Recommendations needed:

Well that's the starter, and above that is head gasket
Main seal could also be leaking into flywheel and flinging oil
Hopefully it was just the valve cover because those other two are not going to be fun

 

I have a feeling it is the main seal along with a worn flywheel/components cause clutch is slipping bad. I posted in a previous thread describing my issue, the fine folks of TW informed me of the problem.

 

I learned how to drive stick with this truck. Which I learned quickly I might add. I would stall out often but it's lasted me almost 2 years. I have no idea if and when it's ever been serviced

 

Just to clarify a couple of things - factory is thin rubber isolator correct?
The part above says 0.75" thickness but I assume this includes part that protrudes through the spring perch. So is lift from this negligible compared to stock? Description says simple way to get lift but I assume they are exaggerating.

Reason ask is I did not bother to source the OEM rubber isolator but I get squeaking and pretty sure its coming from this ares because when I spray with WD40 it goes away for a while.

Thanks

Edit - Looked at the OEM parts diagram and don't see the rubber part, actually I think I got the rubber isolator with a earlier spacer lift. Also looked at my truck and it does not really look like the springs are touching the bolts because of where the coil ends. I think these are a "nice to have" but not essential?

Also noticed my Bistein shock top bushings are cracking so either new bushing or shock also.

 

So many leaks

 

Not really, it could've just flung itself everywhere.

Clean and degrease everything. The cleaner things are, the easier it is to locate the source of any leaks.

 

Actually that's not all that bad, its actually fairly difficult to get this engine leak free. I'm surprised that you don't have any oil on the pan, that's almost unheard of. I got mine leak free for a a few years but then it starts again because some of the earlier fixes fail again. Here are all the easy fixes (assuming 3.4L)-

Valve cover gaskets but in my experience if you don't also replace and FIPG the cam seals it won't make much difference. If valve cover gaskets leaks badly you will see and smell it on the exhaust manis. Leaks from cam seals go down the back of the engine. You should be able to see if fresh oil leaks by using a mirror at the back of the heads. First time I did my valve cover gaskets w/o doing cam seals it did not make much difference - only stopped the burning oil on manis. A lot of people/mechanics don't do the cam seal because its not in the FSM valve cover gasket section.

Oil cooler - has a o-ring against the engine that only lasts about 10 years, I'm due for my second replace. Fairly easy fix, mine was brittle at 10 years. You can probably see if its leaking by removing the inner fender liner but maybe order the clips or whatever there called because they often don't hold after removal. Thats also how to access cooler.

Oil filler cap seal, this one took quite a while to isolate because I did not know it could be a leak source. Mine was hard as a rock after 10 years, in fact I was really embarrassed because it was so hard it looked like it was part of the cap and I thought I lost the original gasket so I could not understand why the cap would not go on with new gasket - because I had 2 on there!

Dipstick o-ring - probably not a leak source but so easy to replace and mine was hard as a rock.

Of course if you replace timing belt there is crank seal and cam seals, I suspect most mechanics won't do this unless you ask.

If you tackle all the above and assuming your rear main seal is Ok I don't know of any other common leak points. There is the oil pressure sender but that rarely leaks AFIK. I have found if I don't really crank the oil filter about as hard as I can using my hand + paper towel it will leak.

 

Just got an offer for $8k on my truck lol

 

Lots of good information here thank you!!

 

If we’re talking about leaks


Has anyone mentioned the back axle around the third?

 

No, gasket?

 

Just looks leaky

 

Anyone know where I can get a flywheel?
13405-75040 part#
My clutch just went out, I have everything else but that. My local Toyota dealer doesn't carry them and I reallllyyyy don't wanna have to get a duralast from autozone.

 

probably have to get online, where I live online Toyota is half price vs over the counter.

A lot of people use McGeorge Toyota parts, be sure to enter FREESHIP code and VIN. I used an online dealer near me and sometimes I get the parts next day even with free shipping. It seems most of the time the parts are shipped direct to me from a regional warehouse but nevertheless it may impossible to predict delivery day if you are in a hurry.

You could call to check but they usually won't give you online prices if you place a phone order.

What happened to the flywheel?

 

I found a LUK brand for 107 the mechanic said I'd need to replace it as well ‍

 

Idk if I'm being fucked with. But I have the AISIN clutch kit and master cylinder from rockauto already. The smell for the clutch is something horrid

 

Also when installing the strut mounts thay were recommended in this thread. Do I just unbolt to remove shock and spring, compress the spring place mount and slowly release spring in place and bolt?

 

I'll check out the flywheel when we take it off. Whonknow might be fine. This spot I'm at in El Monte Detroit Auto Supply send em out to get resurfaced for $35

 

Sounds like the mech just does not want to bother resurfacing. I just hit mine with some 150 grit sandpaper to remove the glaze.
Also I think the 2.4L or 2.7L cracks easily (seen posts on it here) but the 3.4 seems to be a really beefy unit to me.

Most people change the slave cylinder at the same time, even the OEM is fairly cheap (I got the Aisin brand on Amazon which is effectively OEM).

I would be worried that a replacement unit might be thinner. Its the same with brake rotors, if you go to the chain parts store and get the standard rotor then compare with OEM you will be shocked how much thinner the surfaces are. Maybe OK for a light car but a truck often endures heavy duty usage.

 

Oh and also you should ask mech to change main oil seal while he's back there, its a minor amount of additional labor.