What Have You Done To Your 3rd Gen Today?

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/iso-meso-dual-color-dome-light.760112/page-4#post-27119978

 

Damn. I think I asked about this months ago. The relays I’m referring to are from Baja designs, so I think I’m good.

 

Damn that’s a loaded thread, y’all took of the gloves on that one.

 

Rear end collision event enhancement! Man What a fire!

 

We Shure did lol still waiting on Meso

 

The collapsing field within the relay coil can generate 10000s of "volts". . That's not good for anything.

It is like a static discharge that could fry a very sensitive "something". Better safe than sorry.

 

Of course, One MUST inspect the details regarding the relay in order to confirm it's "decent" status. ;-)

 

I had one those v5 turn signals that 3 leds didn’t light up. I told them and they shipped a new one, it was here in like 2 days if that. Also when I picked up my puddle lights used off the marketplace, stew, or is it stu?, noted that it would be a long time before they had them back in stock, so if I wanted them I should buy them. When I bought the switch to turn them on, off, auto he sent me the wiring diagram as the pods I had bought were an older version, and my truck was newer. Total tails 1, I had the hyper flash, they said if I had bought it from meso direct they would’ve given me the resistors but since I got ‘em from Tacoma beast then I had to fork over the $14? Or so dollars. My point being the customer service in my experience has been respectful. I have the dual maps with the double click to turn them red, they stay on whatever color you’ve selected. I would be upset if they changed back too. But just be patient, they take care of the people.

 

Check if your lens is clean. Mine gets hazy from dust.

 

Hmmph. My truck isn’t sensitive. It never cries when I play sad songs. I hope that bd would provide a relay with its harness that wouldn’t allow your $800 light bar to be fried. That would be not so nice.
But also I can’t find a wiring diagram that shows the relay they use.

 

Mine has been blurry since the second installed it. Its like watching a old 480p video. You can right up someone's ass in traffic and still have trouble reading the plates. Im thinking about ordering another camera and hoping i just got a bad camera

 

Is this camera from the anytime on kit? Or did you get the upgraded one?

 

I tend to run really behind....

 

Propane tanks don't explode or catch fire from impact. They can "BLEVE" when exposed to extreme heat for an extended period of time. BLEVE stands for "boiling liquid expanding vapor explosion." Basically, the LPG inside continues to expand as it's heated and converts back to gas, and eventually the tank will rupture and the (now gas-state) propane will ignite into a fireball when exposed to the same source that was heating up the tank. In theory, the pressure relief safety valve should open, allowing the tank to vent and prevent an explosion. However, if it is heated fast enough, it can still expand quick enough to rupture the tank while the valve is venting.

The only significant risk here would be because the tank is pressurized (a standard 5 gallon tank is pressurized to about 145 psi at 70 degrees ambient temperature). If impacted with significant force, it will simply rupture. If there is some sort of spark or ignition source, it could catch fire, but still won't explode. The fuel would just flash and burn off within a couple of seconds, especially since we're talking about a 2 gallon tank here. The folks who remove their spare tire and replace it with a 5 gallon air tank pressurized to 150 PSI are creating just as much of a hazard, and there are tons of people who do that (or those Jeep guys who use their tube bumpers as pressurized air tanks, for that matter). Remember that semi trucks also run exposed air tanks that are usually pressurized to 135-150 psi.

https://www.propane101.com/explodingpropanetanks.htm#:~:text=Propane tanks do not explode,simple as most people think.

 

Like I told our electrician in Afghanistan when he said OSHA wouldn't approve of me running both American 220v and European 220v into the same set of server racks for redundant power:


Long story, but I had good reason and I pulled it off without lighting the C-Hut on fire.

 

One option is to use Proseal, a strong adhesive/sealant used in aviation. It's a bit expensive but it won't leak nor depart from the truck.

Here's one sample: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pnpages/09-38500.php

 

I mean, there's always the off chance that the ruptured tank without an immediate spark could lead to a thermobaric bomb when it finally has an ignition source. Extremely low, yet exciting, odds.

 

Wait… what I was saying is I asked a long time ago and hooked it up. And now I’m asking the same question again.

 

First attempt is going to be with black RTV and some masking tape to keep it looking relatively clean.

I did notice today that the metal right behind the shark fin actually deformed a bit, which is why the front is kicked up. The only real way to fix it would be to tear out the headliner and get in there with a mallet and dolly. That's a skill I don't have and I'm pretty sure I'd screw it up even worse.