Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

Yes thank you!!

Yeah I'm halfway through my machinist certification. I honestly hate master cam cause I'm use to having a histogram in fusion 360 for when I use my plasma table at home. These were my last two projects.

 

I realized with my boots on that I won’t be able to get an accurate measurement. I’m replacing them soon due to a slight tear so if you still need it by then I can get it for you.

 

awesome thanks again.

 

I haven't done the tcase sensor yet, was waiting until we tackle the full float install along with ripping out the archive sua for the JD kit.[/QUOTE]

I know i am late to the conversation here and probably way off base but on the automatic trucks (i have a 2010 and 2014 in my yard at the moment and crawled under both) there is a two wire hall-effect sensor on the output shaft of the transmission (passenger side just a few inches back from the mating flange and above what appears to be valve housings in the cast housing) prior to the transfer case, it appears to be turning a 4 gap/rev reluctor wheel could that signal be hijacked or duplicated? Unfortunately i do not have a manual 2nd gen truck to verify this even exists on the manuals but it seems worth the effort to ask.

 

You got to make some pretty cool stuff all I got to make was a clamp and a bunch of competency samples for the different operations. Once I was done though I did get to make a set of forward controls for my old motorcycle that was fun and a neat project while I was learning.

 

I know i am late to the conversation here and probably way off base but on the automatic trucks (i have a 2010 and 2014 in my yard at the moment and crawled under both) there is a two wire hall-effect sensor on the output shaft of the transmission (passenger side just a few inches back from the mating flange and above what appears to be valve housings in the cast housing) prior to the transfer case, it appears to be turning a 4 gap/rev reluctor wheel could that signal be hijacked or duplicated? Unfortunately i do not have a manual 2nd gen truck to verify this even exists on the manuals but it seems worth the effort to ask.[/QUOTE]

Dude! I’ll look into this. You could be onto something. Nobody ever mentioned anything usable on the auto trans before.

 

I know i am late to the conversation here and probably way off base but on the automatic trucks (i have a 2010 and 2014 in my yard at the moment and crawled under both) there is a two wire hall-effect sensor on the output shaft of the transmission (passenger side just a few inches back from the mating flange and above what appears to be valve housings in the cast housing) prior to the transfer case, it appears to be turning a 4 gap/rev reluctor wheel could that signal be hijacked or duplicated? Unfortunately i do not have a manual 2nd gen truck to verify this even exists on the manuals but it seems worth the effort to ask.[/QUOTE]


Looks like they’re there alright. I was hoping for unused sensors. They’re inputs to the ecm.

Still could be useful. I’m looking into piggybacking the signal without causing issues to the ecm. Issue with that is with using diodes, it will clip the ac sine wave. I’m not sure if that played nice with the Dakota input or not.

 

The ol' tap handle, a staple in machining education.

 

Tonight I tried the No.2 speed sensor. I left it plugged into to the ecm from the transmission. Paralleled the signal to Dakota digital, took many attempts and the set up but I was able to drive the truck. Abs module completely disconnected, I had speed only at the ultra gauge, no speedometer. I was not getting any check engine p0500 codes, cruise control worked and I was about a mile off gps speed.

I have thoughts of maybe the signal ground being a different location than the speedometer or even still set up on on the Dakota digital programming for my output is wrong. I will try more into this tomorrow.

 

Thats the output speed sensor for the trans. I wouldn't start playing around with it because that's how the ECM/TCM knows what's up with the trans. It would also be highly inaccurate in 4 Low. Which isn't a big deal, but yeah.

 

That’s true. But I’m more along the lines of testing for 2wd guys. Im going to use a Tcase vss signal for my truck.

 

Unless someone is willing to do a full stand alone system, the only way I can see it possible is to use a reluctor wheel on the drive shaft. I'm digging through diagrams now and the sensors on the trans cant be messed with, nor used for the speedometer as they are monitoring shaft speeds. A reluctor wheel on the driveshaft isn't uncommon, nor is it hard to do. Down fall is, it would have to be located at the pinion as its the only fixed position spot on a 2wd shaft.

 

Another option would be machining the hubs to accept a reluctor wheel and re use the factory speed sensors. Also a solid option as it would retain everything.

 

The transmission sensors are variable reluctance sensors. Sharing the ac signal with a parallel configuration did not interfere with my shifting at all. Mind you I’m still sending the signal through a Dakota digital box. I just didn’t have time last night to see if I was sending the right output to the speedo.

I wouldn’t bother chasing the use with custom machined parts to make this work. Just keep the abs module on board to supply a vss. You just have to send one of the front signals to the right rear input. Also must make sure the abs is physically not part of the system with the sensor redirected from the front. You’ll have to live with the dash lights or remove them.

I’m not looking to retain abs at all. Just trying to figure a way to completely delete it for the 2wd trucks with the vacuum booster set up.

 

They say imitation is the greatest form of flattery….or is just flat assholery???


Can’t wait till the first garage mechanic does this. Nothing to help you align the LCA tabs. Can’t imagine the time it will take to get them straight in height and width. That is just going to be a nightmare install.
It’s stuff like this that makes you see the genius in what Harry did with their setup.

 

That was the first thought that came to mind. No way to locate or align what you’re welding onto the truck. At that point just weld on a marlin crawler reinforcement and one of the “cam tab delete” options on the market and call it a day. Basically the same thing they’re offering for half the price.

 

Instead us 05/06 owners get blown head gaskets and frames that snap at the motor mounts

 

Pretty sure you can just weld these wherever you want. Much better design

 

You can, and a good fabricator could even figure out how to put them in the OEM "correct" spot too. But watching the harbor freight welder crew burn these into fucked up spots, then bitching about alignment, should provide a summer's worth of entertainment.

 

https://youtu.be/qe6uNi6B4RA

Harry can you build me one of these when I win the lottery.