What kind of Floor Jack are you using?

3 ton and 58lbs

https://www.costco.com/3-ton-profes...and-steel-service-jack.product.100222458.html

 

My back says yes, but my lifted truck says no (18" max lift height).

 

I splurged and went with the Kratos by Pro Eagle. Its awesome and yea it does the same thing as other more inexpensive jacks, but what can I say, I like nice stuff

https://www.proeagle.com/collections/shop/products/3-ton-big-wheel-jack-kratos

 

Hey, I was wondering if the jack extensions that Pro Eagle make would fit other 3 ton jacks?

 

So funny that you mention that because I had a Craftsman floor jack before this one, and I first ordered the extension by itself. It fit on there, but wasn't 100% stable. I made it work for a while, but ultimately ended up getting the Pro Eagle jack. I can't speak for other models. I now have an extra one if you are interested, will sell it for 65% of whatever it is retailing for these days. PM me if so

 

HF Daytona 3-ton low profile

My only minor gripe is it sits on 3 wheels when in use. I can shim it with a piece of conveyor belt; usually don't.

 

i have the arcan costco jack and you basically have to improvise/retrofit it. I bought a rubber grommet from lowes and mounted under the center bolt and its sturdy now. I've used it on my truck many times already. I have 2" lift all around.

 

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...motive-truck-2020-toyota-tacoma?q=ramps&pos=0

$64 Pro-Lift Heavy Duty 6 Ton Jack Stands Pair - Double Locking Pins - Handle Lock and Mobility Pin for Auto Repair Shop with Extra Safety

https://www.amazon.com/Pro-LifT-T-6906D-Double-Jack-Stands/dp/B074R17GL4

 

I have a 50+ year old Lincoln floor jack. Very heavy monster, I guess due to being designed to lift 50s and 60s cars. The only troubling thing is that I'm sure my dad never rebuilt the cylinder (he bought it new some time in the 1960s) , and I know that *I* never have. So far so good! @Gen2 Man where do you get your rebuild kits? Maybe I should do this...

For getting under a vehicle I use my Quickjack. Much safer IMO and not hard to use at all.

 

I been using this jack from HF about 5 years now, works great. I needed and low profile for getting underneath my C7 Corvette.
The foot pedal is great for working in tight areas where there's not space handle travel.

 

Arcan 3-ton alum. Made in China.
HF 1.5 ton alum. Made in China, I presume. In Taco tool box.

 

Harbor Freight lol

 

Finally! Someone who gets it!

 

I just got this Daytona jack to replace my old Craftsman 3 ton. I needed something with more lift, otherwise the Craftsman served me well. (Had to replace the jack stands too)
The Daytona definitely falls into the category of Harbor Freight Tools that Don't Suck.

 

My favorite "floor jack" is my lift.

I realize most are not in their " forever house", but seriously, consider a 2 post hoist if you have the height. If not consider a scissor lift.

You will not be 35 for long. Your back will thank you when you hit 40.

I have both...and I know I'm lucky, but one of these styles will make your life so much easier if you enjoy wrenching on your vehicles.

I really like the scissors style lift the best. I toss a piece of plywood on it and I have an infinity adjustable work bench, plus it can be moved around very easy. I love moving it into the drive when the weather is nice. When it's collapsed, you can park over top of it and never even know it's there.(some insurance companies get wired if they know you have a car lift).

I've seen the scissor lifts for sale for as little as $500. Keep an eye out and you could score a deal.

 

Another QJ User here! I've only had mine since December but I'm pretty happy with it!

 

Another vote for the HF long reach low profile 3T. I have mine in orange.

 

Can't find any identification who manufactured it. The jack looks like something from the 60's or 70's...hydraulic action still works fine, appears quality made. You can let down the truck very gradually by turning the handle a small amount at a time to release the hydraulic cylinder. Only issue its heavy to move around.

 

I second the motion to get a lift. If you have the ceiling clearance to do it, (and MOST IMPORTANT, the slab thickness to safely support it) a lift will be the best $3,400 you will ever spend. And think of how much it will increase the merchantability and perceived value of your home when you go to sell it. Have the installers mount it as wide as its design will allow. This one's range was 107-138 inches wide. (You see those unused bolt holes in the top cross member? That's how the width is adjusted.) I went full wide and can park my boat's trailer between it, or on the lift, lift it up and have the space under it to use. A buddy of mine had one installed in his company's fab shop. He didn't specify how he wanted it spaced. They installed it too narrow. He can't even open the door of his F250 to get out! He is pissed.


Safety concerns: Make sure you have at least five inches of concrete in which to sink the lift's anchors. Concrete contractors can be stingy with the concrete when pouring a slab. Many four-inch house slabs are in reality closer to three inches. That's how they reduce their cost and increase their profits. If you are building a shop it pays to plan ahead and know where you will be mounting the lift. Have the architect or engineer specify a higher-grade concrete. If the slab is already poured then at least have the installer use the high-quality epoxy down the anchor holes, around the anchors on top of the slab, and under the lift's floor plates. When they drill the mounting holes you be there to measure the depth of the concrete. The epoxy is similar to the adhesive that car manufacturers use to glue on car doors. It adds an additional margin of safety in the event you do not have the vehicle's center of gravity between the lift's posts. Having the vehicle's CG forward or rearward of the center of the lift imparts torsional loads on the lift and its mountings. It may fail, with you under it. To this end, take your vehicles to a certified scale (like at a truck stop) and weigh first the front, then the back, then the whole vehicle. Do the math and determine its exact center of gravity. Measure back from the front axles to the CG point so you will know exactly how to spot the vehicle each time you put it on the lift. DO NOT purchase a lift that does not have a top cross member. If possible get one with base support bars that extend a couple of feet forward and backwards on each side of the post foot plate. IN ADDITION, you see those red support stands I store on the lift? Invest in a set. AS SOON AS you get the vehicle up put a stand under each corner of the vehicle. Screw the supports up TIGHT where they take much of the weight off the lift: this reduces torsional load on the lift and gives you greater safety while you are under it. Use the lift to lift, NOT SUPPORT. That's the job of the support stands. How many torsional load cycles is a lift mounted on only a three-inch slab going to endure before it tears out of the slab and crushes you? I go one step further, because I am terminally anal: I attach an inclinometer to the lift post (get one with magnets) so that I can see if it leans as I lift the vehicle. They will all deflect a couple of tenths of a degree one side or the other depending on where the CG is, but if you get readings that constantly exceed 0.50 degree of deflection, lower the vehicle and re-spot it. Can you tell I do risk management for a living?

Put a roll of paper towels on your floor jack handle. Keeps the handle from wacking the side of your vehicle when it springs up, as it will invariably do at some point.