FJ case in a 3rd gen tacoma

Take your time, get all the parts you think you might need, and look at all the pictures on this thread and on the 2nd gen fj swap (most things are applicable to us). And if you're unsure of something, don't hesitate to ask!

 

Agreed. Brav and I did ours' differently but in the end, we both have that fj case in there so don't hesitate to ask

 

I stumble upon this video that may help you regarding the timing in the actuator

https://youtu.be/GCY2BCdlU4I

 

Nice!

Frig that woulda been helpful a few months ago Pretty sure I got something else wrong with the system though, I did try that timing and it still wasn't happy..

Whatever, at least I have 4wd, and once I get the harness to build my ECU Spoofer, everything should be hunkydory.

 

Just read through this, awesome info! Curious, do the FJ cases have a lower gear ratio? This biggest complaint I have with this truck is the crawl ratio. Crawling in this thing puts a beating on the clutch!

 

No, it's almost an exact match with the Tacoma transfer case minus the input shaft and ring gear

 

hey there,
i am brand new to the 3rd gen tacoma game (sold a 74 fj55 and bought a 3rd gen). ive been combing a few threads and learning about some of the issues these trucks can have. SO, i have a few questions about actuators going out. . .
1. Are there any signs that my actuator could potentially be going out?
2. ive just learned that it is "possible" to swap in an FJ cruiser transfer case, but can you still add a tacobox to your truck later on down the line.??

i purchased my truck used (2018 trd off road, 32k miles, 6 speed manual) the first time i used 4lo it did not want to disengage. i was stuck in 4lo for about an hour before it just randomly made a LOUD clunk then unlocked the front diff. is that normal? does anyone have any ideas or potential fixes.?? haha sorry if this is the wrong thread post this in. . . again, im brand new here

 

The actuators "going out" is different from person to person. Short answer: no, switching out of 4Lo should not do that.
Personally, mine were fine but the electrical connections to each one were so dusty that they didn't work properly which is why I did the FJ switch. Take some dielectric degreaser, get underneath, and unplug both actuators and slab on the degreaser. There should also be 1 or 2 extra hookups running down your transmission on the passenger side you should disconnect and degrease also.
If that doesn't work, you can try this: https://youtu.be/ZJESG91GbCQ and you might have to do some digging on fixing the t case actuator. It's just adding more degreaser inside the actuators and soldering the gear connections to keep the current flowing.

If degreasing the connections and actuators and soldering the actuators doesn't work, I would look at replacing the t case to an FJ case (~$300 + your time/labor) or replacing the actuators themselves (~$400/actuator + Toyota dealer labor).

In regards to the tacobox: I don't even think they sell them anymore but if you can find it, please share lol but the FJ case utilizes the same output shaft from the transmission so the input to the box is fine. BUT the Tacoma output shaft needed a ring gear from the original FJ case. Idk what all would come in a tacobox but the output of the box is iffy.
If you want to add a crawl box down the line, I would just do what I said to try to fix the connections, maybe replace the actuators, then look at possibly getting an atlas 4-speed instead. If you're dead set on doing the FJ case swap to get it done with now, they Northwest Fab makes an Eco Box that comes with its own input shaft so you don't have to worry about it. The atlas is similar to the tacobox and the eco box is similar to just a doubler (not as good but better than stock).

FYI: no one has come up with a smooth way to get rid of the warning lights that show up on the dash so if you're fine with your traction control and ABS being turned off and still want the FJ Case then go for it. It's not too bad of a job, maybe a day labor

 

@Dkarr13 thank you so much! i have so many questions and options that i feel its hard to pick the best route to take. im not dead set on the fj case, i was more thinking along the lines of "if this is a known problem, i should pick a solution and start stacking parts before it fails." i know i would like to have lower gearing, i would like something reliable long term, and i know it may be impossible but i would like to find something damn near bulletproof. im open to many suggestions and opinions, especially after reading through a ton of threads on here. it seems the majority of this forum are people with far more wisdom than i have!!

 

Well if you want bulletproof, having a manual t case is the way to go whether that be an FJ case or the atlas 4 speed. The FJ Case is actually known for being durable and easily lasting 300k+ miles so it really just depends on how low of a gear reduction you want to go. But yes, the actuators acting up is a huge problem in the Tacoma world for guys that actually go on trails. Atlas/eco box/FJ case is my top 3 options, if I had to pick a manual route from a stock truck, here's what mine looks like on Instagram (740Yota)

 

Are you using the correct method to change out of 4lo. I would bet you did not use the correct method... or something is already broke

 

I thought this was pretty good solution
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/4wd-ecu-spoofer-for-fj-transfer-case-install.693450/

 

Can confirm! I did this in my truck (sold now ), and it worked awesome!

 

i figured thats a pretty easy method. neutral, foot on brake, turn the dial dial to 4lo..???
im thinking its possible that something is already worn, the kid that owned it before me got it repoed and im assuming he used it for all things redneck. i found the frame and various places under the truck packed full of mud.

 

If you have an Auto:

Neutral or Park (I recommend neutral)
Speed very very slow or stopped (I prefer barely moving, about 1 mph or so)
Brake not required (I would recommend no brake)
Operate switch

I find if I am fully stopped, its alot harder for the system to shift.

 

i dont have an auto. 6 speed manual

 

You didnt say and dont say in your profile, and your use of the word neutral sounded more like an auto...

In that case
Clutch in (I always just clutch in FULLY, but I think neutral works as well)
Speed very very slow or stopped (officially its 2mph or slower)
Brake definitely not required (I would recommend no brake)
Operate switch

My trucks shift in and out of 4lo (or 2lo) much much easier when moving slightly

 

Thats basically how i switch in and out of 4wd. now, the second part of my question. .
is it normal to hear a loud POP when disengaging.?

also, haha in my original post i specify its a manual

 

If you were binding, then yes. Else no

 

makes sense! i really appreciate all the input! ill be the first to admit im a complete noob when it comes to modern cars. this is the newest vehicle ive ever owned haha.