TRD OF locker ripped off

Clicked on this thread thinking thinking the same thing... First cats and now diffs?!

https://www.ttguide.net/components-1291.html

There's the parts diagram for a rear diff. The switch looks like it has a probe though. If that's not inside your diff, then I would just replace that sensor. Hope that fixes it.

 

Oh this one’s bout to be fun.

 

Definitely describing and reporting the issue with as much description as you can, helps members here. Pictures to support the issue are almost always required.

 

IT Crowd makes everything better

"Have You Tried Turning It Off And On Again?"

 

So first question, did you take off the shield that is over the connectors?

Second question, do you want to repair this, or make the dash just shut up, or what?

 

If you do want to repair it, I THINK its 828240K060

There are several references on the forum showing it, and you can see it in several regearing videos.
Example
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/regearing-my-2016.718265/#post-25565356

 

A Friday thread on a Sunday???

 

Haha

 

i removed it to inspect why i have lights in the dash, it didnt look damaged but it must be if the harness is pulled wires from the diff lock coil out of the connector that im referring to

 

correct thats the plug but whats the plug internally that mates with it because thats where the wires pulled out from internally. From my research this goes to the diff lock coil and not sold separately as far as i can tell. Id really like to get it working again and remove lights from the dash ideally because i have to pass i spection

 

Where i have circled is the plug where the wires are pulled out

 

How can i repair this connector and make it function again if the wires are totally pulled out from connector and still inside the third memeber. As i stated the 828240k060 plug was just hanging outside the diff with this connector still in it and no wires attached. I just siliconed it up for the time being but i found this pic from another thread for reference

 

From what i understand the pigtail attached to diff lock coil is not sold seprately and i dont really want to get into replacing the coil as i have little experience rebuilding these Elockers. Id prefer to repair the wire and not replace the 500 dollar coil
Thanks

 

Thats part of the lock coil, and its unlikely you will be able to find any released engineering telling you what it is. (and you dont want to pay/disassemble to replace the lock coil, to the tune of $hundreds)

Toyota doesnt give you the P/N of that connector directly in any way I am aware of.

Here are some options I can think of
Hit the junkyard (and find an OR/PRO) and pull that connector
Splice back the wires yourself and seal up the hole somehow
Check the toyota connector guide, and see if you can find the proper connector there https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...anual-w-connector-and-terminal-part-s.470915/

 

Thank you for the response, im in pretty a remote town in BC Canada and dont know of any junk yards around unfortunately

 

In case anyone else has this issue in the future and rips this out by accident or off roading, My third member will have to be removed in order to fully resolve the issue because obviously my Diff lock is not working right now but i managed to get the lights off in the dash (ABS,TRACTION AND DIFF LOCK warning lights on from this one plug) so i can pass inspection by unplugging the harness completely from the connector and sticking a paper clip in both terminals to complete the circuit and fool the ECU. I will update on what i plan to do to fix the rear locker in the future but as of now i plugged the connector with silicone, jambed in back into thirdmember and ziptied said paperclip connector out of the way.
Thanks everyone who contributed, now i just have to make it look factory for inspection lol

 

Cram some dielectric grease or zip tie a ziploc over the connector so corrosion doesn’t ruin the terminals or wires.

 

What does the terminal look like? If tis a micro .64 or some other generic sae type of terminal, you can order crimpers and terminals on Amazon and just install a new terminal with new weatherproof insert. Wouldnt be too bad I wouldnt think.

 

You don’t need to be near any of them. They ship.

Google “used car/truck parts”.

Do what @FedExGuy82 said, solder the crimps and make sure to use shrink wrap.