Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

Really? Full cycle, no topping out w/out limiting via bump stop?

I had to hack a lot with 285/75r17, and FJ wheels. SPC UCA, CMC, flatten pinch weld, remold the fender liner, already had a plate bumper. Need to keep fender liners, or make some custom ones. I did come across a company that makes some. Could cut the fender if needed.
I always wonder how people handle the gravel beating up the wheel well and how much more gunk and salt gets stuck up in there.
midwest problems.

 

Kenda Klever RT has a 35x10.5r17, load range D. With true 3 ply sidewalls, quite a bit of tread depth, quiet on the highway, and good traction from what I can tell so far. Wear is good, but they do pickup and hold on to small gravels. I'm happy with mine, but don't have experience with a lot of other tires. I have had Toyo AT, Goodyear duratrac, BFG AT, and Nitto MT.

 

The skinny of the tire really helps with fitment

I have 35x10.5 kenda klevers on 17x7.5 +15 FJ wheels, no spacers, stock bumps on my 4th gen 4runner, so similar wheel wells to 2nd gen and probably 3rd gen. I pulled shocks and cycled bump to droop and lock to lock to confirm fitment. I cut most of the fender liner out, hammered the pinch welds, and cut the front and rear of the flares to fit. Not on LT, so they sucked up behind the flares due to the positive offset and little baby control arms. I'd definitely have to cut the bottom of flare/top of wheel well with more offset or LT. With cams pushed forward and SPC arms set to F, no body mount chop with plenty of clearance between tire and body mount. The do rub the frame a teenie bit at full lock where there is the weld joint for that crossmember.

They do grab gravel like nobody's business and it does scare the shit out of you when one decides to work itself free at 60mph. Thankfully target is paved

 

Got the alignment done and all locked in. With stock lowers at the full 1 inch forward I seem to max out at about 4 caster without going too positive on camber. This is with ome 884’s so I have about an inch lift in the front. Without the lift I could get better caster. Crazy how big of a difference the caster makes with driving. My brain still can’t fully understand the cams for some reason but I am pretty sure I have them right to get the most outward position.

For the skid I went to go get some socket cap screws. Is there a reason the kit doesn’t come with these as it’s obvious the holes are drilled for them?

 

I have my cams opposite of yours. Bolt closer out. Not entirely sure it matters as your alignment looks fine and mine also come out fine.

 

In what ways do you feel like they aren't on par with a wider tire? Just curious

 

Soft ground they were terrible. Wanted to dig more than anything.

 

The aluminum skids always come with flush head Allen’s and the steels come with standard bolts

 

Mine came with the grade 8 bolts. But I just went and bought some. No worries.

 

Weird I haven't had that problem at all in the pnw mud, sand, and snow. Most limiting thing I've had with skinnies is the tires spinning on the wheel at low psi

 

So from my understanding, once you get the alignment set, and run the bolt through the cams, you should never need another alignment?

 

Technically correct, unless you bend/tweak something else.

 

Have you ran a wide tire to compare? My 37x12.50’s will cruise on beach sand in 2wd. 255’s I would have been buried to the frame in 2 and had a hard time in 4. Just my experience with it. But narrow is nice for fitting.

 

That's what I figured. What if you went from stock length with this setup to +2 later? would you need to redo the alignment by pulling the bolt, welding the hole (since I'm assuming these are self-tappers) and then run a new location?

 

No it’s a bolt with a locknut. But yeah if you have to get realigned then you would have to re-drill the hole.

 

Yeah I've ran pretty much every size on multiple different rigs from 42x15s to tiny 30x9.5s. From light crawlers, to 5-6k lb heavy wheelers and now my current 5600lb tacoma. Never really noticed digging more with the skinnies, but obviously with a larger diameter tire with the same width, you will have more squish/float in total.

 

That makes more sense. Thanks for the clarification.

 

Nope.....your cams are set for the 60% inward position. But the alignment is good enough where its at. But a bit of negative camber is better for offroad applications.
Just noticed that your drivers side rear is setup funky....the front side looks as if its set for most outward but the other side (rear of the same bushing) is set for most inward

 

Well had em right the first time then before I flipped them. Oh well, I will re-do it when I get LT. It’s good enough for now. I might need Harry to explain it to me in person when I go get the slide rack because I just can’t wrap my head around it for some reason.