X-Runner No Start - P0102 & P0335

Looks about right...hmmm. Thanks!

 

Went searching through my old photos, then you found that. Well done.

 

Not sure how I overlooked this (maybe because the new hole was drilled & tapped pretty darn well?) but it appears not only is the idler busted, but it appears the PO broke off the top tensioner bolt, then drilled a hole nearby instead. Definite concerns about timing jumping now as the tensioner was pretty much at it's limit. Damn.

 

WTF?

The previous owner took the time to drill and tap a NEW hole.
That’s like mak8ng it worse, before you even try to make it better?


I’d at least tried to get the broken bolt out.
I would have tried to find a bushing, put it into the tensioner bolt hole, and make a “guide” for the drill bit.

 

Dang man that sucks, at least it looks like it's on the cylinder head so maybe you can just do the head instead of the whole engine?

 

Has someone been inside those heads before?
I see “KP” stamped on them?

 

Dang it

 

I was told "rebuilt motor, heads redone, new gaskets and timing kit". Definitely appears that was all correct with how clean the internals are. I'm now seeing the reassembly aspect of it was lacking and potentially took out a really nice engine.

Bought it without starting it because the clutch was constantly engaged. PO extended the slave cylinder rod to try to fix his Competition Clutch problems for some reason. It was then I should have expected the worst.

 

What's the plan for the bolt hole?

Are the threads still in the hole, but just he head broken off? Is it removable, so that you can get a new bolt in?

 

Looks like a dremel disk was taken to the bolt hole to maybe get a flat head on it, which also ground into the head too. And then gobs of RTV to seal the mess/tensioner to the head. I'm going to throw some heat into it and try a flathead, otherwise try the bushing method above to drill and tap or do something similar to how distributors are held into engine blocks as a last resort...

 

I have faith you'll have success.

 

Looks like the guy drilled a hole for a 6x1.0 to brace the top side of the tensioner. It may have backed out or was never installed and they just got out of there

Ugh, what a can of worms

 

Yea that is some hackery "repair" there, could have welded a nut to the broken bolt, drilled it or worst case send to a machine shop for extraction instead of destroying the head and then patching it together.

 

If you have access to a MIG welder/Flux that welded nut is an easy option.

80 in-lbs is all those two bolts need.....

 

Well to wrap this one up with a leak down...

Cylinder 1 & 3 have 50-70% retention. Not wasting my time going any further. Most likely some bent valves. Time to decide whether to swap in a rebuild or an LS to this X-Runner. Appreciate all the help, not the outcome I had hoped for considering the cleanliness of this engine.

 

Thread revival. Rebuilt the "rebuilt" head, slapped it on along with a new MAF and same issue. MAF code is gone now but crank code P0335 still remains. Truck will barely fire for a second and then sputter out immediately regardless of throttle input still.

However. Some new progress. I accidentally forgot to plug in the cam sensors while putting the timing cover back on and the engine will fire right up, rev like a brand new engine, tach still works. Crank code disappears and 4 cam sensor codes pop up (obviously). What this all means I haven't a clue now.

 

What code number(s) are you getting now?

 

If I were to guess, I bet p0011, p0012, p0021 and p0022 along with the still remaining p0335.
I know I shouldn’t guess, but I think we really need a scope to see that crank signal.

I feel for you OP. Hopefully you can get to the bottom of this issue.

 

P0340, P0343, P0345, and P0348. Crank sensor P0335 does not pop up with the cam sensors disconnected.

 

https://youtube.com/shorts/htnN80w4n70?feature=share

Video of it running without cam sensors. Cold start.