TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Oh come on now. you are 2015 right? There are only 4 sensors in the exhaust. Upstream and downstream for each side. All I did was put in your junk to the links and details I've already posted about. Shows your upstream AFR sensors are 234-9145 and your downstream O2 sensors are 234-4927 (if you had catalytic related codes is the only reason to consider replacing the downstream sensors).

https://densoautoparts.com/find-my-part.aspx#searchResults

$134 Denso 234-9145 Oxygen Sensor

https://www.amazon.com/Denso-234-9145-Oxygen-Sensor/dp/B00NQ02GJO



the 234-9145 are nearly the same length as the ones I have for sale. But my 234-9051's have a different looking sensor protrusion, so I'm not positive they will be compatible but I think they are. Let me know if you want a pair.

 

I have seen discussions in here on brake upgrades... anyone have significant experience with upgrades to the rear drum brakes, specifically larger wheel cylinders that will bolt in? See my other thread if you have info to contribute please!

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/rear-drum-brake-upgrade-larger-wheel-cylinders.761590/

 

So I decided to proceed with option #1, I talked with a few people and the discoloration didn't seem to throw any major flags up (which I expected as it ran great prior to pulling it apart). I got the heads back from the machine shop last night. They milled .006" off the deck mating surface - would this require getting a thicker HG to compensate? I understand the FSM indicates NOT to mill the head surfaces but the (very reputable) shop I took them to said it wouldn't be a concern. After some extensive research online, the only "failures" I've seen due to milling the head surface down was on a 1GR-FE that had .030" milled off (supposedly un-evenly as well??)which I could absolutely see causing a problem. So I'm not too concerned, but figured I'd get some second opinions here. I already have OEM Toyota HG's on the way and plan to install the heads with those. Thoughts?

Also, I found out that my diagnosis was slightly incorrect, as far as the leak down check goes. It turns out that cyl #5 had a leaking intake valve, not a leaking exhaust valve. This doesn't change anything as far as the repair goes but figured I would mention it.

 

A .006" should not have an issue. I was told the same by machine shops while I was rebuilding my engine. At the point of .010", I would get a thicker head gasket. As long as nothing has to come off the block, I would run it. If you look around you may be able to find one that is about .030" the stock was about .025".

 

My thoughts as well - appreciate the input!

 

You had your heads machined prior to your very recent engine rebuid am I right? I'm pretty sure that I read that. Anyways, what's the name of the machine shop that you used? I'm starting to get the ball rolling for my HG job.

 

may i inquire what the head work cost? if you dont want to broadcast a pm works too. just trying to prepare myself in the event i need to.

 

You would think that little amount wouldn't cause an issue, but I remember some time ago the shop I worked at did an S2000 head gasket job because the customer overheated the piss out of it. The machine shop we outsourced the work to resurfaced the head (I can't remember how much they did for the life of me) and just removing that little amount of material they did allowed the cam sprockets to sit just a little closer to the crank sprocket, causing a timing chain slap under certain RPM in acceleration that we thought was a hydro tensioner for quite a while. I don't remember what wound up happening with the entire thing, but anyways...

Most likely not even an issue of concern in these trucks, but a story worth noting.

 

As far to my knowledge my heads have never been machined. I took them to a machine shop to have them cleaned and checked for leaks. they said they were as straight.
The shop for the heads was Howie's machine shop on Edison Hwy in Bakersfield, CA. Small shop but we started using them at work. Iwent with a different shop for the block. Long story.

 

wow! that seems like a good price. im thinking it would be double-ish for me as i dont know how to pull mine.

 

For a shop to do the job I’d suspect around $2-3k depending on parts

I’ll have spent around 3k just on parts/machine work when it’s all said and done but that’s me replacing all the timing components, water pump, oil pump, gaskets, motor/trans mounts, fluids, plugs, etc…all OEM

 

That's the way to do it. Do it right the first time and everything closely related to it, that way you don't have to go back and do half the work again in the near futuer.

 

Fingers freaking crossed it pays off…

She’s got 165k on her now and I’m hoping not to have to crack the engine open again til hopefully 250-300k…

 

Ill add your project to my thoughts, as my fingers are still crossed for mine. LOL!
Ill relax after I hit 1k and change the oil from break in and have any bugs worked out. Like the rear o2 sensors I had crossed up.

 

Just thinking about reaching that sort of mileage before it goes boom only further solidifies my rationale in getting a back up vehicle despite how inconvenient it might be. This most recent occurance with my busted bolt in the T- cover made me realize how much of a slave I am to my truck. If it goes down, I literally have no other way to get around and I do not like the idea of that at all.

2020+ supercharged LT4 Camaro.

 

Buy yourself a cheap little daily. Best 4k I ever spent (plus some $$$ because I cant leave stuff alone.. lol).

 

Definitely nice to have a second no matter what it is! My truck is turning into a parts hauler lately lol

love copart.com! Won that JK Rubicon at auction for $7500, $9k all said and done, delivered to me. Been tearing it down the last week to rebuild as dedicated off roader. It runs and drives!

 

I have other cars and trucks. They're all projects. :/ Maybe another one wouldn't hurt.....

 

I'm too old for a bunch of projects. I just need to finish one before starting another lol