Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

yeah the original Tom woods one piece thread I remember by the time he regeared he ended up throwing the Tom woods out and going to a double cardan and I think he said he wishes he had just done that from the start.

 

How much preload difference between the 650s and 700?

 

I really should talk to them about using the parts from my current single piece and converting my 2 piece to double cardan rear. The single piece has been problem free, but I do hate having to keep speed in mind.

 

All of the parts from your one piece shaft are likely too big for a two piece shaft. The one piece shafts are typically much larger diameter ie: 3 1/2" or 4"

 

I didn’t check to see where it was when we pulled the 650’s off. With the 700’s I think we settled on like 5 turns on driver and 1 turn passenger. Probably had like 10 and 8 with the 650’s. And I know that’s not how you’re supposed to measure preload but it’s an easy way to keep track for me. Both 14” springs

 

For those that have done the Howe Power steering pump, did the Tacoma have a sensor in the stock pump? My FJ has a sensor, not sure what leaving that unplugged will do or what it is monitoring. TIA.

 

Leave it unplugged, you don’t need it

 

I left mine unplugged. No issues so far.

 

Thanks guys. That was my intention, its good to have confirmation.

 

It’s for an idle up switch. At certain pressure the stock pump must close a pressure contact which grounds the lead out to the ecu. It’s supposed to trigger a higher idle for higher load on the pump.

 

So you could rob that part of the harness, to a switch on the dash, and have a high idle switch? Could be good for slow speed, few more fan rpms, but maybe not enough to do anything significant. If it is like the A/C idle up, that would be better than nothing right? I do notice the idle rpms changing when messing with steering wheel while idling, but it is just a momentary bump in idle speed, I don't know if that ckt would cause a permanent hike if hijacked to a switch. Thoughts welcomed.

 

I was thinking the same thing so I started to look into it. I read somewhere somebody noted maybe 100 rpm difference. I don’t have any personal experience with it. Maybe I’ll try it tomorrow.

 

yeah, that isn't much, but maybe better than nothing, especially if you just want widgets and mods for fun. but could help some when wanting better AC and in a traffic standstill...

would be cool if there was a way to just make the idle bypass go wide open, whatever rpm that is, might eliminate the need for pusher fans and such on the condenser, or slow speed overheat issues. No idea how far up the rpms would go though, or if that would mess with the torque converter when in drive..

 

I'm curious what you come up with.

 

Well abs sensors on our trucks is out for using them for speed sensor on full float and a complete abs delete and a Dakota digital speedometer module.

They did however recommend using their magnetic pick up sending unit off the driveshaft.

 

Or just jumper the sensor wires for free.....

 

Yeah. Unless someone wants the option for a complete abs removal from a 2wd truck.

I still plan to stick my T case for my speed sensor and completely delete abs.

 

Yeah, I’ve never quite understood why Toyota would use the abs sensors on autos and use a t case sensor on the manuals….

 

Because the autos have all the fancy modes like atrac and that’s how they function. Really no other reason for it.

 

You should just do a worm gear sensor off the back of the transfer case. You can use the search bar and learn that many have tried and failed at using tone rings for ABS on the Toyota Canbus system. You need to feed your ABS ECU information that it is traveling otherwise if you have an automatic transmission it will be very in happy in the long run and shifting will not be as crisp. The ECU itself pulls from the ABS system to set shift points as it is moving. If you have a 2012 + you will
Not get the speedometer working. However you can feed the abs ECU with a worm gear speedo and it will display in an ultra gauge and tell the computer it’s moving and to shift normally again.
Ultimately the move is just buy a semi float and don’t worry about these problems if you want to retain ABS and have an Automatic.

I will say though good job you have gone down all of the rabbit holes it seems though.