COMPLETED 5th Gen 4Runner BBK upgrade for 2nd Gen Tacomas

gixxerphil · Mar 23, 2022

Dalandser said: ↑

Where did you read that? These are 4runner brakes.
Click to expand...

The first post. I forgot to mention I don't want to run spacers. My bad.

The MC may have come from other brake upgrades and I just confused myself.......which happens

Jeff Lange · Mar 23, 2022

gixxerphil said: ↑

I will admit, I haven't read through the whole thread

I have seen different views on having to upgrade the MC. Also, I saw where some factory 17's won't work. Does anyone know if the 5th gen T4R SR5 wheels will work?

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You want to know if 4Runner wheels will clear 4Runner brakes?

Yes. They fit.

Jeff

gixxerphil · Mar 24, 2022

Jeff Lange said: ↑

You want to know if 4Runner wheels will clear 4Runner brakes?

Yes. They fit.

Jeff
Click to expand...

Thanks. I assumed so, but the 17" Tacoma wheel needing a spacer kinda through me for a loop as I don't want to run spacers.

How about the Sequoia/Tundra MC? Do I need to replace mine with one of those?

I want to run the StopTech Z36 T4R rotors/calipers and keep my rear drums.

zippsub9 · Mar 24, 2022

gixxerphil said: ↑

Thanks. I assumed so, but the 17" Tacoma wheel needing a spacer kinda through me for a loop as I don't want to run spacers.

How about the Sequoia/Tundra MC? Do I need to replace mine with one of those?

I want to run the StopTech Z36 T4R rotors/calipers and keep my rear drums.
Click to expand...

No, you only get a spongy pedal when you need to push a larger amount of fluid. Larger pistons and calipers up front won’t require that. However, disc require much more fluid to actuate over drums and when you swap the rear that is where you would notice it.

gixxerphil · Mar 24, 2022

zippsub9 said: ↑

No, you only get a spongy pedal when you need to push a larger amount of fluid. Larger pistons and calipers up front won’t require that. However, disc require much more fluid to actuate over drums and when you swap the rear that is where you would notice it.
Click to expand...

Perfect. I appreciate the response. I was hoping I would be able to keep the stock Tacoma MC
I've read so many brake upgrade threads that I got confused

AlHago · May 24, 2022

Just got my 5th gen 4runner BBK done, thanks for all the help!
I used all pro stainless steel extended length brake lines
2014 4runner OEM brake calipers
OEM rotors
Duralast elite ceramic brake pads

ahkouchi · Jun 3, 2022

Anyone know if this works on 3rd gens?

nudavinci64[OP] initial post: ↑

First off I want to thank my brother Mike and Perry’s Auto for letting us use the shop again and @Low Range Off-Road for putting together the parts to perform the brake swap. If you are in or around Morro Bay/San Luis Obispo hit him up for any work. Perry's is a general auto shop but Mike has some side projects he is always working on. Lately been working on a few Land Rovers for some local guys. He has his own shop now in Cayucos Nelsons Garage. Tons of classic cars and a steady flow of land cruisers and other Toyotas.

THIS IS A VERY PICTURE HEAVY POST

Overview

I am a couple months overdue with this write up as promised to a few of you but here it is.

This will be a walk-through and review of the 2010-Present 5th Gen 4 Runner Brake upgrade on the 2nd Gen Tacoma on my 2013 MGM Tacoma TRD Off Road with aftermarket suspension, larger tires, sliders and various recovery items in the bed.

I was just getting to the point where I was looking into different options to help improve braking on the Tacoma. I was unhappy with the overall braking performance after many of the recent modifications when I Stumbled onto a thread by LRO discussing possible brake options and looking for someone to perform this swap.

In the past I have upgraded front brakes with larger pistons/rotors on other cars. My last setup I swapped Audi S4 Brakes onto an A4 for a much larger Rotor setup. The 5th Gen 4Runner has larger rotors with similar 4 piston calipers that utilize a larger pistons than the stock Tacoma caliper. I figured this would be a great setup if it all worked out well. With a successful completion LRO plans to offer the setup as a low cost BBK for our Tacoma’s. You can easily sources the parts yourself or you can buy the package from LRO in one stop. They have been great to work with so far. I will update with some parts but wanted to get the overall experience and review up ASAP as I have been way behind on doing so.

QUICK RECAP ON TESTS
Before going into the overview of the install and brake test the swap was a success and we did see some improvement. Before performing the setup we performed some brake stops at a rolling 40mph (closer to 42 due to tire upgrade) before and after. We saw around an 8% improvement in stopping distance. I feel it could be a bit better as well. Overall pedal feel is nice and firm with an added "bite" to the front brakes. Each test will be discussed in the thread.

Differences in the two brake setups by the numbers:

Stock Tacoma Setup

13WG - 2005-Present Toyota Tacoma

Caliper Manufacturer - Sumitomo | Advics
Rotor Manufacturer - Advics
Pad Manufacture - Advics
Caliper Size - 11-5/8" Inch
Rotor Size - 319mm
Rotor Thickness - 28mm
Rotor Weight - 18.48 lbs
Brake Pad Size -
Piston Size - 45mm
Wheel Size - 16" - 17"

4Runner Setup (New Setup)

14WA - 2010-Present 4Runner

Caliper Manufacturer - Advics
Rotor Manufacturer - Advics
Pad Manufacture - Advics
Caliper Size - ???
Rotor Size - 338mm
Rotor Thickness - 31.8mm
Rotor Weight - 21.7 lbs
Brake Pad Size -
Piston Size - 48mm
Wheel Size - 17"

Rotors come in 19mm larger with 3mm larger pistons per caliper.

Our setup for the swap:

Most brake setups include stainless lines so we went with replacing 13WG calipers with 14WA calipers with Stoptech slotted rotors, 4Runner Backing plates, LRO stainless lines F/R and I flushed the brake fluid with Original Typ200 Racing Brake Fluid (Same stuff as Super Blue but without the dye due to changes in US laws). I decided to stick with regular OEM pads instead of Ceramic or Metallic pads to gauge the improvement. Going with a more aggressive pad would most likely provide increased performance on top of the new setup.

Parts List.
I still need to track some stuff down but @4x4Taco09 posted some numbers after checking out the build:
-StopTech Slotted rotors
#126.44174SR
#126.44174SL

1st gen note:
If you are a 1st Gen exploring other brake options @Bandido has noted that the rotor for the 5th Gen 4runner is a bit thicker. Using the rotor for the GX is a few mm thinner and works better for the 1st gen.

Part numbers to be added here.

-Calipers
#14WA - Ebay, Summit Racing, Partsgeek Should be able to score for $40-60 each or under $100 if you look.

(It has been noted by a few people that these may not be 14WA and are 14WB which would need to be sleeved to be used. Checking on part numbers)
#47730-60300 Right
#47750-60300 Left (Driver

If you get 14WB Calipers you can sleeve them. @zippsub9 has a thread on that here: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-2016-4runner-and-gx460.677051/#post-23819140

I used Centric brand and have not any issues. No reason to buy new ones. At that point you should just pick up a BBK.

-4 Runner Dust shields (factory part). You can also cut off the Tacoma one but this fits in perfect. Had a buddy use it on his stoptechs too (minor trimming)
#47781-60140
#47782-60140
Camelback Toyota ($90 or so)

-Pads
I went with stock pads for now as I wanted to see a difference if I add aftermarket pads. (same pads as the Tacoma Calipers)

---- Message me any other pads that have worked well.

My parts came rebuilt already but in case you find some old ones some items @4x4Taco09 used to rebuild:

-Carlson Caliper Rebuild kit (2x)
#15392
eBay $19.92

-Carlson Disc Brake Hardware kit
#13600
RockAuto $4.15

-Carlson Bleeder (they were bent when I got them from eBay)
#H9411
RockAuto $0.59 (they only sell 5 at a time, so about $2.95)

I went cheap and grabbed some caliper paint and painted them black. G2 or other higher-end paints can be used or just run them a la natural.

Additional items:
Stainless steel lines (used Low Range Offroad)
ATE200 brake fluid

Missing are the backing plates and Pads but you know what they look like. Pics of them on install day.

Considerations:
Gusseted Spindles - ie: TC Spindle Gussets - You may need to cut the TR4 backing plates. It's been mixed results I pushed out a few areas that I heard rubbing and have had no issues. Other members cut out some areas for the gusseted areas to clear.

TR4 rotors use the same pads as the Tacoma Calipers

Must use 17" rims. Aftermarket so far is the go-to.
@09TRDSport4x4 confirmed Tacoma TRD sport rims will work with 1" or larger spacer. Stock ones have not been able to fit or feedback that they will without spacers.

Future Upgrades:
Wilwood Aero6 or Wilwood Aero6-DS (external dust shields) Kit FROM RR-Racing - Their kit uses Wilwoods 6 piston setup and the T4R rotors (not included). This is an option if you feel you need more stopping power and want some OEM-like replaceability with the TR4 rotors rather than the BBK specific rotors.
https://www.rr-racing.com/RR-Racing-Front-Big-Brake-Kit-for-Lexus-GX-4Runner-p/gx4fbk0002.htm

Link on the thread for some more info:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-2nd-gen-tacomas.504234/page-12#post-21853375

Caliper Prep:

Calipers came with the dark grey color of sorts but to make sure I put a few coats of VHT caliper paint on them. I applied 4 or 5 coats which I am sure will wear off but something is better than nothing. Using a better paint such as G2 Caliper paint would have been better but the local AutoZone only had Red and my plan was to paint them black.

When painting the calipers you can remove the pistons and dust covers or you can cover them. I did a bit of both as they were already greased and ready to go and I did not feel like servicing them again. Plus any part that did not get pain on the inside would not be seen by anyone anyway.

Calipers already had a nice Grey color to them on delivery

If you decide not to remove pistons or not you should cover them. I removed the dust caps but left the pistons inside to keep them greased. Some newspaper and duct tape did the trick.

Freshly painted black. The grey was nice but the fresh coats of black paint look fantastic and goes well with the look of my truck. I debated on going with Matte Bronze to match the SCS Ray10s but was not able to find it on short notice.

I prepped the calipers a few days before install day so they had a couple of days to cure fully before being installed.

INSTALL DAY

I was lucky to have access to a shop but this can easily be completed at home with basic tools to remove calipers, rotors, backing plates, and lines. Depending on your skill level the hardest parts will be replacing brake lines, swapping backing plates, and bleeding your brakes.

I highly recommend having an impact Gun handy. A larger one and a smaller one for those tight places. Most likely you will have some bolts that are pretty damn tight. Impact gun will make this process a breeze. In addition a set of wrenches and a rubber mallet for help loosen the rotors.

BASELINE TEST
First up we need to get some baselines before the installation. We took the Taco out to some back roads and ran a few rolling 40mph emergency stops. We marked off a starting point and ran a few stops. It took a couple of stops for the brakes to start to really grip. We ran 4 stops so that we could ensure we were hitting our mark consistently. At each stop, we placed markers using white paint for reference. Afterward, we measured the distance. The first stops came in a bit high but that was due to late action and cold brakes. 70-75 feet respectively. We knew this was not right. It did not feel right either. After 4 passes our last 2 passes came in at 61 and 62 feet which would become are the baseline for the post-install test.

As we were making a few changes today the truck was set up on King 2.5 suspension front and rear, Dakar leaf Pack, ARE Camper shell, B.A.M.F. Sliders, and various rotopax (filled) and recovery gear for this test. Not too heavy but not stock either.

The video here is of the 3rd pass which came up as the shortest pre-install run.
61 Foot stop via stock Tacoma Brakes ~40mph Rolling Stop

Video here is the 4th which came up right around the same. May have hit it a bit late but came up at 62.

BRAKE SWAP

Always good to lay out everything you plan to install for the day. (Removed a couple of other items unrelated to the brakes)

PARTS LIST:
TAC-B-KIT-05-2 2005-2015 Toyota Tacoma Stainless Steel Brake Line Kit - Front and Rear 4" Longer Than Stock
Stoptech Slotted Rotors

$21 ATE Original TYP 200 Racing Quality DOT 4 Brake Fluid, 1 Liter Can

ATE 706202 Original TYP 200 DOT 4 Brake Fluid - 1 Liter
Toyota OEM Backing Plates Part Number: 47781-60140 and Part Number: 47782-60140
14WA 4Runner Calipers with OEM pads

Quick view of my brother's project land cruiser with dual lockers and its engine torn apart, cleaned up, and freshly painted. He came up nicely on this one. Finding dual factory lockers is a gold mine. He has a ton of plans for this one. Hope to see a sweet setup when he is done.

Start with removing both wheels or at least the one you will be working on first. Ideally, you will want the entire truck on stands for bleeding the brakes down at the end.

Stock Tacoma Brake setup. Dirty and ready to be replaced with the 4Runner setup.

A quick shot from a distance

As we were not 100% sure the rotors and calipers would clear we took some measurements to see how it all lined up. We want to see if they would clear with the Tacoma backing plates. As we assumed this would not be the case. The 4Runner backing plates are much larger in order to clear the extra 19mm. (May still need to cut or bend if running gusseted spindles).

Have a bungee cord or something to support the caliper after you unbolt them. Since you are going to replace the lines you could remove them entirely but this was a clean way to do it until we had to remove the lines. You can leave the stock Calipers and lines intact while you perform the install until you get to the lines.

Now remove the calipers. This is where that bungee cord comes in handy.

Now remove the Rotor. Impact gun comes in handy here and speeds up the process. If not good ol fashion sockets will do.

Before moving forward we still wanted to see how the new Rotor would fit on the stock backing plate. As expected it did not work.

We also wanted to see if the Caliper would clear on the stock backing plate. It was close but looked like it would fit once all bolted up.

Now that we have the rotor off you will need to pop the hub off in order to get to the backing plate. If anything this is just a pain but you have to do it. If you choose you can service your wheel bearing if you like. Everything looks great here so we proceeded without any additional work and remove the stock backing plate.

There are probably some fancy tools for this but my brother and I are old schools. A screwdriver and a hammer were all we needed to get separate.

Does not hurt to do a little clean-up and make sure you do not get any dirt or grime in there.

Install the new backing plates and reassemble them.

If needed cut or modify the backing plate to work with gusseted spindles. Try bending or pushing the backing plate out first. This worked for me but not all members.

Install the calipers(s) and StopTech Rotors

Once the calipers are installed you can install your pads. As noted we went with OEM pads instead of Ceramic or Metallic pads. Eventually I will upgrade to a more aggressive compound.

Comparison of the stock Tacoma 13WG and 14WA Calipers. From the Naked Eye they are very similar and roughly the same size. The larger pistons internally is where its at. In addition the mounting points of the 4Runner Caliper accommodate the larger Rotor.

Visual Comparison of the stock Rotor and new Slotted Stoptech Rotor. They are noticeably larger and look a hell of a lot better.

Now that both calipers are complete lets work on some lines. With some different plans I have in mind for my setup I went with 4" over stock lines. I meant to only get this for the rear but ended up getting them Front and Rear. Highly recommend that when you order you go with +2 for mid travel setups instead of 4". If you end up with 4" return or keep an eye out. So far they have been okay as they conform where it is not interfering with the coil-over but that was the main concern. You will see in the rear they are long but not as problematic. The lines used are the set offered by @Low Range Off-Road and are solid. Good quality lines and after a couple months have held up well.

If you have not already done so, now would be the time to remove the stock lines. Have something handy to plug the line or have a buddy hold a rag of sorts. We attached the new lines to the calipers and immediately after a quick rag hold the new lines into the factory hard lines.

Make sure when you are removing the lines that you use a rag or something to catch any brake fluid. This stuff will degrade anything it touches if you leave it on there. We had some over spray onto the tires below the lift and other parts but quick clean up was okay. A rag of sorts will help prevent exposure. You want to clean up any fluid left on painted surfaces immediately.

Front lines installed and ready to be bled.

Now onto the rear lines. As noted early I went with +4" lines in the rear as I will eventually go with the 12" King Smoothies and B.A.M.F. Shock relocate and want to be ready. Did not hurt to have the extra in the rear.

Make sure to clean up any brake fluid that pops out. Since the lines sit up top the rear axle it was bound to need some clean up.

Rear is complete.

Not a big deal but the clips for the lines were a pain to snap back on. All you need is a bit of elbow grease but just a note if they do not snap on right away.

Once lines are installed its time to bleed the brakes. We first tried to bleed the old fashioned way but was not going well. We ended up using a controller of sorts to complete. This part came pretty easy for this setup as my brother has a Snap-On Electronic bleeder. The unit hooks up to the OBDI reader and cycles the brakes. You will still need to be inside the truck to do the pedal but the reader tells you when to push and let us and I believe sometime of vacuum within the system to bleed. Pretty neat little device. My brother enjoyed it as he has purchased it but never used it.

Make sure to keep track of your covers for your bleeder nipples. We lost a couple for a bit but found them later on.

With that the install is complete! We had some other work to do before we complete the after install test.

The 4Runner setup looks bad ass behind @SCSPerformance Ray10's. Really fills up the 17" rim well. The StopTech Rotors are a nice touch.

And with that we are done and off to record some post install stops. We also added the Dakar 29XL leaf to the existing Dakar Leafs. That will be the only major difference in the after install test.

POST INSTALL BRAKE TEST

Video here is of the 3rd pass which came up as the shortest post-install run.
57 Foot stop via stock Tacoma Brakes ~40mph Rolling Stop

Video here is the 4th which came up exactly the same.

RECAP
Brake setup is not too bad if your mechanically inclined. If you change brakes and bleed lines you can complete this in an afternoon. Having access to a shop makes it 1000x easier but I know that is not the case for everyone. I got lucky my brother works at a shop.

As you can see from the pre-install test of 61/62 feet at a rolling 40 mph stop there was an improvement to 57 feet consistently after bedding and warming up the brakes to 57 feet in 2 consecutive stops. Addition of the lines also gave it a firmer pedal feel. There is a noticeable bite to the brakes. It is not overall aggressive but it is present. This was the first thing I noticed. Overall setup provided around 8-10% improvement in stopping distance (factoring in human error in brake activation). Down the line I will plan to add a more aggressive compound to see how much an improvement it is to the setup as well as over the stock numbers. I had planned to perform another brake test a month or two later after I had some time on the brakes but due to many factors have not done so. Since then I have added B.A.M.F. skids to the truck for some added weight. I still plan on doing so which will make for a different factor in seeing how well they perform.

Overall for the cost it is a decent upgrade. You will end up sending $2-$300 on Rotors and pads when brake maintenance comes up. So far it is a great upgrade if you are not ready to shell out a $2,000 or so on a BBK. I am sure those are bad ass but the $2k is needed for other items *cough* (gears, bumpers, racks) *cough* For a few hundred more you can bump up your rotors and piston size. You can sources parts on your own for $4-$500 depending on what you do for calipers and lines or the good folks at @Low Range Off-Road will be putting together a setup that you can buy ready to install. Price is TBD from the guys at LRO. The guy working at Low Range that was going to get this rolling no longer works there so nothing as of now is coming but as the thread shows our group has come up with tips/tricks of finding parts. New to rebuilt to pick and pull with rebuild.
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bizarrocolin · Jun 3, 2022

ahkouchi said: ↑

Anyone know if this works on 3rd gens?
Click to expand...

Yes, these 4Runner rotors, calipers and splash shields will fit on a 3rd gen.

Here are some part #s:
47781-60140 Splash Shield
47782-60140 Splash Shield
47730-60300 Caliper
47750-60300 Caliper
PN 47730-60300 and 47750-60300 have the 12mm mounting holes that'll work with your pickup.

3JOH22A · Jun 6, 2022

ahkouchi said: ↑

Anyone know if this works on 3rd gens?
Click to expand...

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-2nd-gen-tacomas.504234/page-21#post-26299782

Midship909 · Aug 5, 2022

Just completed my Gx460/5g4r front calipers conversion and I have tc gusseted spindles with 17x8.5 ‐10 wheels. I used oem lexus rotors, TRD pads, and all pro stainless steel lines from Wheelers. Install went smoothly no grinding of anything so far lol. Braking is definitely much better.

nudavinci64 · Aug 5, 2022

Midship909 said: ↑

Just complete my Gx460/5g4r front calipers conversion and I have tc gusseted spindles with 17x8.5 ‐10 wheels. Install went smoothly no grinding of anything so far lol
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I had my running on gusseted TC spindles (I can't recall if I noted that in the first post or not) when I had the kit on. You do have to mess with the backing plate a bit. Mind rubbed at first and just pulled it back and never had an issue. I did end up trimming it a bit when I added the Willwood Aero calipers to fit better.

Midship909 · Aug 5, 2022

nudavinci64[OP] said: ↑

I had my running on gusseted TC spindles (I can't recall if I noted that in the first post or not) when I had the kit on. You do have to mess with the backing plate a bit. Mind rubbed at first and just pulled it back and never had an issue. I did end up trimming it a bit when I added the Willwood Aero calipers to fit better.
Click to expand...

Yea I just wanted to list what parts I had and the results.

nudavinci64 · Aug 5, 2022

Midship909 said: ↑

Yea I just wanted to list what parts I had and the results.
Click to expand...

Great good to see more positive results

09TRDSport4x4 · Aug 8, 2022

Well, it’s been a little over three years and about 30k miles since I did this upgrade, and I’m starting to have issues with my brakes…

When the temp outside is really hot (90+) the brake pedal is starting to require A LOT more effort to stop the truck. It doesn’t sink to the floor per say, but it doesn’t engage firmly until it’s almost on the floor. The truck doesn’t creep forward when stopped but the pedal has to remain almost on the floor. When it’s colder outside I have zero issues, everything feels fine.

I haven’t removed the wheels to check the pads but with ~30k miles I feel like they should be fine (OEM Tacoma pads). The parking brake still engages with 5-6 clicks and holds the truck firmly, even on a hill so I’m not questioning the rear brake adjustment. At this point I’m ready to blame my brake fluid or potentially, the factory Tacoma master cylinder is starting to fail.

I don’t have any interest in upgrading the master cylinder at this point so if things don’t improve with the pedal, after I check the pads and do a brake fluid flush, I’m likely going to end up replacing it with another OEM Tacoma unit. I’ve already crawled under the truck to inspect for brake fluid leaks and didn’t find anything. The only thing I noticed was that the fluid is dark brown now versus clear. Unless I’m missing something or there could be another reason the pedal all the sudden has to go to the floor when the temps get high…

ACEkraut · Aug 8, 2022

09TRDSport4x4 said: ↑

Well, it’s been a little over three years and about 30k miles since I did this upgrade, and I’m starting to have issues with my brakes…

When the temp outside is really hot (90+) the brake pedal is starting to require A LOT more effort to stop the truck. It doesn’t sink to the floor per say, but it doesn’t engage firmly until it’s almost on the floor. The truck doesn’t creep forward when stopped but the pedal has to remain almost on the floor. When it’s colder outside I have zero issues, everything feels fine.

I haven’t removed the wheels to check the pads but with ~30k miles I feel like they should be fine (OEM Tacoma pads). The parking brake still engages with 5-6 clicks and holds the truck firmly, even on a hill so I’m not questioning the rear brake adjustment. At this point I’m ready to blame my brake fluid or potentially, the factory Tacoma master cylinder is starting to fail.

I don’t have any interest in upgrading the master cylinder at this point so if things don’t improve with the pedal, after I check the pads and do a brake fluid flush, I’m likely going to end up replacing it. I’ve already crawled under the truck to inspect for brake fluid leaks and didn’t find anything. The only thing I noticed was that the fluid is dark brown now versus clear. Unless I’m missing something or there could be another reason the pedal all the sudden has to go to the floor when the temps get high…
Click to expand...

Try a fluid flush. Relatively inexpensive, relatively quick and a whole lot safer for you and any passengers.

8TaCo8 · Aug 15, 2022

Ok guys I just completed my BBK upgrade. I went with oem 2014 T4R rotors and I noticed it wasn't hub centric exact fit maybe about 1/16 of a inch +/-. So when the wheels are off and bolts also I can wiggle it a bit. Looking into the rotor removal screw hole I see that my rotor and hub are meeting/seated together when I put on the bolts snugged. When wheels and bolts are back on it feels firm and no play when trying to wiggle jiggle wheel. Test drove it after job was done and no noticing if anything was wrong with it. So my ? is, Should I even be worried about this or is it fine ? And what would be a fix for this or it'll just fine. Any help would be appreciated.

Midship909 · Aug 15, 2022

8TaCo8 said: ↑

Ok guys I just completed my BBK upgrade. I went with oem 2014 T4R rotors and I noticed it wasn't hub centric exact fit maybe about 1/16 of a inch +/-. So when the wheels are off and bolts also I can wiggle it a bit. Looking into the rotor removal screw hole I see that my rotor and hub are meeting/seated together when I put on the bolts snugged. When wheels and bolts are back on it feels firm and no play when trying to wiggle jiggle wheel. Test drove it after job was done and no noticing if anything was wrong with it. So my ? is, Should I even be worried about this or is it fine ? And what would be a fix for this or it'll just fine. Any help would be appreciated.
Click to expand...

it should be hubcentric i cleaned my hubs with brake cleaner and a wire brush then put wd40. should be a perfect fit try cleaning it.

8TaCo8 · Aug 15, 2022

Midship909 said: ↑

it should be hubcentric i cleaned my hubs with brake cleaner and a wire brush then put wd40. should be a perfect fit try cleaning it.
Click to expand...

brake cleaned it and wire brushed it. Here's the problem I found. So on the bearing hub faceplate there's a lip that sticks out about 3/16" and 1/16" thick in height all the way around then it drops off or steps off the rest of the hub. When I test fit rotor on backwards it sits perfect on that lip, when put on the right way because the rotor face is 1/4" thick and beveled/chamfered in the inside of it, it catches by a hair or two which doesn't help at all so I guess I'm screwed lol being that I bought the rotors like 3 months ago and only did the job yesterday thinking everything going to work and now dealer wont take back or replace cause of time held onto it and its been used already.
Now is there anyway I could fix the problem beside looking for another set of rotors ? As of now I just centered rotor with shims and pulled them off when I mounted and torqued the wheels.

sorry dont know how to set pics lol

dually · Aug 17, 2022

8TaCo8 said: ↑

brake cleaned it and wire brushed it. Here's the problem I found. So on the bearing hub faceplate there's a lip that sticks out about 3/16" and 1/16" thick in height all the way around then it drops off or steps off the rest of the hub. When I test fit rotor on backwards it sits perfect on that lip, when put on the right way because the rotor face is 1/4" thick and beveled/chamfered in the inside of it, it catches by a hair or two which doesn't help at all so I guess I'm screwed lol being that I bought the rotors like 3 months ago and only did the job yesterday thinking everything going to work and now dealer wont take back or replace cause of time held onto it and its been used already.
Now is there anyway I could fix the problem beside looking for another set of rotors ? As of now I just centered rotor with shims and pulled them off when I mounted and torqued the wheels.

sorry dont know how to set pics lol
Click to expand...

Any competent machine shop with a lathe could turn down that inside for you. That would be the best method.... I wont share the second method I have in mind...

ACEkraut · Aug 17, 2022

8TaCo8 said: ↑

brake cleaned it and wire brushed it. Here's the problem I found. So on the bearing hub faceplate there's a lip that sticks out about 3/16" and 1/16" thick in height all the way around then it drops off or steps off the rest of the hub. When I test fit rotor on backwards it sits perfect on that lip, when put on the right way because the rotor face is 1/4" thick and beveled/chamfered in the inside of it, it catches by a hair or two which doesn't help at all so I guess I'm screwed lol being that I bought the rotors like 3 months ago and only did the job yesterday thinking everything going to work and now dealer wont take back or replace cause of time held onto it and its been used already.
Now is there anyway I could fix the problem beside looking for another set of rotors ? As of now I just centered rotor with shims and pulled them off when I mounted and torqued the wheels.

sorry dont know how to set pics lol
Click to expand...

Your close up pics show some rust build up. The wire brush may not be aggressive enough to take the extra rust off and clean up the surface enough. I would have another go at cleaning it up a bit with something more aggressive. Really you have nothing but time to lose by trying it.

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