Cab mount chop for offset

Hello all,

I have been looking for information on whether I need to do a body mount chop or cab mount chop. I'm looking at a 3 inch lift with 33s and a -12 offset. Is a cab mount chop and body mount chop the same thing? Is this all that has to be done to clear this setup? If anyone has a good how-to video/blog they can attach that would be helpful. First time doing this so trying to get everything sorted.

Thank you

 

It'll be different, to an extent, for every person's truck, but the general rule of thumb around here is a cab mount chop is needed to clear 33's (granted you intend to flex the suspension from time to time). If you fully intend to do it yourself, I'd recommend test fitting your wheel setup and seeing if it rubs or not. You could be one of the lucky few that don't have to have it. Your alignment plays a lot into this, and is the reasoning many who lift/go larger tires need aftermarket UCAs with built in caster.

That being said, expect to do some plastic trimming as well within the wheel well if needed. As for CMC "how-to's", I'm sure a few threads exist, but a youtube video is always more helpful than pictures to me.

 

Thank you, is that the only chop that's needed? and does this affect warranty?

 

I'm pretty sure the cap mounts were extended so far out on these as part of the crash safety ratings for the trucks. The actual body mount sits quite a ways in from the end of the mount. Will it affect warranty? I would think it would be more of a liability issue if anyone was injured in an accident due to modifying it. And if you're running 33's you have are playing with warranty voiding stuff anyway. Your truck, you make the decision.

I had to chop mine on my old 4Runner when I put 285's on. Not a big deal at all if you can weld. There's several companies that sell premade plates to weld in that are so inexpensive it wasn't worth my time to fab up my own.

 

Thats the only chop I've ever heard of, unless you consider trimming some plastic bits a chop. As far as warranty, I can't think of any scenario that a CMC would void a warranty, but rest assured if something were in question and Toyota could link it back to your mods, they would so they wouldn't have to pay, and rightfully so. I'd say if you're willing to modify suspension components/ride height/driveline angles/things that actually could affect other components of the truck negatively, a CMC is a relatively low risk mod. It could be argued that the cab mount helps deflect a tire in a specific type of crash, but thats not exactly a warranty issue.

Best bet is to mount the wheels/tires on the truck, turn the wheel full lock, trim anywhere that contacts. Many find they only contact the cab mount at full lock in reverse or another really specific circumstance, and decide to just leave it. I intend to go to 33's on my next set of tires, and I don't plan to CMC unless its just needed for daily driving. I don't do much offroading, so its not a huge concern to me if the tires rub only at full compression/full lock/etc. But I'm also very willing to do it if its just a necessity. And it'll be much more of a necessity if you don't have aftermarket UCA's that allow for more caster to bring the wheel further forward away from the CM.

 

Thanks, helped a lot. Might just go with a 0 offset so I don't have to do all this and risk voiding anything in the future because really, i would be cutting into the frame a bit.

 

Not to persuade your decision, and I'm no expert, but I'd go with what you truly want to start with. I'm sure someone else could chime in with some precise math and reasoning on why 0 offset would or wouldn't be any better or worse, but I'm under the impression your alignment specs are going to be more of a factor to work with. I understand offsets do play a role, but your tire size will remain the same, so there are some aspects of rubbing that will be present with either wheel choice. At the end of the day, you MAY get lucky and need minimal trimming to clear them, but its just safer to understand going into it that your probably will need to trim. There are just way too many factors at play to say one particular setup fits all. Thats why the general consensus is 32's are the largest you can go with no trim needed, but I needed trimming even with 32's, so again, its different to an extent per truck.

Edit: and if I had it to do all over again, I would've bought 33's to start with, regardless of what it took to clear them.

 

I've done the research and talked with the guy at the shop I'm planning to do work at, and he says the 3 inch lifts we are looking at are rated to fit up to a 33 inch tire with 0 offset. The - offset is what throws off the spacing while turning.

 

This all is indeed useful info. I've got a year or so left on the warranty on my truck, and fully intend to go with a 2.5" - 3" ADS lift and some BFG MT 285/75/17s. With the offset of the rims I'm going to use, I'm hoping to get away without a CMC. Regardless of what I end up with, this is all useful info

 

Good deal; make sure to post back with results and pics!

 

Besides other issues I think the challenge with increasing offset (or adding spacers) is that it increases scrub radius which then increases the risk of contact with the front and rear of the wheel well. It also increases the risk of contact with the fender flare, but I’ve mostly heard people reporting that issue with 35+ inch tires.

I have not tried to fit 285 width 33s but I did research the option. The risk of rubbing issues without a CMC and pinch weld fold seemed high and it wasn’t worth it to me for +30mm of tire width. I went with 255 width 33s instead.

FYI: a cab mount chip and a body mount chop are the same thing. They are both a modification of the body mount at the rear of the wheel well. You might also have to modify the pinch weld at the rear of the wheel well and possibly trim some of the plastic fender liner. There are many videos on YouTube.

 

At that offset with the right alignment you will probably be okay until you go off road. You may get away with just some plastic trimming. I would Get a set of SPC UCA's. It's worth it. It gives more flexibility to align the wheel by giving you an additional alignment point at the upper ball joint. You can then push the wheel forward a bit during alignment.

 

Well, here I am. 285/70/17 with 0 offset...

 

Is that the 3" lift you mentioned?

 

Yes, Icon stage 3 adjusted to about 3 inches.

 

Right there is what I have found over the years of modding vehicles. Although this is my first Tacoma, the rule still applies; get what you want from the jump and youll stand a lot better chance of being happy in the end. Just my 2 pence.

 

You won't need it if you run SPC UCAs. Set the SPC ball joint too G setting. Max the LCAs completely pushing tires all the way forward. Then correct the camber eyeballing it as much as possible with the SPC camber adjustment and TQ ball joint to 220ftlbs. Then have an alignment shop fine tune. Will have multiple inches of clearance at the cab mount.

 

Thank you.............Im thinking Icon or ADS when my warranty runs out. All the info collected here is very useful indeed.

 

Whatever either lift I go with I think that idea is a winner and definitely plan on going with adjustable UCAs.

 

surprisingly my installer said he had to cut some plastic in the front wheel well, which I did not think was necessary with the lift, but I guess it was minimal cutting for a bit of rub.