What Have You Done To Your 3rd Gen Today?

Maybe this can help:

 

That’s what I turned up in my googling, but I was wondering if there is more to it than that.

 

Let’s just say I have some already wired, and no diode. But no problems. Knock on wood. I’m using Kyle’s piggyback harness but I don’t think that matters. It just seems strange and I guess I overlooked it.

 

Based on the diagram, it looks like it's a safety mechanism to prevent 12v+ from entering the relay from the wrong terminal. In a negatively switched setup, the switch is connecting the 12v+ to ground. If the switch connected to (85) were to malfunction it could send 12v+ into the relay and short it out (maybe, I'm not an electrical engineer). It could possibly blow not only the 12v+ main fuse going into the relay but also the fuse on the trigger line as well (86). With the positive switched setup it's not necessary since (85) is connected directly to ground. Just like a fuse, under normal circumstances it should never be necessary for the proper functioning of the system but when one thing gets messed up it is there to keep the angry pixies going in the right direction.

 

I see, you edited and hopefully will guide others to the other thread regarding the map light new issue/feature..

IMO..Seems like everyone has the same problem/feature.. bummer, I really like the permanent red function. I wished they would have added that on their site for the V2 "feature".. I would have thought twice purchasing.. but I would be happy to swap it for the V1!!

 

I have the Bak Flip Roll x4s cover. time will tell when i try it out this weekend.

 

honestly I’m not sure, I’ve never tried. I don’t believe my bars would clear a tonneu cover

 

you Cammo'd your rod tubes..... very cool.

 

Put on some method rims and some new rubber

 

took some pics of the truck

 

Haven’t contributed much, so thought I’d share my switch setup that’s a bit different from the usual selection: Garmin Powerswitch

Some of the compelling reasons is cost and ease-of-use. I currently only have two circuits— one for the ham radio (power distribution block on the passenger side) on a relay, and a second for the rear topper which was hard-wired to the battery from the prev. owner.

So now I have four open circuits ready for lighting and any other ideas (I only anticipate a lightbar, and some camp lights, at most). I used a tray from Blaze Off-Road, and a Cali-Raised relay holder.

Side note: probably my only project that was quick and didn’t span multiple days, like usual.

 

Installed some console organizers. From Tacoma Life Style
https://www.tacomalifestyle.com/col...ucts/tacoma-lifestyle-smartphone-door-inserts

 

man that 2x4 on the jack looks sketch as hell

 

Osha approved

 

I would agree they are a bit finicky, I sometimes have to push the button a couple of times to get it to switch colors. I do think that overall @MESO's products, I have several, are of good quality and I wouldn't let a finicky switch be the judge of all his other products.

 

finally got some center caps for my new wheels.....its way faster now

 

I just today received another set for my daughters truck so I'll get them installed tomorrow and see if I've got the same issue.

 

First set of black wheels - I have been anti black wheels for a long time, but these are changing my mind. Center caps should be here by Friday and I’ll put those on. Also getting rid of the BFGs in favor of some Wildpeaks. I don’t like the load range E ride at all.

 

As long as your relay has a diode or resistor built into it, you're going to be okay. The Diode is there to prevent a voltage spike when the electrical field from the coil collapses. Most relays have these built in (either a resistor or diode. They serve the same function for the most part). If you look at the diagram of the relay, you will see a diode (or resistor) in line with the coil.

If you want to be super safe, putting an additional diode won't hurt but with a decent relay, isn't necessary.