BassAckwards' AWD Turbo 2TR-FE

Is your SAIS block-off leaking?

Any check engine lights?

 

I am leaning towards a "lifter" issue. One of your previous shared images showed the lifters installed and they looked completely dry. The lifters should be stored in oil prior to installation, and even actuated while immersed in oil to flush out any air or contaminants that may be stuck in them.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yUoRNZmhovE

Or if you prefer, Jafro

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zu60ExxQjlg

 

Thanks for the heads up, yeah i screwed up on that one it seems. I guess cams will be coming out again in the next few days

Pretty sure not and exhaust leak at this point. And no check engine lights. I think Alyn hit the nail on the head on this one. Last time I did the head gasket job I submerged the lifters in oil, but for some reason I didn’t this time around. The tick was also there last time but it went away after just a couple of minutes. This time around it didnt..

 

May need to pull some lifters, and prime them. Pulling the valve cover and looking at the lash should let you know how many would need that.

 

I pulled the ones out of my old head and have them soaking in oil. Gonna pull the cams and swap them all out whenever i have some time. Hoping for some smooth sailing after that

 

Make sure to purge them. Just soaking isnt a guarantee they will be contaminant and air free on install and you've already been through enough, so be thorough in prepping them!

 

I’ll definitely be sure to do this, I’m ready for this to be over, so whatever it takes to get this job done

 

Watch the Jafro video I posted to get a full OCD level cleaning and inspection procedure. All good things to know as you delve into custom engine building.

My block has been sitting for a while, so im gonna tear it all the way down and clean everything and re-lube before I swap it just to avoid any problems.

 

Just watched them both, lots of good info. To be clear, after cleaning and priming, if they are hard and I’m not able to compress them by hand, then they should be good to go right?

that’s a good idea, definitely easier to do while it’s all apart

 

Correct, if they are unable to be compressed by hand, you should be good to go! Any leakage found, will result in a failure down the road, so it is advised that you replace any that show any signs of leakage or deformation.

It's a simple process, but with many steps! Good luck!

 

@BassAckwards whay power steering fluid do you use?

 

Here’s what I keep in the truck. It’s A/T fluid

 

Booo I can't use atf with my pcs pump. Im currently using royal purple lol

 

Lol that’s what I got! Great minds think alike lol!

 

I mean, it DOES say #1 ATF brand

 

Quick update, got the hurt motor on the stand today and took the pans off. Bent the connecting rod on cylinder one, that took off the oil squirter for the piston, and then the crank counter weights started to eat the bottom of the piston.

 

Ouch

 

I could see that making a bit of noise.

 

Were you able to get that rod/piston out of the cylinder? I'd like to see uncle Rodney.

Plus that'll give you access to viewing the whole amount of damage. As in how recoverable the damage is.

 

Here is a positive note. You get to keep saving money, by re-using the ARP head studs.