TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Might consider timing chain and chain tensioners sensuous in there.

 

Thats a giving for sure. Would there be any valve train component upgrades such as certain brand stem seals and what not. I'm not really seeing anything yet, but I just started the research two days ago..

 

I’ll have to go back and look, are those included in the master gasket kit? I have never really seen Oem valve seal failure. I’d have to go OEM all the way

 

guys, thinking about a motor build myself. would it matter if i used a core from 2007?
i can get one for 200$ still runs but has leaking head gasket. just kicking the idea around. whats parts and labor for a good build?

 

Good build would be about 15,000 and a basic build with just forged pistons and some head work would be about 8-10

 

Maybe there’s a really basic build out there, but It won’t have all the go fast goodies in it

 

i get it. pay to play. wanted stock bore with high rev potential.

 

Sounds like you want to step into a forged crank. The main kit on the market is about $6000 for the reciprocating assembly alone. Then you’re going to want Cam’s that’s a couple grand. And we haven’t even talked about sleeves yet.

 

got the cams!

 

Hey, you’re halfway there

 

makes an ls swap seem realistic.

 

Tesla swap would be better.

 

I'm not aware of ARP head bolts. Link? I am aware of ARP stud kit that seems to be unique and only sold through LCE. "pro stud kit" that has been linked in this thread, I called, they are out of stock and no ETA. Could be tomorrow, could be next year.

 

Only $40k!

https://electricgt.com/shop/the-ultimate-tesla-swap-package/

 

Good morning my boosted friends! So need a little advice. So 10k miles (at 165k at time of disassembly) and almost a year later I've finally gotten around to pulling the heads off the truck due to the misfire I was having (described above). Heads are currently at a machine shop to get re-worked. Upon pulling the heads off, I noticed some slight discoloration on some of the cylinder walls (see below, haven't rotated the crank to check the others yet). I had a mechanic say the discoloration may be due to detonation and essentially "ovaling" of the bore. You can still see the crosshatching so I doubt it's anything to be overly concerned about; additionally, those cylinders compression was within spec. Just want to make sure its nothing to be concerned about before I put it all back together. Which brings up my options if it is a concern:

1. Get heads re-worked, slap it all back together and call it a day - this option is going to cost about $2500-$3000 by the time machine work is completed, new OEM seals/gaskets, head studs, water pump, timing chain, etc. Going this route, is there anything in addition I need to replace? I know Toyota had a recall on the 14-15 for the exact issue I had, am wondering if there has been a problem with valve springs or any of the other valve train that may be contributing to that that I should replace while its rebuilt.

2. Cancel the head work (they haven't started yet), invest $$ into a low mileage used motor - this will cost $4-5k depending.

I need to figure this out relatively soon as I want to take advantage of the 25% off sale that Toyota is having through the 23rd I believe.

Also, I noticed some unique wear on one of the cam bearings (seen below). It cant be felt with your fingernail but figured I would post and see what y'all had to say.

Once all back together I plan on getting a proper tune for it (datalog remote tune or physical street tune).

Any other advice/suggestions would be greatly appreciated as well. Enjoy this video of the last trip of her ripping before she got tore down Make sure you turn the sound up to hear that beautiful whine https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7yPo8E4v8Co


Unique cam bearing wear. Intake cam


Head with misfire. Cyl #5 had low compression (right most in pic)


Close up of valves on cyl #5. No obvious visual damage to exhaust valves.


Discoloration on cyl #2


Cyl #6, no discoloration


Cyl #3, discoloration

 

And throw your timing off if you do to much.

 

My own vale seals failed. I was consuming 1qt every 1000 miles.

 

I say get the engine rebuild kit, I did. Lol! But the kit has all. The new gasket is .0255
As for the valve seals someone was asking about. Use vitron seals. I found them on rock Auto cheap.
@MonkeyProof
@racebug68


Here are some of the others in the kit.

 

You might want to quote who this is directed towards Russ. Are you responding to @Gilmorec61 ??