TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Removed them and just zip tied.

Wow you guys are having lots of problems. Try cutting the hose shorter towards the firewall so it pulls away from the s/c. You can see the bend is more than enough coming from the firewall. Also it doesn't have to run as long as Magnuson suggests but good to have some length for the motor rocking. Solid motor mounts will solve this.

 

Well I’m happy to report that my oil test came back good, no sign of a headgasket leak atleast (coolant to oil). Still not completely ruled out but it seems I am not the only one on here that was having a weird issue with driver/passenger fuel trims so the investigation continues.

 

we will solve this. im just tired of no boosty times. trying to drive normal until its solved. im thinking its s/c to intake leak or near my tb for me. intake gasket going on saturday and may rtv all intake surfaces.

 

glad your oil test is good standings. my thought is if left and right banks are different its a sensor or very specific air leak.

 

Yeah. I honestly need to see what the readings are now that I swapped my sensor. Every now and then I feel the mis on cold start. I just ordered the last reman toyota steering rack in 100 miles of me, since I found out my warranty is finally up (damn!). So that is going up on the priority list for me and hopefully I can rebuild the one I take out.

 

To either of you guys, what is the result of swapping your upstream AFR sensors from side to side?

 

Honestly I would only do that as a last resort since it was a pain.. or maybe if I got the right socket and some swivels it would be easier. My trims seem better but I do notice some large variance between banks but it corrects itself pretty quickly now, and I haven’t gotten my sensor code anymore. Still not sure what is causing the variance I am going to monitor it again on my way home from work. I wonder if it’s something to do with the FIC injectors

 

Check out the tiny size of the Ecoboost 3 cylinder 1.0L turbo...




This is a common problem with this motor..

 

I have bigger fans on my computer! Hell, my laptop!

 

Is that belt material or sludge build up?

 

Belt material. Travels everywhere and contaminates everything..

There's only one acceptable fix, a long block. Warranty only pays 10 hours..

 

BMW has a couple of engines that do the same thing.

 

i havent yet. thought about installing my 1 old bosch sensor that was working fine to test.
mine are very simple to change with urd headers. takes 5 min. i had my driver side afr sensor dead for almost a year. maybe it is the stupid o2. truck runs fine if you dont look at the gauges. heres a question- bottom of this page Amazon link o2s, why when i go to amazon they say its not compatible with my truck?? im going to replace the rear ones so its one less thing to consider.

 

good call on that fic injector idea. if anything ill just check to make sure theyre seated correctly.

 

There are a bunch of different O2 sensor part numbers. I'm no expert, but as far as I can tell there is no difference in the voltages or sensor methods, connectors, etc. the difference that I know of is the harness length (which is a non-starter if you have long tubes and extensions from URD). You can go to Denso and see what part number your truck takes. I have a bunch of the

$124 234-9051 Right-Bank Upstream with 4-Wire 8.5” Option Air Fuel Ratio Oxygen Sensor

234-9051 sensors if you want to go with those, I'd sell you a pair for a good deal... I think I made a post about that a few days ago.

 

thanks. i did read your post and it is a way better deal than i paid. believe they were the fronts you had as they were spendy. when i get home ill do a quick look at the tail length needed. spent over 500 on o2s so far with no happy results. 4 outta 6 are new now.

 

Is it normal for short fuel trims to spike up when applying the brake? Short trim 2 goes up to 7 and trim 1 goes to 4.69. This is at idle in neutral. If I hold the brake down trim 1 is 1.56 trim 2 is 4.96 give or take. I may just take a log and see if Justin has time to take a look at it maybe he can point me in the right direction

 

as of now ill just have to pay retail at napa. denso site was just as anti helful as Amazon for finding the correct part.

 

NAPA has a bucket sale going on right now. Buy a $5 bucket and anything you can fit inside of it is 20% off.

 

You have a TRD sport, so vacuum brake booster. When you apply brake does anything happen to engine RPM? If your booster is bad, it could be letting unmetered air into the intake, but that would normally impact all cylinders and result in idle speed changes and corresponding fuel trim adjustments.

You could pull off the vacuum line from the booster, cap the blower where it connects, and do the same testing with that line capped, see if anything is different without that line connected. Of course don't drive without any vacuum assist...

For the record I have no idea if it is normal for fuel trims to change with the brake pedal... if it is normal due to the air being pulled out of the booster when pressing the pedal... then forget all of what I said...