Home Improvement Today?

Multi tool it? I’ve had to use the multi tool on my transitions and it has a terrible time with this hickory Almost starts a fire.

 

Set the blade just deep enough to get down to, but not through, the tongue to square them up. Then if need be, take a shave off of the end of the tongue.

 

It would have to go all the way through I think. Because the board is the same length below the tongue, so if you just cut the top it would still contact the bottom:


One thought I had was to notch the riser board with a block plane? Then bend that nosing really tight to close the gaps where need be.

 

Progress on the 1/2 bathroom today. Got the vinyl laminate floor down today, installed the vanity and connected the plumbing. For the last row of flooring against the hardwood/under the door casing, I shaved off the ridge on the 2nd to last row, and then slid the last row under that course, then slid it back towards the wall and under the door casing. The 1/4" gave me just enough room to fit it nicely. A little pressure and some clear gorilla glue and it all fit tightly. Threw some tape on for a couple hours while the glue set. Added a simple carpet threshold as the laminate was only about 1/8" lower than the hardwood. I nailed it into the hardwood. Tomorrow I'll install the baseboard trim and the toilet. Had to have my baseboard heater end caps trimmed as they were resting on the subfloor. They're (sheet metal fab shop) cutting 1/4" off the bottom. Coming together nicely.

 

Getting this Mitsubishi from 2004 replaced with a 26.3 SEER unit with dehumidifier mode.
Replaced 1/3 water heaters.

 

So what I’ve found with this situation is to make your own if you can. I spent about 15 hours making one for a transition like yours in our last house. I actually made it go over the t&g by a 1/4” and top screwed it in with clear silicone caulking between the nose and the t&g. The piece you showed is supposed to be used to start the boards from. You could also try and route out the t&g flush.


Good luck.

 

Track saw.

 

I contemplated making my own, but I don't think I'm set up to really focus on that with so many other projects going on. I mocked-up a spare piece of nosing (this is the wrong one, but same 2" throat measurement). This shows just how big the gaps are. You can see it goes from flush to about 1/16 - 1/8" gap where some boards are offset, and then back to flush. Granted this is like 2' off the ground I'm shooting the photo from.

 

No, a hand saw set to just less than the thickness of the laminate. You only need to take half a kerf width off a couple tongues, right?

I think your goal is to only make it "appear" to be correct. It doesn't matter what it looks like underneath the bull nose.

 

It's not the tongues. It's the board ends themselves are slightly off. You can see it in the photo he posted a page back.

 

Yes that's right; the tongue won't do much. It's the "finished" face as my dad and I have been calling it (we're not carpenters lol).

 

@kmorgan3

If I'm remembering correctly this is solid Hickory and a nail down, correct?

 

Yeah 3/4" hickory with 2 1/2" flooring cleats. 2 1/2" 16 ga finish nails where the flooring nailer wouldn't fit.

 

What about a router on a track with a tongue and groove bit?

 

OK. A track saw's the best way but you might, and I stress might, want to try this.

Grab an old 16" or so piece of the flooring. Cut the finished side groove off of one end and square up the other. Take a 3lb lump hammer and see if you can tap the long one's back. You're cutting that top side groove away so you're not getting contact on the top finished side of the existing floor. With enough muscle and patience it will probably get you close enough. This is all provided you guys left a gap on the far wall.

 

All that is behind some decorative shutters. May get siding tackled at some future date cuz theres other spots on the house that need it too.

 

I'll give that a shot tonight. If it doesn't work I think this is what I'm gathering from everyone:

1. Take a track saw and cut them all perfectly flush.
2. Take a router and cut a 1/4" groove (same size groove as stock) halfway down the flush-cut boards to covert the end into a groove lock.
3. Take the nosing and glue a 1/4" dowel into the existing groove there to convert it into a tongue lock.
4. PL3 the nosing down, put wood glue in the T&G, slam her home, face-nail with finish nails.
5. Done?

Any recommendations for a router bit to do that? I would need it to cut a 1/4" groove 3/8" down the boards. The bit can't be longer than 3/4" total length.

 

I flushed my tankless hot water heater the other day, bought a new supply line to replace one that has a slight leak, and picked up 1 ton of gravel to fill in some bare spots front and back. Probably should have bought 2 tons. Oh well, another day.

 

You can try the big box stores or a good lumber yard for the router bit.

 

Don't need to route anything. Set the depth of the track saw to top of existing tongue. Set track and cut flush. You'll have to finish the very end boards with a oscilating tool if they are long.
Reset track saw depth to bottom of tongue. Reset track 3/16" out from finished floor edge. Cut the tongues.
The bottom of the board will be a little proud so take the threshhold out to the table saw. Cut 1/8" off the backside groove.
That should get you pretty dame tight. Just make sure none of this end up longer the the 2" throw from the bottom capture of the threshhold.

But let me know how beating them goes. I I think it's got a good chance of working.