New crawl box available

I see the compatibility list but am just a little confused on which options to select. I think vf4 for both base and lid, the lid hooks to the transmission so should definitely be vf4. But is the base section selection for what you are putting gears from into the eco crawler or what you are hooking up to the rear of the eco crawler. My guess is the latter.

 

Correct, if you are using your stock 3rd gen transfer case you'd select vf4 for lid and base. It's for matching the mounting bolt pattern to the transmission and transfer case you're using. The internal low range gears of the VF part time cases are the same as far as I know.

Can always call them with questions. I always had good response and they are very knowledgeable.

 

@jstemp for the shift interface is it Top Shift Ball Type, Top Shift Spade Type ?

 

It depends on what shifter you're going to use on the Eco Crawler it's self (not the transfer case bolting to it). J-Shift pattern transfer cases will be spade type.

I used a shifter from a Auto FJ curiser and that is a top shift spade. Top shift ball was used in some models that had manual shift hi/low but electric 2/4wd selector (see picture).

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-EDIT

This is off NWF web site. Circled would be top shift ball.



@NorthwestFabworks Maybe the shifter types should be clarified a little more on the site.

 

Take this badass setup wheeling yet?

 

Unfortunately no. I'm anxious to try it out, but schedule won't allow it for a while.

 

Haha, I get that. Well, I look forward to hearing about it / seeing it so I can live vicariously through you. I can't wait to do this, but am about 1.5-2 years out from it.

 

I'll definitely post here after I get some miles on it and some offroad time.

 

If possible I'd like to see a video of it idling in 1st low low!

 

Id look into making another mount, but for one of the cases. Lotta weight hanging off of the back of the tranny, and now you have more reduction/torque trying to twist off of the back mount. Wouldn't be suprised if the cases leak between mating surfaces after a couple trips, since mine does it stock after a hard trip from it ever so slightly shifting/twisting.

 

You're getting oil between the transfer and transmission? That area should have no oil it's an empty void and it's not a sealed flange. The transfer case has a seal on the input shaft and transmissions output shaft is also sealed. You might have bigger issues.

I've already thought about a support, but I'm going to keep an eye on it for a while first. It's really not a lot of weight, but you're correct with the torque.

 

@jstemp side question, did you ever re gear before building the doubler, or are you running it on our MTs 4.30s?

 

Stayed with the 4.30's. Currently only running 33's so no reason to regear.

 

In between the other mating surfaces, yes my stuff leaks. And it is a lot of weight when theres torque and wheeling forces applied, especially with a manual where you can really shock and hyperspin the drivetrain. Pictured below is an older topshift tcase from back in my crawler days (doubted with bigger tires than most newer Tacoma people have, albeit ~2,000 less lbs). When you input twice the torque to the rear case, inputs, outputs, and low range gears see those and in the end the cast aluminum housing flexs/shifts which leads to things breaking and joints leaking. I just know that when I do this doubler, I'm making a mount while I'm there since I'm hard on stuff.

 

But whats nice about these Ifs trucks is you will just grenade the front end before the cases unless you have the front case in low, and the rear in high.

 

This is normal for the Marlin/TG stuff. The adapter plates between the crawlbox and trans have an opening that allow the trans tail housing to fill with oil from the crawlbox, so the spot that normally is dry is a source of leaks for many of us. Hence the reason I was asking about how the NWF box seals up and if it's leaking. Looks like it should not be a problem for your setup, at least between the trans and eco crawler since it's a solid plate that seals using the factory flange.

 

I know the issues of the marlin and TG sealing, but he was refering to it leaking in stock configuration. That's why I'm saying there's bigger issues there.

The whole game here is break parts repair it better then break the next weakest link, and repeat..... I think we all know what we're signing up for lol.

 

Gotcha. Missed that part. Definitely shouldn't be doing that stock!

 

Just over 1000 miles on the Eco Crawler so far. Still haven't been out to really work it but no leaks to this point. It's been real handy for 2wd low range though! Also there has been no impact to fuel mileage which is a plus.

I did have a rear driveshaft vibration and ended up going with a one piece shaft from Tom Woods. I don't know if it was due to balancing the shaft after it got shortened or I needed to shim something. I didn't want to deal with it and the one piece shaft took care of it.

 

Kevin, can you please put your big dick away? no one here wheels hard enough to break transfercases.