Is the 2022 V6 exactly the same as the 2021?

Not going to disagree with that.

Shy of running side by side tests with a flow bench, it could be assumed that the K&N fully loaded flows enough to keep the truck motor happy enough to maintain the 17-18mpg since day one. All while filtering enough to keep the combustion chamber clean.

Makes no sense, but it is what it is.

No way I am taking this gamble with my gen 3. These new motors with all the sensors are too risky IMO.

 

We are talking about filters, I think that includes anything from particle separators, to n95 masks. Why pigeon hole ourselves to one industry or vocation when we can live in the pure chaos of the internet?

 

Perfect was a loose term. Please don't take it as a matter of fact.

My point was that whatever filtration I got from the uncleaned K&N in my '97 Taco was probably no different than 25 years of disposable OEM filters.

250k+ miles is no sneeze on a Toyota motor. Looking forward to another 100k with the same exact filter.

I wonder if K&N would be willing to buy the filter back from me when the engine finally shits the bed. You know for research purposes.

 

I'm quite passionate when it comes to filters and fluids, they should not be overlooked or skimped on imo. Especially given how inexpensive it is the get good filters and fluids. Is the the 10 extra dollars for a quality filter really going to break the bank given the vital job they perform in your engine? Same thing with oil. Oil performs the most critical role in your engine, it seems unwise to push the oil change interval or to buy cheap oil.

 

Your assumptions are challenged by countless hours in the lab, there is absolutely no way your uncleaned K&N would ever even remotely clean intake air as well as 25 years of OEM filters.

 

Completely agree.

 

Yet another common misconception regarding fuel economy, in a modern OBD-II fuel injected engine, the presence of an air filter, dirty, clean, or even no air filter at all, will make no difference in fuel economy. Modern engines measure the weight of the intake charge and then dispense the correct amount of fuel accordingly.

 

While you are scientifically correct and could probably school every car owner until they cry in fetal position, I am merely giving you what I am working with.

I can't argue with my truck. It just keeps on keep'n on as if I fed it OEM filters it's whole career. It is what it is, right or wrong.

 

Thank you, I am quite aware of how EFI works, your highness.

What normal indicators would you suggest a person use to gauge whether their air flow and air filtration is sufficient or dangerously catastrophic.

Please tell me when exactly my motor will die and what the cause will be from.

You seem to know all, so I trust you.
That's how that works, right?

 

Oil analysis is good for that. It will tell you how much dust is in the oil. Filtration is a give and take relationship, your engine will run best with no filter at all. It will also wear a lot faster. As far as when it will fail, I think its a game of chance. I may fail or never fail, or fail in a way that has nothing to do with the filter. You can only try to decrease the chance that it will fail.

 

Kind if my point here. Where does a person draw the line on micro managing an unknown?

I have never bothered with oil analysis in any vehicle I've owned, as I am not trying to track down any issues.

The regularly scheduled oil changes have always looked normal, and the motor is still tight.

Honestly, what would I gain from tossing the K&N and moving to an OEM air filter?

Whether it is perfect or not, it works. And it's been working for 25 years with no indication of other.

 

Does KDMAX have a tune option for intakes?
Velocity stacks and tubes can change the velocity profile and what the MAF is reading; under-reporting mass air to the ECU.
Here's a link to a guy tinkering with a 2GR-FE...
https://wilhelmraceworks.com/blog/2gr-power-gains

 

I don't regularly do analysis either. Its just a way you could try to measure the effects of a filter. Just because you haven't noticed anything wrong doesn't mean nothing is. For instance there isn't a way to see if your bearings have high wear, until it starts knocking, but by then its to late. All you can do is try to prevent that wear. When it starts to knock all you can say is, maybe it would have went farther if you had used oem filters.

 

The tune learns factors like driving style, octane, and MAF I believe. But the best way to find out is to ask the makers of the tune. They willl be happy to answer any questions you have. I don't want to give any false info.

 

If you truly believe an air filter can impact fuel economy, then you clearly do not have a complete understanding of how modern EFI systems operate.

 

No, I don't believe an air filter in and of itself impacts the fuel economy directly.

It is what happens to a motor that isn't filtered well and allowed to grind itself into a lower compression situation over time.

With lower compression comes less overall power.

With less power comes a heavier foot to attempt in making up for the lack of power.

The heavier foot directly effects the fuel economy.

Simple chain reaction of events.

Now, since you are so insistant in being the head mechanic in the air filtration department, please answer my question asked of you earlier.

"What normal indicators an average person might have available to them would you suggest they use to gauge whether their air flow and air filtration is sufficient or dangerously catastrophic."

 

"The heavier foot directly effects the fuel economy."
And once again you show your lack of understanding of how modern EFI systems work. The amount of air going into an engine is the only thing which impacts fuel metering; said another way, it matters not whether the throttle is 25% open and there is no air filter restriction, or if the air filter is hugely restricted and the throttle is wide open; if the amount of air going into the intake is the same, the fuel economy and power will be the same.

If you would like to do a little studying; here is a comprehensive publicly available study on the subject:

• http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/pdfs/Air_Filter_Effects_02_26_2009.pdf

 

Your air box is a very well designed part of your engine system. Leave it be. Please for your sake, as it costs me nothing, study on what the people here have figured out the hard way.
There are computer tunes that can do what you want, but seamlessly.

 

Out of curiosity, I read through the PDF to see if I would learn anything new.

Nope, the tests that they performed where what I would have expected, as I understand how EFI works with or without an air filter, clogged or new.

This whole PDF missed an opportunity to educate on one important variable to fuel economy.

So let's answer one question at a time.

-What is the purpose of an air filter?

 

I figured your response would be dismissive; you can believe what you want to believe; my point in refuting the things you've posted is to make sure others who read your words don't make back decisions based in incorrect information. This ends my involvement in this silly discussion.