Drain and Fill

Ok guys, I have a 16 TRD Sport w/ almost 25,000 miles (We're retired and don't drive much). I've seen the schedule for transmission service members are using at six years or 60k miles. My truck is garaged, so it's out of the elements when not in use. Question, should I drain and fill the tranny at 25k when I do my oil change (every 5k miles)?tia

 

That's exactly what my plan will be. Im gonna drain it cold , and fill it cold to the overflow.

 

At 25k I wouldn't.

 

Sounds like a good plan to me. The cost for a few quarts will be low and you will be good for another 5-6 years, I haven't ever seen a piece of equipment fail from being serviced "too often".
As usual this thread will probably devolve into a soon...

 

Transmissions are pretty fickle when it comes to their fluid level. If you want to do a drain and fill, I would measure exactly how much you're draining out and put back in that same amount + a little extra (maybe 1/3 quart or so) and then proceed with the fluid level check. It's where you get it up to a specified temp range and then remove the overflow and let it drain out a little until the stream slows down. That way you're certain that it's the proper level.

If you just drain and fill, who's to know it's the proper level? Could have been over or underfilled from the factory and doing the proper level check will alleviate any doubt.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/3rd-gen-automatic-transmission-fluid-level-check-diy.547455/

 

Id do it at 60-70K if your going to do it......

 

Well... here it comes...

The USAF determined that they had more engine failures after an oil change than any other time - so they quit changing the oil altogether.
There is your case of failure for being serviced too often.

The caveat is that: They were piston driven radial engines, not turbines. They were dry sump engines that readily leaked and burned oil. So in essence, the oil was being changed just from use and topping off. That also was when only petroleum oil was in use. But the bottom line is, they did quit changing the oil because doing so caused engine failures.

 

30k would be fine too, as you'd be cutting the interval in half and you don't mention heavy towing nor hard 4 wheel use. Pretty sure Toyota says 'lifetime' on the fluid, but I don't believe it either.

Rookie move. If you're going to do it, do it right instead of winging your own procedure.

Much less risk if you follow the suggestion below.

 

OK, you win.

 

I have so many questions here I don't even know where to start.

I'd love some sources, and modern insight on oil changes according to the USAF. But it doesn't sound far fetched. If it's burning enough really no need to change it just keep adding to it. Like boiling a pot of water, would you dump it out to refill or just add more water? I'd probably turn the heat down to slow the boil at least...

 

Yep, I need to find a source of the actual documentation. I learned of it right from the horses mouth - the Depot Level maintenance officer & test pilot from 1951-56 in Germany. This guy was also friends with Ferry Porsche and was very involved cars, engines, and just about anything mechanical.

(for others who don't know, Depot Level is the most complex of maintenance actions (complete overhauls & rebuilds, not just repairs or servicing).)

 

My dad would say, if the engine leaks and burns enough oil, you will never need to do an oil change. Just change the filter and top it off.

 

The only really worthwhile way to do it is to have it flushed with a machine. Trusting that someone will actually do it correctly, well, that’s another issue…

 

If you are at the 6 year mark, then change the fluid. Moisture build up can be the enemy with a vehicle that does not drive much and doesn't boil it off on a regular bases. You fluid has additives that combat the miosture but those get depleted quicker with out regular driving. That is why it is time recommended as well as mileage recommended.

 

Thanks for all the replies. I plan to use Valvoline Max-Life. I assume this is OK. Lable indicates that it meets "WS" spec.

 

This^^^

 

If you’re going to go through the effort of performing interval maintenance and it’s pretty infrequent, I would spring for OEM ATF. I don’t really see a good reason not to.

 

Alrighty then. 70 year old hearsay. Great addition to the post. Thanks!

 

have over 87k on mine and runs fine, hasn't been changed yet and the maintenance manual does not state Replace at 25k, even at 60k it is only replaced if special conditions occur.