TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Just a Magnuson in the near future

 

Some truth to that... but on the same token what if you were going to supercharge it? Same opinion?

I'm trying to decide how deep to go. Obviously if the gasket lets go I have to go all the way in or get a replacement engine, both of which are more expensive and harder later. I have headers, cam gears, engine/trans mounts, csf radiator, and thinking of doing timing chain tensioners if not also the chains depending on how they look, along with a magnuson and the supporting mods. If you are going to do all that other stuff, it is easier with the heads off, and going for the headgaskets is insurance you won't have to take it apart again or have it fail a million miles from nowhere on a multi day expedition trip with the whole family on board...

So I feel like I could install blower, and it would be possible to do all the other stuff,, but don't like doing things twice, when going in deep it is not much extra effort to do some things at the same time compared to doing them separately.

I would appreciate some additional feedback, if you were in these shoes.

 

The updated head gaskets that Toyota made has been solid. The majority of the guys who have damaged their engines and done rebuilds have done so due to the fact that they either threw a rod or bent a valve, not blown a gasket that I can remember. If you slap on the blower and are going to be pulling a lot of the upper engine apart, might as well do the head gaskets if you are higher mileage at this point.

 

Picked up a shift knob, cabin air filter, and oil filter for less than $90 !
Ty

 

In your case, if I had the time and money I would go through the motor and just check everything, if anything looked like it should be replaced I would do it. I think you would be fine if you didn’t do all that, you just have to understand the history of your motor. Have you followed regular oil changes and treated her well with maintenance? If so you are probably fine, but don’t do anything crazy like swap the smallest pulley on and drive like a race car from signal to signal.

Like for me I have opened up my intake and exhaust, I opted for the 2.85 stealth and eventually I may go to a 2.7 but I might just do the quick swap hub and go to the 2.8. In my altitude I can hit like 5.8 psi which is more than enough, especially for stock head bolts. I don’t drive crazy but I am not afraid to get on it every now and then. I use good oil, make the best effort to monitor my AFRs when boosting as well as engine temps.

Again, your head gasket has made it this far, but I agree I wouldn’t really feel super comfortable throwing boost into it knowing that toyota dropped the ball on the initial headgasket design. The peace of mind is probably worth it to swap it out. I don’t think it’s common to have timing chain issues on these motors so I would probably just leave that alone. Just my two cents.

 

Here is my contribution to the o2 sensor conversation. I have been waiting to start the job. Quoted at 22 hours.
Open circuits in the harness for the o2 sensors on bank 2. New harness install.


Starting to come out

 

Denso actually has a good lookup of what part number goes for your truck, upstream and down. I found that they actually changed part numbers in 2005, I happen to be the early one and use the sensors highlighted, but other year trucks use completely different part numbers.



These are on Amazon for a decent price.

$124 Denso 234-9051 Right-Bank Upstream with 4-Wire 8.5” Option Air Fuel Ratio Oxygen Sensor

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018JUJ9O

$47 Denso 234-4260 Oxygen Sensor

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00199FBQY

$45 Denso 234-4261 Oxygen Sensor with 4-Wire 10” Harness for Lexus/Toyota V-6 Downstream Left/Front

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016NBBQW

Looks like around $308 for all 4, but more than likely you only need front sensors, $220.

 

I have already opened up the intake, and will have headers, modified Y, and good exhaust to go on. Already shaved for the quickchange hub, will be starting with the 2.8 pulley. Might go 2.7, but have a 2.5 as well, although not sure I want to go down that far.

My truck is REEEEAALLLY heavy with camping/expedition gear. I want power to pull up hills on the highway. Will never be racing around anywhere, and will likely never ever see redline type rpms or wide open throttle at high RPMs. but the challenge, is if at high elevation, mountain grades, can I get boost to make the truck be able to pull the hill without a total nose over in speed and downshifting. Right now it is pretty bad even with 4.56 and 35s.

I feel the engine is under WAY more stress and heat and such when trying to go up a 5% grade for 15 miles on a 75mph road (yes I have that in AZ), than it is going through a few gears on a lightweight truck from a stop...

BTW, does ARP make a good head bolt kit for the 4.0?

 

Leaking coolant out the head gaskets … that blows.

 

My truck is the same man.. here in Az. I'd do a headgasket and have no reservations of boosting after that. trust me.

 

Just get new a/f sensors. I got mine from Toyota. F the 02 sensors. They just read if the cats working. Don’t have cats. Hp tuners shut off codes for the O2 sensors lol. Saves money.

 

Sold already

 

Been meaning to get ahold of you to talk heavy truck suspension and blower related things... would like to see how you did your coolant pump. Perhaps I can come over to your place sometime and chat. We are both in Chandler. And you win BTW, your truck is nicely setup for camping and lighter weight (even though most non expedition folks would call it heavy), but I have gear and supplies for a family of 4 for many days off grid, and my junk is WAY heavier than yours is, trust me. I bet mine empty is what yours is fully loaded (for a trip)

 

Makes sense to me. I’m not sure your elevation but I’m usually around 1500-1600 ft, and the 2.85 has treated me well. I have been doing some “OvErLaNdInG” (I hate that word) recently and with a rtt and other supplies I have noticed my truck struggles more going up hills. I will probably try the 2.8 and 2.7 to see if that gives me enough boost to pull hills easier with out down shifting like how it used to be when the truck was mostly empty. I agree on doing the headgasket now knowing your truck is that heavy so it’s definitely working hard all the time, even if not at red line. The blower will help it generate the power needed to overcome those issues for sure, but it sounds like it will be boosting often so probably better safe than sorry on that headgasket.

 

yes that is what I agree on. the truck is working hard just to move at freeway speed on flat ground. In fact, I can monitor the open/closed loop status with scan guage, and it almost is never in closed loop unless going downhill

The fact the engine is working hard all the time is the thing that makes me concerned. And this isn't a "fun truck" that I use for daily... it is a dedicated rig, so everytime I use it I'm going someplace far, with a family... and I don't want to deal with a headgasket issue and a tow all the way home from someplace that is way far away or way far from the nearest pavement.

 

We can definitely get together. I may be around this weekend working on the camper actually. I'll shoot you a message when I am. I'd be interested to see what they weigh. I know mine has to be over 6k.. Hell, I'll go to the dump this weekend and weigh it. And honestly our truck's are set up similarly I bet. 13 gallons of water. Tools. Spare parts. Need to finish ordering parts and install my dual battery. Solar. The rear bumper is 400+ lbs alone. It all adds up.. you know how it goes. And it all lives in there full time... So I can go anytime. Lol

All I'm saying is I have complete confidence in the truck on our long trips and in general with the powertrain and I believe you should too. It has plenty of power (even with the 4.56s and 35s) to drive through the mountains just fine. No crazy downshifting or anything at all. Plus a Justin Tune.. it's Tits. I think you should slap some head gaskets on it and install that blower already.. coming from an Overthinker... Just do it. Lol let's have a Beer this weekend and talk trucks.

 

Overthinker, that is me 100%. And slow to do anything and hence the huge buildup of parts and projects. but sent you a PM, yes lets see if we can talk this weekend

 

@racebug68 If the engine internals stay stock then I’d just go new OEM head gaskets. Cometic if you are upgrading internals. Keeping the rev limiter below 6k is probably the one of the best insurances for stock internals on the 1GR-FE.

 

We need to make a batch of custom intake castings to our TRD SC. Move air filter to the driver side and make a straight shot to the rotors.

And a batch of castings to fit a larger TRD intercooler over the intake manifold!