Wyoming B.S. Thread

Price insensitive? Then just take it to Toyota and have them replace it all with OEM parts.

 

At my current rate, it'll be 4-5 years. On the edge of possibility for sure.

I am worried about this.

Do I need to worry about them getting messed up in some way other than just needing to be resurfaced? Part of what I'm looking for is reliability, part is convenience and timing. And, are all the flywheels (for the V6 M/T) the same? (having just gone through the transfer case thing, where they aren't)

I also like doing things myself. Price insensitive to parts, maybe?


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Edit: Also, is there much to worry about with getting a used one and grinding it, vs. getting a new one? As in, how does "wear" work on a flywheel - is it just some surface that wears unevenly? Is the entire thing under stress and so there's benefit to a new one?

 

Sounds like your pedal free play is adjusted wrong. That's the easiest system to bleed because it's so simple. Or you nicked the plunger on assembly.

 

My oem flywheel had visible hot spots on it. It is also possible for flywheels to develop hairline cracks. The surface gets heated every time you change gears so I decided to take no chances (or gamble according to Brett) with the LUK.

 

Yeah fair. your aren't abusing the clutch with the kind of driving you do a lot. At least not by doing tons of harder crawling.

You should be haha not to be "morbid" but we have all seen what happens to these trucks with lots of abuse. And you're racking up a LOT.

Nah the free play is fine. I think there is air still in the MC right now. Nothing is leaking.

 

If you had a hydraulic problem wouldn't you have an issue with disengaging only?


Which reminded me - I would swap in a steel braided clutch line Dan.

 

I have no idea what else it could be. Everything else is brand new and i know its not wrong this time.

I've read a bad slave can cause issues too so I might get a new one, and do the steel breaded line at the same time.

 

Any of you 1st gen homies have experience with old Camburg 2.5" C/O's? Looking to buy a set for $750 and wanted some input. Fresh rebuild on 13" 650lb Icon coils. I know Camburg had sold that C/O design to Sway-a-way or something along those lines and now AFE. @TMFF ever messed around with these at all? Appreciate it! Posted in here as there are many knowledgeable 1st genners lurking in here.

 

I think camburg came after swayway.

They don't have the fixed top hats do they? Otherwise they will be just fine with a good rebuild I'm sure.

That said after a rebuild you aren't that far from a brand new set at that price. Although I know wait times on most coilovers is very high.

 

Not a fixed top. Pinned top so it has that flexibility. They are already rebuilt as well. No use since the rebuild. So $750 ready to throw on and good for another 30k+ or until I finish building this HP Dana 44 or go LT lol...

 

I got a set that I used on my truck since 2005 with many rebuilds and revalves along the way. ANY red coilover with camburg on it is a SAW. Hell I have short 8" Kings that have Camburg etched into the coilover top hats!

Buy them and run them! The only thing I would do is put 14x650 springs on them if your are lifted high or lots of added LBS up front.

 

Zane and I just rebuilt his SAWs and it was super easy. Easier by far than ADS and King, and the internals looked nearly identical from a functionality perspective. Like everyone else says, sounds like you're good to go.

We did put the 14x650 springs on them to replace what was on there.

 

fuckin send it!

if the coils are fine id just run em to save the $100 but 14x650s would be better.

 

Sweet. My truck is becoming a pig up front with the relentless plate bumper, winch, and hopefully skids soon. Those top hats still the king blue even? Thats wild they are camburg lol. Yea I was surprised that they arent 14" anyways as the 14X650 is a common combo. Thanks for the insight! Appreciate you!

Seems I may do 14x650. Ill have to get em on the truck and go from there. As I dont want to preload that stiffer spring too much.

Very torn between 3-link SAS and LT, gonna be a bit of custom work to keep a lcog with SAS. But the MCM kit is enticing for sure! Essentially bolt on and rip it!

 

You're not preloading them, your just adjusting where they sit on the shock. I'd run em and see where your at.

 

Gotcha! Thats the plan. I have an old set of toytecs on now. Adjustment collars are froze and they are cupping my front tires. Time for them to go and upgrade to these.

 

I wouldn't hesitate to run em, SAW was its own company, then Camburg licensed the design to brand as their own, and then aFe bought SAW. But the design is the same and all parts are available still. As Dan (@turbodb) said, their design is just like King (shares parts with king) and ADS. Easy rebuild, I'd assume they're probably good to go for a while even with the slightly shorter springs. Should still work well.

 

Wicked. That was one of my main concerns, parts availability. But as mentioned now, they share parts with king and ADS so that's not worrisome anymore. Appreciate it buddy!

 

pretty much all the early CO's ran 13'' spings. Think Foxes still do and maybe icons too.

 

Interesting. Yea the coils on em now are ICON anyhow.