Front disc brake problem with a couple questions

Not enough time in my day anymore...This forum gets me where I need to start ,so here goes...
I replaced my front brakes and rotors about 9 months ago...I used Power Stop discs and pads...They look just fine as of today...But a month ago it started that dreaded noise when I had to get into the brakes some..And it's steadily gotten bad to the point I gotta get the truck on jack stands today...And yeah, it feels like warped rotors, on BOTH sides...However the rotors still look perfect..They seem to be blueing a little...This has me thinking the caliper pistons aren't retracting completely all the sudden...A friend brought up the possibility of the hydraulic brake hoses giving out...Said they swell when they get worn out...Now, I'll m have to turn the rotors if this is the problem...They probably are already warped from constant friction....That's all I got....I need all of you pros to text with your ideas ! Thanks in advance..

 

When I bought my truck used the brakes were pretty bad. The pads were even seized inside the calipers and at least 1 caliper piston was seized on each side.
So my remedy was get refurbished oem calipers that a local parts store had and a brake hardware kit. I also used brake caliper grease on the pins that the pads sit on. For preventative maintenance every time I rotate my tires I take the caliper pins out and wire wheel them and grease them again.
Maybe could try taking the calipers out and clamp down on the caliper pistons and see if they are free still. And check if the pins the pads sit on are moving freely.

 

What you describe can have multiple causes and you may well need; hoses, calipers, new rotors, pads etc.......
So just one more thought after your repairs are made - MOST warped and overheated rotors are the result of "poor" braking technique. More pressure on the brake pedal than necessary, when stopped, after hard or severe braking, (or repeated stop and go braking) will cause a transfer of pad material to the rotor, overheating of the rotor where the pad(s) are contacting the rotor resulting in hard spots and discoloration of the rotor. Proper technique is to apply "JUST" enough pressure on the brake pedal to keep the vehicle from moving. If traffic conditions permit, even letting the vehicle "creep" forward just enough to keep the pads and rotors from stationary contact. (on level ground, even shifting into neutral, foot off brake, to minimize pad / rotor contact pressure)

 

Jb, I learned that from my Dad when I drove a dump truck and pulled a few mobile homes to sites for him..I was 15 when he taught me ..And I can only remember one time that someone cut me off and I slammed the brakes... Could have been that...But I just walked out of a NAPA store after talking with some friends...And I won't know for sure until I get it in the air...If both front tires are dragging then I'm betting it's the master cylinder going out....What do ya think ?
I'm gonna jack it up shortly...I'll keep you apprised

 

Never seen a failing master retain pressure to create drag. Also, if your brakes are dragging you should have an excessive amount of brake dust on your wheels as an indicator. You'd be looking for binding calipers or caliper pistons at that point, but also have odd wear on the pads.

Pulsation is caused by pad material on the rotor the vast majority of the time. Especially common if a bedding procedure was not followed when new brakes are installed.

 

Bedding ? Can u explain ?

 

https://brakeperformance.com/bedding-in-rotors.php

 

I have never seen a bad master cylinder cause pads to drag. My bet is calipers going bad. One or more pistons are lazy or seized up. The pads could be hanging up and causing it too, but I rather doubt it.

BTW: The number of actually bad master cylinders I've seen in all of my years I can count on one hand. The number of bad calipers? That's a big number.

 

This

Proper bedding after proper inspection and repair will prevent almost all problems.

 

I recently, about 1 year ago, put powerstop brakes (drilled and slotted rotors and heavy duty pads) all the way around on our camper tow vehicle. It made a huge difference in the abilty of the combination to safely slow and stop. That being said, I’ve been carrying or towing heavy loads for 22+ years, and i’ve found that after heating up the brakes, wether it be a long down hill, or an emergency type stop, i usually lightly creep the brakes with soft pressure, and not letting the pads rest on the rotor or drum in one spot to long. This aids in not transferring excess heat to one spot on the rotor, and also keeping pad material from transferring.
Also from my experience, if the caliper piston easily returns to it’s fully open position with a c clamp, the brake hoses are not the culprit. Caliper pins have probably been the culprit 80% of the time.