TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

so if my cats and air injection have been deleted and tuned via hp should i replace them? they are stock originals.

 

My solution for the heater hose for now until I pull the blower off for some maintenance... zip tied the bend tighter so the clamp doesn't touch for now.

 

Any of y'all Denver/Front range area people planning on doing a full bearing service on the supercharger (and are skilled to do it)?

I'm about to pull the supercharger lid off to replace the seal that is allowing coolant to weep and will probably pull the whole blower (for fun) to install new spark plugs.

While it's off, I'm at minimum replacing the coupler and changing the oil, but it's probably a good time to replace the bearings.

Or if you just recommend sending it out since it may be a bear of a job or too risky, I'll do that. I now have a garage spot that I can leave the truck in a disabled state if necessary.

 

If you have a vice and a bunch of sockets large sockets you should be able to complete the job yourself

 

Can anyone tell me what may be causing this noise? Truck randomly does it only on cold start.
https://youtu.be/Wr7uRi5efXA

 

wtf? sounds like pulley or belts. only cold? how about warm? fluctuate with rpm? just asking q's for an idea where to look.

 

I just replaced all the pulleys and belts not too long ago. On cold start it usually does it and it doesnt seem to change with rpm, then just randomly goes away. This time it didnt do it right at start up I drove it maybe 50 feet to move it and it started doing it..

 

my next quick guess would be an accessory. p/s alt., ac compressor. maybe a two person test seeing where its source is. everyones hearing is different.

 

Oh my…that engine bay.

 

It’s a little tricky changing out the snout bearings especially with a modular hub. I did mine couple years ago. All good if you have the right tools. I’m near Boulder. The needles are pretty self explanatory. These bearings are definitely good for 100k miles. The stock coupler will go bad first before anything else.

You definitely can’t use a “vice” to change the snout bearings. That’s just silly talk

 

is a special tool needed to pull the quick change hub? i thought so but not sure.

 

For some reason I thought he was talking about idler bearings

 

I haz spare nose drive.

 

From my understanding the front exhaust sensors tell the computer what the AFR is, and it makes adjustments on the tune based on them. Old or fouled/broken sensors will absolutely change things on the tune. The rear sensors on the other hand, have nothing to do with the tune or the running of the engine at all. They ONLY monitor the health of the front set of cats, to make sure they are working properly. So if you have a catalytic code, it could be from the cats being bad, or it could be from a rear sensor operating incorrectly. But the front sensor can't throw a code for a cat, and rear sensors have nothing to do with the tune on the engine.

 

It’s hard to see where it’s coming from since it doesn’t do it all the time. The only thing wrong with the truck that I know of steering rack is leaking.

 

Ok wow. I thought I was good.

Nothing in sight right?

That bugger is up underneath the SC. I'll snap a pic, battery on my phone is too low atm to flash the camera. But its there!!!

 

I offered a place to stay to clean mine

im pretty sure the stock coupler is wearing/worn out, so definitely getting one of the solid ones.

I’m at about 75k miles on the blower, but it’s had 2.8 and 2.7” pulley for most of the life, so I’d reduce that 100k by a little bit.

Nothing sounds bad yet other than the coupler sounding a little clicky like the video on page 1 (I think or somewhere else in the thread).

Are you offering help or to do the work or just saying in case I need some emergency help nearby, @TRON ?

 

I think you’re ok, bur just double check feeling around blindly for any gouging spots.

 

The lower house, that my pointer is on, loops up and has two clamps on it. That's the clamp that is marring my SC.

 

Could I replace the tension clamp on my OEM heater hose with a hose clamp like the ones that come with the HPS hoses? Any reason why OEM and HPS use different styles?
As that would negate the problem before it even starts for me.