feeling around in there trying to seat the pull bracket, I had that thought too, it just seemed like there wasn’t enough space for the bracket to sit in between the bearing and whatever sits behind it.

 

So this turned out to be a banger idea, thanks for suggesting it. ECGS was super nice and they’re working me in on Monday. While I’m there I’ll ask about the tool not fitting and see if they might modify their manufacturing specs.

 

I do this same thing and haven’t had any issues in the dozen or so installs I’ve done. Baggie to totally block the diff side, then use a punch to get the tool seated, breaking part of the bearing in the process. Pull the old bearing out, use a magnet to fish out any broken pieces, and install the new bushing.

 

having done 3 of these, i think you guys are overthinking it. stuff the plastic in there. that will keep the tool from falling in. if that tool wont seat past the needle bearing, hammer it in. it doesn't matter if you break the back of the bearing. the plastic bag will keep the broken bits right there. have a magnet to pull the parts out, though if you have enough plastic bag, the bits will come out when you pull the plastic out. its really easy-peasey.

 

The piece of the tool that goes behind the bearing didn’t even remotely fit. It wasn’t like it was really close and just needed a bit of a shave, it wasn’t even close. It could not have been hammered in.

 

I would be willing to bet that the bearing has some commonality with other models and that the failure rate just isn't high enough to warrant a change. Usually needle roller bearings are used in applications where space is limited, so maybe it came down to cost and axle/axle housing design.

 

I built my own tool to do this back when I put the bushing in, but my process would of been the same with the ECGS tool.

You have a bushing that is out of the truck with the back plate of the tool that is used to pull it out. Take the piece and line it up with the bushing. Make adjustments to size as needed as there is no chance the tool can be bigger than the OD of the bushing.

 

I’ll measure my tool tonight when I get a chance. It was pretty close. It just caught the inside edge of the outer race.
That’s all that was keeping it from going in/ behind the bearing.

For those that might do this later.
Maybe take some thin diameter string and loop it through the tool. That way if the too falls in, you can pull it up in place or back out.

I’ll take pictures later to help explain it.

 

on the ones i did, the tool is catching on the rear lip of the needle bearing. hammering it in broke the lip off, and the tool seated perfectly. just had to get it past that lip (by breaking the lip). this was the same on the 2 first gens, and the single 3rd gen i worked on.

 

Yes, mine did the same.

If the lip breaks, turn the toll 90’ degrees. That way you are not trying to pull the bearing out on the broken piece.