2TR-FE supercharger stuff

Just said over 200 which isnt that much. I figured it would at least gain 230 or so.

 

First my deepest apologies‼️
You can purchase whatever kit you desire! Even build your own or do a motor swap. But if you have read from the first post you know the possibility of failure. Again I’m showing more than I should but here’s up to approx 2500 red is stock the green is the Magnuson also the lower two lines are HP. The upper green one is the one that gets you out of the hole and is pretty flat but does still climb. Now go look at the URD. Remember it’s the second stage with no cats.
Oh, and if you look @ approx 2500 RPMs the stock HP is under 80 the Magnuson is under 120 HP that’s almost 40 HP @ 2500 RPMs. I don’t think that’s to bad considering the max stock HP is @ 150 to the wheels. Anyone else agree?

 

Any updates on when this may be available?

 

IDK if you’re asking me but our 07 reg. cab goes back to the tuner on the 27th. I’ve tried all kinds of speeds and throttle positions. I’m periodically getting a “hesitation” at about 3500 to 4000 RPMs. Plus it’s only been about 20 days since I last spoke about the time frame. I’m to take my 15 to the tuner so they can scan the ECU to see if the 15 can be flashed like they are doing on the 07.
Anyone know how the ECU’s have changed over the years?
I’m still up in the air about getting a Magnuson for our 2015. One reason is that the supercharger itself is on back order. I was told they were hoping to get 5 superchargers from Magnuson.

*Edit* As of 7-28-21 our Tacoma is still at the tuner getting out all the bugs.
Also chatting with the GM at the vendor he said their initial order delivery date has been pushed back from Magnuson. Sorry guys don’t shoot the messenger…

*Edit #2* As of the end of August I was told to come and get the truck they figured out that the bypass valve in the supercharger & the VVTi were not getting along. The vacuum line was removed from the bypass valve and the tuning was redone. It feels better at the lower end for DD duties.

Now for me personally it’s time to go from 215/70-15’s to 19” forged wheels w/ 1.7” taller rubber. Need 18” plus wheels to clear the new 2 piece StopTech’s. Remove 3.31 gear to install 3.73. Still waiting on new UCA & the rear notch to lower on Vikings. Need to install the LCE header and have an exhaust system made using a 5x8x14 & 6x12x22 Magnaflow’s. Plus install the Boost, AF gauges & other mis BS mods.

 

?

 

Patiently waiting......

 

Sorry but if you’re inquiring about the Magnuson system the vendor is still waiting on Magnuson and it sounds like it’s going to be awhile, sadly…

My wife gave me permission to have an LS L33 or an LS1 installed (Bucket List) if I sell one of the Tacoma’s. So depending on how I decide there might be an used Magnuson & two LCE headers (1 new & 1 used) for sale⁉️

 

Not inquiring, just stating my thoughts. I completely understand the wait, gives me more time to save more $ but if you are going to swap in an LS keep me in mind.

 

So after just under 10k miles, the Rotrex unit is making some familiar noises. It is on its way out - again.

Now before the "see, this is why _____ sucks" or "I would never buy/trust _____" bashing happens, I'd like to point out that this is NOT meant to be, in any way, a "bashing" post of any kind. I'm simply reporting what has happened to me, just to provide information if you have or are considering installing this particular system on your truck. Had I been provided the same information, I am sure it would have been helpful in my considerations. Let's try to be helpful without being hurtful.

In discussing this latest issue with the rebuilder, he sent me a copy of Rotrex's Technical Handbook. Of particular notice is how the serpentine belt should be oriented on the pulley. Notice that they recommend the belt be moved to the innermost rib on the pulley (lower image):

However, in the installation directions from URD, they say the belt needs to be on the outside rib, opposite of what the Handbook says (lower image):

I couldn't get a good picture of it, but 23mm from the supercharger bracket face (as mentioned in the Rotrex document) measures to just inside the center of the pulley - which means, when mounted on the outer rib of the pulley, the center of the serpentine belt sits over 23mm from the bracket face.

So I then tried to connect the charger in the belt system the way Rotrex describes. However, it cannot be run that way, as the belts strike the mounting bolt heads:


While there are 12 mounting holes on the bracket provided, I cannot simply rotate the charger mounting holes one hole over, as it rotates the charger by 30 degrees, which is too much of an angle to allow the internal oil pump to work properly (the maximum deviation from horizontal is just 15 degrees.) And while I could fit shorter/flush mounting screws, keep in mind that the kit was designed to run with the belt on the outside rib, so moving to the inside rib will likely create some twist in the serpentine belt (rib to rib on the pulley is a few mm I think), which in the best case scenario, will reorient itself to the outside rib, or in the worst case lead to other increasingly bad issues.

In reviewing more of the Technical Handbook, it says to prevent oil leakage, the charger should be higher than all other parts of the system (red print in second paragraph):


And, the blue cap of the traction fluid reservoir should be at the same height of the charger shaft (first box and description at bottom of page):


However, if installed as directed, the there is no way to get the blue cap at the charger shaft height, as it is flush with the fender well beneath it where it is currently mounted, and, at best, is at equal height to (or slightly higher than) the charger (charger circled red, reservoir circled blue):


All that to say, it seems that the mounting bracket for the Rotrex unit has the charger sitting too far back and too low in the system to be installed in compliance with Rotrex's Technical Handbook. Which means, if I get the unit repaired and reinstall it, I'll likely come to the same conclusion - unless the mounting bracket is modified and I relocate the oil reservoir.

I'm not sure what I'll do, to be honest. The truck is currently running without the charger connected and it is world's different to drive; will likely go the same route that others in my shoes have and begin assembling pieces to turbo. It was fun while it lasted, I guess.

To be continued. Let me know if you have any questions and hope this helps some.

 

Ok,
Fair enough but it is the design of the to small shaft from the drive pulley to the turbine that’s the issue, again sorry but if looks like a duck, walks like a duck & quacks like a duck, it’s a duck‼️
Now this is what my friend and I did with my Rotrex.
First I couldn’t find the correct length bolts so I ordered 10mm longer than the ones that came supplied with the supercharger. I then ordered Stainless “Flanged Button Head” bolts if memory serves me right I ordered 6x60 or 70mm. Then we cut them down in a lathe about 4 or 5mm longer than the button head bolts that were supplied and only 4 bolts hold the blower on the plate. Again if memory serves me I think the ones that come in the kit are 50 or 55mm long and only bite about 4 to 5mm of threads. After ordering and cutting down we use my friends laser light to check the alignment of the pulleys. Because I did read that (sorry to say excuse) from the manufacturer. The best we could tell it was within about 1/16 to 1/8” I did remove the “spacers” behind the idler pulleys that URD supplied in the kit. I pulled the seals in the sealed bearings and pack more lube then sealed up the bearings. Old MTB Titanium bottom brackets used the same bearings and I always service the bearings. An old machinist showed me how to remove the seals and service.
You can’t move the blower but you can lower the oil canister/tank about a 1” to 1.5”. The oil pump is in the blower and pumps the oil out the bottom. The oil cooler is what maybe 16” if that lower than the blower? The oil tank is just a few inches higher than the blower. If anything replace all the 5/16 oil lines & filter with 3/8. I’m no engineer but I *think* the smaller fuel sorry oil line has more restriction than the oil tank mounted a few inches above the blower.

Maybe check with this guy as they install Rotrex on Honda’s. Also note the GM @ the tuning shop that tuned the Magnuson system on my truck. Said one of his best friends went through 3 Rotrex blowers in one season of Racing. He said they went over the install with a fine tooth comb. There was no issues whatsoever with the installation. He said after the racing season was over they installed a turbo and haven’t had one issue sense. Trust me I feel your pain and the reliability of that unit is just flat embarrassing.
Good Luck!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SgOFISU4ydk

 

Hey! Knipex pliers!

 

Here's a picture I found on the web of a heavily pitted Rotrex shaft. I wonder if that traction fluid is the real problem with those setups but the shafts seem to take the real beating.

 

From everyone I have spoke to they all said the “Shaft Snap or Broke”.
Like I said before Carlo the GM at the shop that tuned the Magnuson said his buddy that lost 3 in a racing season all of then the shaft failed.

 

I think the shaft breaks when the main portion seizes (inside the fluid area) and the momentum transfers to that narrow portion which then snaps. It's a nice compact head unit, but obviously the design doesn't work properly or they wouldn't break so easily.

 

Maybe yes Maybe no. Because I know plenty that are more than religious about changing the fluid!
Sadly just face it it’s a piss poor design. URD started with Pro Charger then changed to the Rotrex, why?
Most likely they got a smoking deal from Rotrex. Someone also made Rotrex kits for the Mazda MX-5 2006-2015’s and they had the same issue. After word got out about the reliability issues the company stop producing the kits. Guys who paid $5,500 for the kits couldn’t sell used kits for $1000.
Someone who cares should contact LHC in FL. to see what they do. But I did see they posted a video of one that broke and they took it apart in the video. I’m betting they lose a lot too but just don’t talk about it to try to keep their sells up. Just like G try’s to cover up the issue. It’s easy to blame the end user. You didn’t do this or that so it’s your fault…
Now up sucker!
I’m done with this subject because I truly don’t think anything can fix poor engineering.

 

Rotrex units seem to be really hit or miss. Some guys run them for years without any issue, some not. Finicky might be a good word to describe them. However, in my mind there are flaws in the URD kit design (at least for our application) which is not set up to follow Rotrex’s “don’t do” list. Is it the sole cause of the issues? Maybe not, but it certainly makes failure more imminent.

I didn’t know URD used Procharger initially. I know they make a kit for the 4.0 but I haven’t heard any feedback on it, or Procharger for that matter.

I did reach out to LHT about a year ago referencing that Rotrex disassembly video and he said they hadn’t found a fix and had a few dead units in the shop, but he did mention he heard of a rebuilder in the UK, who I then reached out to who rebuilt mine.

The rebuilder has been the most help so far and has offered to help me get this remedied at minimal cost. I trust his work, but it makes no sense to get it fixed knowing I’ll be putting it back into a flawed system that almost guarantees it’s breakage.

It’s sad that there are so few options for our engine.

 

Yes it would be nice if someone made a Turbo kit for the truck!
Even the tech that came out to our house this past weekend to measure the cone on the Magnuson said an LS swap would be “Easier but not as cool” Well I don’t know about that!
I really feel an LS swap would be so cool! I saw an 240SX pull into a gas station and a BIG CROWD followed it in! The owner had all kinds of people asking to take pictures of the car and engine! I’ve never had that happen with a boosted motor!
The money I could get for the sale of the 2TR will more than pay for an LS. Yes they have some oiling issues but they are easily fixed.